From: krnet-bounces+johnbou=speakeasy.net@mylist.net on behalf of krnet-request@mylist.net Sent: Monday, December 08, 2003 12:00 PM To: krnet@mylist.net Subject: KRnet Digest, Vol 243, Issue 1 Send KRnet mailing list submissions to krnet@mylist.net To subscribe or unsubscribe via the World Wide Web, visit http://mylist.net/listinfo/krnet or, via email, send a message with subject or body 'help' to krnet-request@mylist.net You can reach the person managing the list at krnet-owner@mylist.net When replying, please edit your Subject line so it is more specific than "Re: Contents of KRnet digest..." Today's Topics: 1. Update - Door Support (Mark Jones) 2. Re: Update - Door Support 3. propellors for 100hp+!!! (Ross Evans) 4. Hatch spring (Patrick Driscoll) 5. Re: Hatch spring (Mark Jones) 6. Re: Update - Door Support (larry severson) 7. Re: Update - Door Support (Ameet Savant) 8. Re: propellors for 100hp+!!! (Phillip Matheson) 9. Varnish Removel/Rudder Peddles 10. Forgot my name! 11. Re: Varnish Removel/Rudder Peddles (Justin) 12. Re: weight and balance (Phil Matheson) 13. Re: rain and the kr 14. Re: Update - Door Support (Mark Jones) 15. Re: Update - Door Support (Mark Jones) 16. Re: Update - Door Support (Ameet Savant) 17. RE: Update - Door Support (Mark Jones) 18. EA82 (Peter Waijenberg) 19. Re: EA82 (David Mikesell) 20. TurtleDeck Weight (Scott Cable) 21. local builders? (Dan Root) 22. KR2S Questions (jacob coby) 23. Re: propellors for 100hp+!!! (Mark Langford) 24. (Kein Thema) 25. The solution of two problems ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Date: Sun, 7 Dec 2003 20:04:23 -0600 From: "Mark Jones" To: "KR Net" Subject: KR>Update - Door Support Message-ID: <000901c3bd2f$9a460ae0$6401a8c0@wi.rr.com> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable Precedence: list Message: 1 Hello All, Today I installed my gull wing door support. I have never seen this idea = used on an airplane before. Very simple and very effective. Here is the link: http://mywebpage.netscape.com/n886mj/spring.html Mark Jones (N886MJ) Wales, WI USA=20 E-mail me at flykr2s@wi.rr.com Visit my KR-2S CorvAIRCRAFT web site at =20 http://mywebpage.netscape.com/n886mj/homepage.html ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 8 Dec 2003 12:15:23 +1000 From: barryk@tpg.com.au To: KRnet Subject: Re: KR>Update - Door Support Message-ID: <1070849723.3fd3debbd802d@postoffice.tpg.com.au> In-Reply-To: <000901c3bd2f$9a460ae0$6401a8c0@wi.rr.com> References: <000901c3bd2f$9a460ae0$6401a8c0@wi.rr.com> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1 MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Transfer-Encoding: 8bit Precedence: list Message: 2 Now that is one simple but effective idear. Next time I have to fix my hatch support I'll try the spring. Barry Kruyssen kr2@bigpond.com Quoting Mark Jones : > Hello All, > Today I installed my gull wing door support. I have never seen this > idea used on an airplane before. Very simple and very effective. Here > is the link: http://mywebpage.netscape.com/n886mj/spring.html ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 08 Dec 2003 12:26:19 +1000 From: "Ross Evans" To: krnet@mylist.net Subject: KR>propellors for 100hp+!!! Message-ID: Content-Type: text/plain; format=flowed MIME-Version: 1.0 Precedence: list Message: 3 HI guys I am interested on what propellors are being used and what performance they are giving speed and climb and inrealation to fuel consumption I am using a type 4 engine from vw engine centre of 115 hp with reduction drive and fuel injection cheers Ross flykr2@hotmail.com _________________________________________________________________ Hot chart ringtones and polyphonics. Go to http://ninemsn.com.au/mobilemania/default.asp ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 7 Dec 2003 21:21:44 -0600 From: "Patrick Driscoll" To: "KR Mailing list" Subject: KR>Hatch spring Message-ID: <001201c3bd3a$688c8be0$2540d240@oemcomputer> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable Precedence: list Message: 4 Good looking installation Mark. Just be sure to wear a cap or hat when = flying. The first time you lean back and get your hair caught in that = spring, you'll wonder why you didn't think to put a thin plastic tube = over it Pat Driscoll patrick36@usfamily.net Saint Paul, MN ------ http://USFamily.Net/info - Unlimited Internet - From $8.99/mo! ------ ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 7 Dec 2003 21:39:15 -0600 From: "Mark Jones" To: "KRnet" Subject: Re: KR>Hatch spring Message-ID: <004501c3bd3c$dabb47e0$6401a8c0@wi.rr.com> References: <001201c3bd3a$688c8be0$2540d240@oemcomputer> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Precedence: list Message: 5 That's funny Pat...actually when the door is closed the spring folds towards the center of the cockpit and is not behind my head. But just in case, I may just put a sleeve over it as you suggest. Mark Jones (N886MJ) Wales, WI USA E-mail me at flykr2s@wi.rr.com Visit my KR-2S CorvAIRCRAFT web site at http://mywebpage.netscape.com/n886mj/homepage.html ----- Original Message ----- From: "Patrick Driscoll" To: "KR Mailing list" Sent: Sunday, December 07, 2003 9:21 PM Subject: KR>Hatch spring Good looking installation Mark. Just be sure to wear a cap or hat when flying. The first time you lean back and get your hair caught in that spring, you'll wonder why you didn't think to put a thin plastic tube over it Pat Driscoll patrick36@usfamily.net Saint Paul, MN ------ http://USFamily.Net/info - Unlimited Internet - From $8.99/mo! ------ _______________________________________________ see KRnet list details at http://www.krnet.org/instructions.html ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 07 Dec 2003 20:26:04 -0800 From: larry severson To: KRnet Subject: Re: KR>Update - Door Support Message-ID: <5.2.1.1.0.20031207202535.024b7a40@pop-server.socal.rr.com> In-Reply-To: <000901c3bd2f$9a460ae0$6401a8c0@wi.rr.com> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"; format=flowed MIME-Version: 1.0 Precedence: list Message: 6 Where did you get the spring? Larry Severson Fountain Valley, CA 92708 (714) 968-9852 larry2@socal.rr.com ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 7 Dec 2003 20:30:35 -0800 (PST) From: Ameet Savant To: KRnet Subject: Re: KR>Update - Door Support Message-ID: <20031208043035.89506.qmail@web60808.mail.yahoo.com> In-Reply-To: <000901c3bd2f$9a460ae0$6401a8c0@wi.rr.com> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii MIME-Version: 1.0 Precedence: list Message: 7 Mark, Nice looking installation. I do have a question: Since the spring is designed to take load only in tension, and actually buckle (bend) in compression. How do you control the fall/closing of the door? Nice workshop too! Ameet --- Mark Jones wrote: > Hello All, > Today I installed my gull wing door support. I have > never seen this idea used on an airplane before. > Very simple and very effective. > Here is the link: http://mywebpage.netscape.com/n886mj/spring.html > > Mark Jones (N886MJ) __________________________________ Do you Yahoo!? Free Pop-Up Blocker - Get it now http://companion.yahoo.com/ ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 8 Dec 2003 16:33:41 +1100 From: "Phillip Matheson" To: "KRnet" Subject: Re: KR>propellors for 100hp+!!! Message-ID: <004e01c3bd4c$d9e47ca0$9496dccb@ralf> References: Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Precedence: list Message: 8 Ross Try John Martindale at Coffs. He has a corvair in his KR2s but the prop size may help johnjane@chc.net.au Phil Matheson matheson@dodo.com.au Australia 61 3 58833588 See our VW Engines and home built Parts and Kits at: http://www.vw-engines.com/ www.homebuilt-aviation.com ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 8 Dec 2003 03:16:37 EST From: Boeing757mech1@aol.com To: krnet@mylist.net Subject: Kr>Varnish Removel/Rudder Peddles Message-ID: <2b.4c891039.2d058d65@aol.com> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII" MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Precedence: list Message: 9 While I was varnishing the insides of my wing spars I usually ended up with extra varnish. I resisted the temptation to use the extra varnish under the cockpit floor not knowing if I would need to glue in a piece of wood for something. I had a moment of weakness and varnished the first 2 bays. I now realized that my rudder peddles will mount close to the first cross member and I will probably have to add a chunk of wood for the mounting screws. How am I going to get that varnish off so I get a good glue joint? ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 8 Dec 2003 03:19:47 EST From: Boeing757mech1@aol.com To: krnet@mylist.net Subject: KR>Forgot my name! Message-ID: <66.3a1d9200.2d058e23@aol.com> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII" MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Precedence: list Message: 10 Chris Theroux Gilbert Az ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 8 Dec 2003 00:45:26 -0800 From: "Justin" To: "KRnet" Subject: Re: Kr>Varnish Removel/Rudder Peddles Message-ID: <004b01c3bd67$a05d3510$47da1818@computer> References: <2b.4c891039.2d058d65@aol.com> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Precedence: list Message: 11 Sand the wood down until you can't see the varnish anymore then use something like acetone. >From a previous post on how to remove varnish is this: I think the most difficult job you are going to have, is getting all that varnish off. Our boat was finished, and varnished. When I went to install the other things that go on top of the boat, I sanded off all the varnish. I then installed my first item. The next day, all I had was a gooey mess. T-88 would not stick, VinylEster would not stick, and Poly Fiber resin would not stick. Someone suggested that I sand and then wash with acetone or lacquer thinner. That worked, but it was a very time consuming and laborious job. As you sand the varnish off, it gets into the pours of the wood. If you could get it stripped with a varnish stripper that would not affect the glue, that might be the best way to start. >From Dan Heath ^ Justin N116JW www.geocities.com/attngrabber14/Home ----- Original Message ----- From: To: Sent: Monday, December 08, 2003 12:16 AM Subject: Kr>Varnish Removel/Rudder Peddles > While I was varnishing the insides of my wing spars I usually > ended up > with extra varnish. I resisted the temptation to use the extra varnish under > the cockpit floor not knowing if I would need to glue in a piece of > wood for > something. I had a moment of weakness and varnished the first 2 bays. > I now > realized that my rudder peddles will mount close to the first cross > member and I > will probably have to add a chunk of wood for the mounting screws. > > How am I going to get that varnish off so I get a good glue joint? > _______________________________________________ > see KRnet list details at http://www.krnet.org/instructions.html > ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 8 Dec 2003 21:29:45 +1100 From: "Phil Matheson" To: "KRnet" Subject: Re: KR>weight and balance Message-ID: <003301c3bd76$4a00e8b0$8596dccb@Office> References: <3.0.6.32.20031129225445.007fd710@pop.midwest.net> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Precedence: list Message: 12 If you use a good set of scales to weigh the aircraft and get an accurate measurement to different points on the aircraft, you can do the same thing with a pencil and paper in the comfort of your home. :-) -------------------------------------------------- Larry. I'm no mathematician, but I have to do it that way anyway, I think for a CofA. But I'm a practical man and would like to see it balanced with my eyes and not only by a pencil Phil Matheson matheson@dodo.com.au VH-PKR ( reserved) 61 3 58833588 See our VW Engines and Home built web page at http://www.vw-engines.com/ www.homebuilt-aviation.com/ ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 08 Dec 2003 06:20:11 -0500 From: AviationMech@aol.com To: krnet@mylist.net (KRnet) Subject: Re: KR>rain and the kr Message-ID: <7D4FDC35.6EF23DB2.110167FC@aol.com> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=iso-8859-1 MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Transfer-Encoding: 8bit Precedence: list Message: 13 I have flown in the rain and would say that in light rain my onyl concern was to stay dry as I did not have the front of the canopy sealed suffiently. I do not make it a practice to go out in the rain and if I see a cell off in the distance I will go around the main body of water. Light rain does not affect my KR at all. Orma N110LR 1984 to Present ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 8 Dec 2003 06:08:26 -0600 From: "Mark Jones" To: "KRnet" Subject: Re: KR>Update - Door Support Message-ID: <000801c3bd83$fc3e1b80$6401a8c0@wi.rr.com> References: <5.2.1.1.0.20031207202535.024b7a40@pop-server.socal.rr.com> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Precedence: list Message: 14 I bought it at West Marine for $15.00. I comes with stainless steel brackets. I would thing any major marine supplier would carry these hatch supports. Mark Jones (N886MJ) Wales, WI USA E-mail me at flykr2s@wi.rr.com Visit my KR-2S CorvAIRCRAFT web site at http://mywebpage.netscape.com/n886mj/homepage.html ----- Original Message ----- From: "larry severson" To: "KRnet" Sent: Sunday, December 07, 2003 10:26 PM Subject: Re: KR>Update - Door Support > Where did you get the spring? > > Larry Severson > Fountain Valley, CA 92708 > (714) 968-9852 > larry2@socal.rr.com > > > _______________________________________________ > see KRnet list details at http://www.krnet.org/instructions.html ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 8 Dec 2003 06:09:54 -0600 From: "Mark Jones" To: "KRnet" Subject: Re: KR>Update - Door Support Message-ID: <000e01c3bd84$311e2de0$6401a8c0@wi.rr.com> References: <20031208043035.89506.qmail@web60808.mail.yahoo.com> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Precedence: list Message: 15 The spring will not collapse unless you push it in the center. Mark Jones (N886MJ) Wales, WI USA E-mail me at flykr2s@wi.rr.com Visit my KR-2S CorvAIRCRAFT web site at http://mywebpage.netscape.com/n886mj/homepage.html ----- Original Message ----- From: "Ameet Savant" To: "KRnet" Sent: Sunday, December 07, 2003 10:30 PM Subject: Re: KR>Update - Door Support > Mark, > > Nice looking installation. I do have a question: > > Since the spring is designed to take load only in > tension, and actually buckle (bend) in compression. > How do you control the fall/closing of the door? > > Nice workshop too! > > Ameet > --- Mark Jones wrote: > > Hello All, > > Today I installed my gull wing door support. I have > > never seen this idea used on an airplane before. > > Very simple and very effective. > > Here is the link: http://mywebpage.netscape.com/n886mj/spring.html > > > > Mark Jones (N886MJ) > > > __________________________________ > Do you Yahoo!? > Free Pop-Up Blocker - Get it now > http://companion.yahoo.com/ > > _______________________________________________ > see KRnet list details at http://www.krnet.org/instructions.html > ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 8 Dec 2003 06:00:26 -0800 (PST) From: Ameet Savant To: KRnet Subject: Re: KR>Update - Door Support Message-ID: <20031208140026.18157.qmail@web60804.mail.yahoo.com> In-Reply-To: <000e01c3bd84$311e2de0$6401a8c0@wi.rr.com> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii MIME-Version: 1.0 Precedence: list Message: 16 Mark, What would happen if the canopy door is open and a gust of wind hits it? Will it still hold? Considering the door is hinged (almost all doors are) the force acting on the spring while closing is not parallel to the axis of the spring. Chances are that the inward (towards the hinge) or outward (away from the hinge) component of the force exerted by the wind will push the spring in one of the directions and the door will fall. The question is how much wind force? It can be calculated by analyzing your setup, weight of the door etc... This is my opinion and just that. Am I missing something? (I must be.) Thanks Ameet --- Mark Jones wrote: > The spring will not collapse unless you push it in > the center. > > Mark Jones (N886MJ) > > > Mark, > > How do you control the fall/closing of the door? > > Ameet > > --- Mark Jones wrote: > > > http://mywebpage.netscape.com/n886mj/spring.html > > > > > > Mark Jones (N886MJ) __________________________________ Do you Yahoo!? Free Pop-Up Blocker - Get it now http://companion.yahoo.com/ ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 8 Dec 2003 08:28:42 -0600 From: Mark Jones To: KR Net Subject: RE: KR>Update - Door Support Message-ID: <370D915E4564D611B0530050DABB9FC25DA80B@SIC-EXCHANGE> Content-Type: text/plain MIME-Version: 1.0 Precedence: list Message: 17 Ameet, The spring is designed to withstand such forces. These are designed (not off the shelf standard springs) to be used on marine applications where wind and movement of the boat both apply forces to the spring. These come in various sizes depending on the size of the hatch to be held open. I actually installed an oversized one as a margin of safety. As a test after the installation was done, I applied force to the open door, trying to get the spring to collapse, to the point where the door hinges were beginning to lift off the frame. I do not think any wind will apply the force which I applied. These springs will not collapse unless you push on the center causing it to bend. Mark Jones Mueller Sales Corporation Ph: 262-781-5310 Fax:262-781-4130 E-mail: mjones@muellersales.com Web: www.muellersales.com >ORIGINAL MESSAGE >What would happen if the canopy door is open and a >gust of wind hits it? Will it still hold? Considering >the door is hinged (almost all doors are) the force >acting on the spring while closing is not parallel to >the axis of the spring. Chances are that the inward >(towards the hinge) or outward (away from the hinge) >component of the force exerted by the wind will push >the spring in one of the directions and the door will >fall. The question is how much wind force? It can be calculated by >analyzing your setup, weight of the door etc... >This is my opinion and just that. Am I missing >something? (I must be.) >Thanks >Ameet ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 8 Dec 2003 06:55:08 -0800 (PST) From: Peter Waijenberg To: KRnet Subject: KR>EA82 Message-ID: <20031208145508.61389.qmail@web11305.mail.yahoo.com> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii MIME-Version: 1.0 Precedence: list Message: 18 Does anybody know if the Subaru EA82 engine is suitable for the KR2S. I have been offered one that is brand new. It is still on the shelfe and never been used. I would welcome all comments and remarks. Thank you, Peter Waijenberg. __________________________________ Do you Yahoo!? New Yahoo! Photos - easier uploading and sharing. http://photos.yahoo.com/ ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 8 Dec 2003 07:10:22 -0800 From: "David Mikesell" To: "KRnet" Subject: Re: KR>EA82 Message-ID: <006c01c3bd9d$673445e0$03fea8c0@davids> References: <20031208145508.61389.qmail@web11305.mail.yahoo.com> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Precedence: list Message: 19 It is to heavy for the hp. The EA81 comes in the 70hp and the EA81 JDM is 100hp, the EA82 is 80hp at almost twice the weight of the EA81, the EJ22 weighs the same as the EA82 at 100hp. David Mikesell 23597 N. Hwy 99 Acampo, CA 95220 209-609-8774 skyguynca@skyguynca.com www.skyguynca.com ----- Original Message ----- From: "Peter Waijenberg" To: "KRnet" Sent: Monday, December 08, 2003 6:55 AM Subject: KR>EA82 > Does anybody know if the Subaru EA82 engine is > suitable for the KR2S. I have been offered one that is > brand new. It is still on the shelfe and never been > used. I would welcome all comments and remarks. > > Thank you, > > Peter Waijenberg. > > __________________________________ > Do you Yahoo!? > New Yahoo! Photos - easier uploading and sharing. > http://photos.yahoo.com/ > > _______________________________________________ > see KRnet list details at http://www.krnet.org/instructions.html ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 8 Dec 2003 09:26:48 -0800 (PST) From: Scott Cable To: KR builders and pilots Subject: KR>TurtleDeck Weight Message-ID: <20031208172648.19618.qmail@web40806.mail.yahoo.com> In-Reply-To: <20031029222656.94904.qmail@web40807.mail.yahoo.com> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii MIME-Version: 1.0 Precedence: list Message: 20 Netters, (sorry about the length) Well, I'm about 90% done with my turtledeck, spent most of Sunday working on, finally went to bed at 11:30 pm with it downstairs doing it's 24 hour cure thing. I'm very pleased with the results, I'd venture a guess that my turtledeck weighs less than 2 pounds? Does anyone have a weight of a Rand Robinson Turtledeck and could weigh it for comparison? Here's how I did mine: My turtledeck is constructed using foam to create the shape, the laying up an outerskin. After the outer skin was cured, I removed it, and carved 4 Hat Stiffeners into each "frame" location, and also longitudinally along the centerline. I used a router ( 3 passes each hat), and then created a sanding block tool that was the final shape of the hat. I then laid Duct tape down into each of the hat cavities, then used heavy 8 mil plastic and traced the hat trims onto the plastic. I then cut 3 inch BID tape to length, and squeegied West System epoxy into the BID. I then transferred the lay-up onto the Foam tool, and relieved the plies wherever the cross former layups crossed BL 0.0 hat. Then laid the BL 0.0 down relieving the layup wherever it was crossed also. I then mixed up some cotton flox, and placed a 1/2 inch wide CF "flange" along the perimeter of each Hat. Prior to doing any of the lay-ups, I prepped the outerskin, by marking on the outside where the duct tape was laid. I then used 60 grit paper to prep and break the glaze of the underside where it would bond with the hats. I then wiped it clean with Acetone. After the perimeter of flox was done, I placed the outer skin down over the hats, and placed bungee cords at each hat location. I then allowed the whole turtledeck to cure. Several hours later, I checked the excess resin in the mixing cup, and checked the remaining CF. Both were rock hard. I then popped the co-cured / co-bonded hat stiffened turtledeck off of the foam "plug". I'm excited that the results are nothing short of fantastic! There is no foam that remains with the completed part, is extremely stiff, and yet very lightweight. I then popped the foam off of the airframe and took the whole thing downstairs for final cure (at least 24 hours). Things I learned during this process: 1.) The Frost King Window film makes an excellent release film. It's readily available, and inexpensive. Works well with complex curvature. 2.) I really, really like the West System for laminating. Wets out very well, stable working time and doesn't have a horrible odor. (still wear your mask and gloves). 3.) Hat stiffeners offer a great deal of stiffness, at a fraction of weight. 4.) Laying down Duct Tape for a release ply takes a great deal of time to do properly. Take your time, and work in small sections. I resorted to the duct tape for the hats, did several tests of with the Window film in the hat cavitys, each one failed. Too complex a shape for the window film to "shrink" into. 5.) Everywhere Cotton flox had been laid, were little "blisters" of epoxy working it's way through the outer skin. Proving that I had good bonding of the hat stiffeners to the outer skin. ===== Scott Cable KR-2S # 735 Wright City, MO s2cable1@yahoo.com __________________________________ Do you Yahoo!? New Yahoo! Photos - easier uploading and sharing. http://photos.yahoo.com/ ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 8 Dec 2003 09:38:42 -0800 From: Dan Root To: krnet@mylist.net Subject: KR>local builders? Message-ID: Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii" ; format="flowed" MIME-Version: 1.0 Precedence: list Message: 21 After viewing a couple of very nice projects, it's become abundantly clear why no one has offered a test ride. What's worse, my sweetie and I can't both fit in an RV simultaneously, unless at least one of us loses a hundred pounds. That's not going to happen anytime soon. I may still acquire a KR to fly solo, but I've decided to build something larger that my wife and I can enjoy together. In the meantime, I still need a decent carburetor for my HAPI 1835. My old POSA just isn't getting it done, so I'm leaning toward an EFS-2. Any help out there? I wouldn't mind buying a used one if anyone's got one lying around, but I may have to bite the bullet on a new one. -- Daniel E. Root root1@llnl.gov KR2s builder wannabee ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 8 Dec 2003 09:55:31 -0800 (PST) From: jacob coby To: krnet@mylist.net Subject: KR>KR2S Questions Message-ID: <20031208175531.64663.qmail@web12002.mail.yahoo.com> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii MIME-Version: 1.0 Precedence: list Message: 22 Hi all, I'm thinking of building a KR-2S, and while I wait for the info-pack to arrive, I have a couple of questions. I apologize if these have all been answered somewhere else, though I've followed just about every link on krnet. - Is the KR-2S more stable/less twitchy in pitch? I've read that the KR-2 requires a light touch ("fly by thought"). Most of my flight time is in a Cessna 172, and I'm thinking about leaving a project known to be sensitive in pitch (a Polliwagen), I'd like something that I can trim for hands off flying. - How well does the tri-gear KR-2S handle grass strips? - What kind of performance can I realistically expect from the KR-2S with a 75hp revmaster engine? - I'm a bit scared of wood composite construction. Is there really anything to be worried about? I'm thinking about glue life, fatigue, warping/internal stresses from moisture; things like that. - The AS504x airfoil: how does it compare to the RAF-48 airfoil in the real world? From what I understand, its an all around higher performance airfoil, while still maintaining the same sort of flight characteristics as the RAF48. Are there any downsides to this airfoil? From what I understand, NLF airfoils are very finicky to surface irregularities. - Is the seat:controls adjustable in any way? From what I'm seeing, the seat is glassed into place, and you pick rudder and stick positioning based on where you feel comfortable with. - What is a real-world cost to build for the KR-2S? I have the engine and VFR instruments (minus navradio) already. - Is the KR-2S aerobatic-capable (with proper oil and fuel arrangements)? I've seen mention of the KR-2 handling +6 Gs. - Is anyone in the Triad, NC (Winston-Salem, Greensboro, High-Point) area building one or have one that flys? I live in Belews Creek, and would like to stop by and take a look. Thanks in advance, -Jacob __________________________________ Do you Yahoo!? New Yahoo! Photos - easier uploading and sharing. http://photos.yahoo.com/ ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 8 Dec 2003 12:04:40 -0600 From: "Mark Langford" To: "KRnet" Subject: Re: KR>propellors for 100hp+!!! Message-ID: <005101c3bdb5$c0487490$5e0ca58c@tbe.com> References: Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Precedence: list Message: 23 Ross Evans wrote: > HI guys I am interested on what propellors are being used and what > performance they are giving speed and climb and inrealation to fuel > consumption I am using a type 4 engine from vw engine centre of 115 hp with > reduction drive and fuel injection We're really going to need to know what the reduction ratio is (or the actual prop RPM at max power) to begin to answer this. Ground clearance is also a factor in permissible diameter. Still, there aren't many guys on this list that are already flying with 115 hp engines, so you might not actually get an answer. I can tell you that Steve Makish has a Corvair that's probably putting out right at 115 hp, and a 52 x 66 Sterba prop was too much for it. He's gone to a Prince P-tip of some sort, which I'll try to find out the specs on... Mark Langford, Huntsville, AL N56ML at hiwaay.net see KR2S project N56ML at http://home.hiwaay.net/~langford ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 8 Dec 2003 14:00:35 EST From: KR2SL@aol.com To: krnet@mylist.net Subject: KR>(Kein Thema) Message-ID: Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII" MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Precedence: list Message: 24 Hi Kr -family,my name is herbert fuerle from germany-building a kr2s with the new airfoil(16%) and I'm reading the mails nearly twice a day but it's not necessary for me to give helpful comments due to my bad english.So i have yet the problem to get out of the list.can anybody tell me,how can I do this? my second problem is to contact Mark Langford.I've tryied approximatly three times and sent pic's to him to upgrade my side he installed for me.It seems I do something wrong with the address I use.Can someone help me to solute my problem? many thanks herbert ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 8 Dec 2003 14:04:47 EST From: KR2SL@aol.com To: krnet@mylist.net Subject: KR>The solution of two problems Message-ID: <4b.379b785e.2d06254f@aol.com> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII" MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Precedence: list Message: 25 Hi Kr -family,my name is herbert fuerle from germany-building a kr2s with the new airfoil(16%) and I'm reading the mails nearly twice a day but it's not necessary for me to give helpful comments due to my bad english.So i have yet the problem to get out of the list.can anybody tell me,how can I do this? my second problem is to contact Mark Langford.I've tryied approximatly three times and sent pic's to him to upgrade my side he installed for me.It seems I do something wrong with the address I use.Can someone help me to solute my problem? many thanks herbert ------------------------------ _______________________________________________ See KRnet list details at http://www.krnet.org/instructions.html End of KRnet Digest, Vol 243, Issue 1 *************************************