From: krnet-bounces@mylist.net on behalf of krnet-request@mylist.net Sent: Wednesday, December 24, 2003 7:18 AM To: krnet@mylist.net Subject: KRnet Digest, Vol 259, Issue 1 Send KRnet mailing list submissions to krnet@mylist.net To subscribe or unsubscribe via the World Wide Web, visit http://mylist.net/listinfo/krnet or, via email, send a message with subject or body 'help' to krnet-request@mylist.net You can reach the person managing the list at krnet-owner@mylist.net When replying, please edit your Subject line so it is more specific than "Re: Contents of KRnet digest..." Today's Topics: 1. mounting fore deck/tank (larry severson) 2. Starting boat layout (Bernard McLean Sr) 3. Re: This makes any work on the tank impossible (Dan Heath) 4. RE: Canopy Release Handles (Dana Overall) 5. Re: mounting fore deck/tank (Louis Staalberg) 6. Starting boat layout (Larry A Capps) 7. Re: mounting fore deck/tank (Scott Cable) 8. Re: mounting fore deck/tank (Mark Jones) 9. LED Rudder Nav Light (Mark Jones) 10. Re: flight report 11. Canopy Release Handles (larry flesner) 12. 90K panel? (larry flesner) 13. RE: pictures (larry flesner) 14. Hughs glue (larry flesner) 15. Re: I would trailer the KR home! (Lee) 16. Re: CHT sensor location on VW 17. More on pitot/static error (Martindale Family) 18. Canopy release and latches. (larry flesner) 19. 0-200 question (larry flesner) 20. 0-200 question-correction (larry flesner) ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Date: Tue, 23 Dec 2003 12:57:37 -0800 From: larry severson To: KRnet Subject: KR>mounting fore deck/tank Message-ID: <5.2.1.1.0.20031223125545.02548a10@pop-server.socal.rr.com> In-Reply-To: <5.2.1.1.0.20031223111824.025423b8@pop-server.socal.rr.com> References: <20031223145155.50127.qmail@web40806.mail.yahoo.com> <20031223045334.39811.qmail@web40805.mail.yahoo.com> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"; format=flowed MIME-Version: 1.0 Precedence: list Message: 1 The manual calls for mounting the fore deck/tank permanently with 2 ply 2" BID tape. This makes any work on the tank impossible. Suggestions? Larry Severson Fountain Valley, CA 92708 (714) 968-9852 larry2@socal.rr.com ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 23 Dec 2003 15:16:54 -0600 From: Bernard McLean Sr To: krnet@mylist.net Subject: KR>Starting boat layout Message-ID: <3FE8B0C6.9030502@verizon.net> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii; format=flowed MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Precedence: list Message: 2 I hope my questions aren't too basic for the group but.... After an approximate 15 year lay off, I'm resuming construction on my KR2. I'm laying out the completed fuselage sides on the work table for "boat" assembly and am concerned that if I follow the dimensions called for by the plans for the belly cross members (especially at station C) , I'm going to have a huge pile of tooth picks on my hands! Does it make sense to dampen the fuselage sides to make them more pliable (they're 15 years old and have been carefully wrapped and kept in a fairly humid basement for the past 15 years), or should I just bite the bullet and follow the plans to the letter and hope for no explosions? I'm going to use T-88 epoxy for the balance of the project. I'd appreciate any input the list can provide. Happy Holidays from Poplar Grove IL Bernie McLean ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 23 Dec 2003 16:24:38 -0500 (Eastern Standard Time) From: "Dan Heath" To: "krnet@mylist.net" Subject: Re: KR>This makes any work on the tank impossible Message-ID: <3FE8B296.00000F.02576@Computer> References: <5.2.1.1.0.20031223125545.02548a10@pop-server.socal.rr.com> Content-Type: Text/Plain; charset="iso-8859-1" MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable Precedence: list Message: 3 Larry,=0D =0D That is the way it is, unless you want to make a removable deck and tank like Bobby Muse did. If you have not yet built your tank, you could make one out of aluminum and it would be removable as it would be attached wit= h bolts. =0D =0D See N64KR at http://KR-Builder.org - Then click on the pics=0D =0D Daniel R. Heath - Columbia, SC=0D =0D DanRH@KR-Builder.org=0D =0D See you in Mt. Vernon - 2004 - KR Gathering=0D =0D See our EAA Chapter 242 at http://EAA242.org=0D =20From bo124rs@hotmail.com Tue Dec 23 14:57:15 2003 Received: from bay13-f12.bay13.hotmail.com ([64.4.31.12] helo=hotmail.com) by lizard.esosoft.net with esmtp (Exim 3.36 #1) id 1AYvSk-0002kM-00 for krnet@mylist.net; Tue, 23 Dec 2003 14:57:14 -0800 Received: from mail pickup service by hotmail.com with Microsoft SMTPSVC; Tue, 23 Dec 2003 14:46:03 -0800 Received: from 152.163.253.1 by by13fd.bay13.hotmail.msn.com with HTTP; Tue, 23 Dec 2003 22:46:03 GMT X-Originating-IP: [152.163.253.1] X-Originating-Email: [bo124rs@hotmail.com] X-Sender: bo124rs@hotmail.com From: "Dana Overall" To: krnet@mylist.net Bcc: Subject: RE: KR>Canopy Release Handles Date: Tue, 23 Dec 2003 17:46:03 -0500 Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; format=flowed Message-ID: X-OriginalArrivalTime: 23 Dec 2003 22:46:03.0512 (UTC) FILETIME=[8B49A780:01C3C9A6] X-BeenThere: krnet@mylist.net X-Mailman-Version: 2.1b3 Precedence: list Reply-To: KRnet List-Id: KRnet List-Post: List-Subscribe: , List-Unsubscribe: , List-Archive: List-Help: Dana Overall Richmond, KY RV-7 slider, Imron black, "Black Magic" Finish kit Buying Instruments. Hangar flying my Dynon. http://rvflying.tripod.com do not archive >From: Scott Cable >Reply-To: KRnet >To: krnet@mylist.net >Subject: KR>Canopy Release Handles >Date: Tue, 23 Dec 2003 10:54:09 -0800 (PST) > >Netters, >I'm planning on using 4 each cable operated 747 >overhead compartment door latches mounted to the upper longerons on >aluminum angle brackets and I have some questions involving Canopy >Release Handles. > >1.) Is it required / advisable for an external canopy >release handle. > >2.) Is there a FAA requirement for labeling the canopy Release? > >3.) I've looked throughout the AS&S, and Wicks >catalogs and cannot find anything for canopy release >handles >What are most KR's Fitted with? > >4.) Flush Mounted? I understand that a protruding >handle can cause a buffet affecting the flight characteristics. > >5>) Who Supplies the Handles? > > > >===== >Scott Cable >KR-2S # 735 >Wright City, MO >s2cable1@yahoo.com > >__________________________________ >Do you Yahoo!? >New Yahoo! Photos - easier uploading and sharing. >http://photos.yahoo.com/ > >_______________________________________________ >see KRnet list details at http://www.krnet.org/instructions.html _________________________________________________________________ Take advantage of our limited-time introductory offer for dial-up Internet access. http://join.msn.com/?page=dept/dialup ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 23 Dec 2003 17:55:20 -0500 From: "Dana Overall" To: krnet@mylist.net Subject: RE: KR>Canopy Release Handles Message-ID: Content-Type: text/plain; format=flowed MIME-Version: 1.0 Precedence: list Message: 4 Scott, I've looked over the FAR's to satisfy my mind concerning this issue. I can find anything where an external release mechanism is either required or a requirement for it to be labelled either inside or outside. With that said, if you use a flush mounted mechanism of your own design, a significant safety factor would be inherent in labelling it's use for those uniformed as to it's operation. In an airplane I am current very familiar with, a canopy jettison mechanism is standard equipment for the tipper canopy but not the slider. A lot of people don't install it on the tipper though. I have seen some labelled internally and some not. The outside release handle on the slider is not labelled. I know a real good URL showing a real simple near flush external mechanism that would cost $20 to manufacture. If you, or anyone is interest, email me off the KRNet as this is not standard KR equipment. If it nice and easy though. I can also post a couple pics on my web directory and provide you with the URL showing how one I am real familiar with works. Either would be easy to manufacture to suit the KR need. On my KR, I can't believe I did this but it worked, I installed on the side of the fuselage, a 152 hinged oil door. Push the button reach in and "release the hounds"......my bad I got carried away, release the internal locking mechanism. This was for the standard side opening KR canopy. Dana Overall 1999 & 2000 National KR Gathering host Richmond, KY RV-7 slider, Imron black, "Black Magic" Finish kit Buying Instruments. Hangar flying my Dynon. http://rvflying.tripod.com do not archive _________________________________________________________________ Get reliable dial-up Internet access now with our limited-time introductory offer. http://join.msn.com/?page=dept/dialup ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 23 Dec 2003 16:25:14 -0700 From: "Louis Staalberg" To: "KRnet" Subject: Re: KR>mounting fore deck/tank Message-ID: <000501c3c9ac$29964e20$0300a8c0@CenterDesk> References: <20031223145155.50127.qmail@web40806.mail.yahoo.com> <20031223045334.39811.qmail@web40805.mail.yahoo.com> <5.2.1.1.0.20031223125545.02548a10@pop-server.socal.rr.com> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Precedence: list Message: 5 Payson, Arizona N9FL@cybertrails.com ----- Original Message ----- From: "larry severson" To: "KRnet" Sent: Tuesday, December 23, 2003 1:57 PM Subject: KR>mounting fore deck/tank > The manual calls for mounting the fore deck/tank permanently with 2 > ply 2" > BID tape. This makes any work on the tank impossible. Suggestions? Yes!... Don't do it! I am at this very moment installing my RR bought forward deck. It will be removable. The sides will attach to the longerons with piano hinges (rolled type). I have constructed a panel, roughly the same size as the vertical part of the RR forward deck. It has two "tails" going down on each side all the way to the forward spar. It is glued to each side of the fuselage and holes are cut out for the back of the instruments. The panel is made from 1/4 inch foam with two layers of fiberglass on each side. The forward deck (vert. part) goes over the front of this panel (front from pilots view)and is attached to the panel with rubber shock mounts. The back of the panel has a piece of plywood glued on to it with nuts ( the spiky types, floxed in position). All of the vertical part of the RR forward deck is cut off except about 2 inch following the contour of the top of the deck. The instrument panel has been made from a piece of 0.060 aluminum and will attach to the shock mounts (also called isolator mounts). In order to remove the forward deck I will have to unscrew the aluminum instrument panel from the shock mounts, loosen the shock mounts that hold the left over piece of the forward deck to the panel, pull the two piano hinges and unscrew the front of the forward deck. This way I have complete access to the back of the instrument panel, rudder paddles, brakes, fuel tank (which I will also make removable) and (in my case) access the the retractable nose wheel. Right now the epoxy is drying but later on , I could make some pictures. Probably too late for you but...it is nice to have access to that whole area. Merry Christmas to all. Louis Staalberg N9FL@cybertrails.com Payson, Arizona. ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 23 Dec 2003 17:43:10 -0600 From: "Larry A Capps" To: "'KRnet'" Subject: KR>Starting boat layout Message-ID: <000701c3c9ae$86ae2cc0$0700a8c0@schpankme> In-Reply-To: <3FE8B0C6.9030502@verizon.net> Content-Type: multipart/mixed; boundary="----=_NextPart_000_0008_01C3C97C.3C13BCC0" MIME-Version: 1.0 Precedence: list Message: 6 This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_0008_01C3C97C.3C13BCC0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Hello Bernie, I'd recommend a few redesigns for the KR2-S (see attached)! Best Regards, Larry A Capps Naperville, IL -----Original Message----- From: krnet-bounces@mylist.net [mailto:krnet-bounces@mylist.net]On Behalf Of Bernard McLean Sr Sent: Tuesday, December 23, 2003 3:17 PM To: krnet@mylist.net Subject: KR>Starting boat layout I hope my questions aren't too basic for the group but.... After an approximate 15 year lay off, I'm resuming construction on my KR2. I'm laying out the completed fuselage sides on the work table for "boat" assembly and am concerned that if I follow the dimensions called for by the plans for the belly cross members (especially at station C) , I'm going to have a huge pile of tooth picks on my hands! Does it make sense to dampen the fuselage sides to make them more pliable (they're 15 years old and have been carefully wrapped and kept in a fairly humid basement for the past 15 years), or should I just bite the bullet and follow the plans to the letter and hope for no explosions? I'm going to use T-88 epoxy for the balance of the project. I'd appreciate any input the list can provide. Happy Holidays from Poplar Grove IL Bernie McLean ------=_NextPart_000_0008_01C3C97C.3C13BCC0-- ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 23 Dec 2003 15:46:53 -0800 (PST) From: Scott Cable To: KRnet Subject: Re: KR>mounting fore deck/tank Message-ID: <20031223234653.90182.qmail@web40811.mail.yahoo.com> In-Reply-To: <000501c3c9ac$29964e20$0300a8c0@CenterDesk> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii MIME-Version: 1.0 Precedence: list Message: 7 > ----- Original Message ----- > From: "larry severson" > To: "KRnet" > Sent: Tuesday, December 23, 2003 1:57 PM > Subject: KR>mounting fore deck/tank The manual calls for mounting the fore deck/tank > permanently with 2 ply > 2" > > BID tape. This makes any work on the tank > impossible. Suggestions? I'll Echo what Louis said: Don't do it. How are you planning on hinging you canopy? You may want to consider that also. If you'll notice in the plans, RR suggests that the Instrument Panel be removable. If you do that, then all of you electrical connections AND the Pitot-Static lines would have to be disconnected. If you make the panel permanent and the forward deck removable,in order to service the forward tank, you'd only disturb the fuel line(s) and fuel sending wires. You'll also have far greater access to the rudder pedals, master cylinders, and the forward side of the Instrument Panel. ===== Scott Cable KR-2S # 735 Wright City, MO s2cable1@yahoo.com __________________________________ Do you Yahoo!? New Yahoo! Photos - easier uploading and sharing. http://photos.yahoo.com/ ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 23 Dec 2003 18:47:21 -0600 From: "Mark Jones" To: "KRnet" Subject: Re: KR>mounting fore deck/tank Message-ID: <006d01c3c9b7$a1642980$6401a8c0@wi.rr.com> References: <20031223234653.90182.qmail@web40811.mail.yahoo.com> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Precedence: list Message: 8 I built a hood out of my forward deck. It gives me access to everything from the instrument panel to the firewall. There will also be a small aluminum header tank mounted under that hood. here is the link: http://mywebpage.netscape.com/n886mj/hood.html Mark Jones (N886MJ) Wales, WI USA E-mail me at flykr2s@wi.rr.com Visit my KR-2S CorvAIRCRAFT web site at http://mywebpage.netscape.com/n886mj/homepage.html ----- Original Message ----- From: "Scott Cable" > > ----- Original Message ----- > > From: "larry severson" > The manual calls for mounting the fore deck/tank > > permanently with 2 ply > > 2" > > > BID tape. This makes any work on the tank > > impossible. Suggestions? > I'll Echo what Louis said: Don't do it. > How are you planning on hinging you canopy? > You may want to consider that also. > If you'll notice in the plans, RR suggests that the Instrument Panel > be removable. If you do that, then all of you electrical connections > AND the Pitot-Static lines would have to be disconnected. If you make > the panel permanent and the forward deck removable,in > order to service the forward tank, you'd only disturb > the fuel line(s) and fuel sending wires. You'll also > have far greater access to the rudder pedals, master > cylinders, and the forward side of the Instrument > Panel. > ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 23 Dec 2003 19:46:56 -0600 From: "Mark Jones" To: "KR Net" Subject: KR>LED Rudder Nav Light Message-ID: <008c01c3c9bf$d0d40c00$6401a8c0@wi.rr.com> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable Precedence: list Message: 9 I am working on finishing up my rudder and the nav light. Here is a link = to some photos showing how I am doing the rudder nav light. = http://mywebpage.netscape.com/n886mj/LEDTail.html Mark Jones (N886MJ) Wales, WI USA=20 E-mail me at flykr2s@wi.rr.com Visit my KR-2S CorvAIRCRAFT web site at =20 http://mywebpage.netscape.com/n886mj/homepage.html ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 23 Dec 2003 21:13:37 EST From: Raybeth321@wmconnect.com To: krnet@mylist.net Subject: Re: KR>flight report Message-ID: <148.1f4c2346.2d1a5051@wmconnect.com> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII" MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Precedence: list Message: 10 Congratulations, Larry. It must be a great feeling. I hope to be there next Summer Ray Goree ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 23 Dec 2003 20:50:28 -0600 From: larry flesner To: KRnet Subject: KR>Canopy Release Handles Message-ID: <3.0.6.32.20031223205028.007e5740@pop.midwest.net> In-Reply-To: <20031223185409.37521.qmail@web40804.mail.yahoo.com> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii" MIME-Version: 1.0 Precedence: list Message: 11 >I'm planning on using 4 each cable operated 747 >overhead compartment door latches mounted to the upper longerons on >aluminum angle brackets and I have some questions involving Canopy >Release Handles. > >1.) Is it required / advisable for an external canopy >release handle. +++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++ Required - ??? Advisable - YES ++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++ >2.) Is there a FAA requirement for labeling the canopy Release? ++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++ My inspector wanted it labeled and wrote it up as something I had to correct. I attached an "open" and "closed" label. +++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++ 3.) I've looked throughout the AS&S, and Wicks >catalogs and cannot find anything for canopy release >handles >What are most KR's Fitted with? ++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++ Rand has some but they have no exterior release. +++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++ > >4.) Flush Mounted? I understand that a protruding >handle can cause a buffet affecting the flight >characteristics. >Scott Cable +++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++ Those were a flat plate type handle that was in line with the elevator. I've not noticed any buffeting from mine. Pictures taken of my setup are on my site at KRnet. Jennette Rand liked it so well she had her daughter take a picture of it when they visited. It includes about $15 material cost (max) and could be inclosed if one wants to take the time. It works flawlessly. A friend of mine did about 20 minutes of welding to build it. I have nothing attached to the top longeron to grab your flesh or tear you clothes as you enter or exit. Larry Flesner ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 23 Dec 2003 20:51:23 -0600 From: larry flesner To: KRnet Subject: KR>90K panel? Message-ID: <3.0.6.32.20031223205123.007e5740@pop.midwest.net> In-Reply-To: <5.2.1.1.0.20031223090055.024e1f90@pop-server.socal.rr.com> References: <3.0.6.32.20031222201846.008b6760@pop.midwest.net> <5.2.1.1.0.20031222151432.024f4a10@pop-server.socal.rr.com> <3FE77EBD.F20E76CC@arctic.net> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii" MIME-Version: 1.0 Precedence: list Message: 12 >>I'd like to hear more about that 90K worth of electronics in a >>KR. I can't imagine it was able to fly! :-) >>Larry Flesner +++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++ >Jeanette Rand told me about that one. It may have included an expensive engine. larry severson ++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++ Stories have a way of getting "embellished" with time. I'm wondering if it wasn't the KR that got trailered to Kentucky in 1990. It was stretched, longer wings, had retractable tricycle gear, long range tanks, a Lycombing engine, and a ($10,000 panel ?) and was going to be used to set some long distance records. I've never seen or heard of it since. I have a picture of it in my photo album. I can't help but think that putting 90K into a KR2 is probably prohibited by a federal req if we looked hard enough. :-) Larry Flesner Carterville, Illinois ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 23 Dec 2003 20:50:42 -0600 From: larry flesner To: kr2cooper@earthlink.net,KRnet Subject: RE: KR>pictures Message-ID: <3.0.6.32.20031223205042.007e5740@pop.midwest.net> In-Reply-To: <410-22003122231785260@earthlink.net> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii" MIME-Version: 1.0 Precedence: list Message: 13 >Larry > Congratulations for flying your KR. I noticed a bump, or something on the >top surface of the wing out near the tip (first outing in white dress >picture). What are they? >Robert J. (Jack) Cooper ++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++ Those are fuel caps. I started with flush caps and a 1/4" vent exiting the bottom of the wing. I didn't like the amount of fuel leaking from the vents so I sealed them up and built a vented fuel cap of my own design for each tank. They seem to work fine after 6 hours of run time, 2 of which was in the air. Mark Langford took some pictures of them and they may be posted on my site at KRnet. Larry Flesner ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 23 Dec 2003 20:51:36 -0600 From: larry flesner To: KRnet Subject: KR>Hughs glue Message-ID: <3.0.6.32.20031223205136.007e5740@pop.midwest.net> In-Reply-To: References: <027201c3c959$97978db0$5dcb4944@ROBBINS1> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii" MIME-Version: 1.0 Precedence: list Message: 14 >Hughes Glue, aka FPL16A is Shell EPON epoxy with 2.5% thinner and a filler >of Titanium Dioxide. It is better than T-88 ( in my opinion) but messy due >to the coloration. I use T88, but would use either, depending on stock on >hand. Zero concern regarding cold temps. r.freiberger +++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++ I used the FPL 16A for my entire project for gluing wood. It says the mix is critical but I had no problem mixing ( 10:1) as little as 5 teaspoons at a time. I used measuring spoons and baby food jars. If I needed a large batch I'd put all my part one measures in the jars and then just add the part two amount as I was ready to stur and use. I tried mixing a large batch all at once in the summer heat and it all fired at once while I was holding the pot. Whee doggie, instant heat!! I overcame the drawback in color mentioned above (it is white) by just painting the the inside of the cockpit from the baggage area forward. The EAA book on wood lists the FPL 16A as the best of all wood epoxies at the time of printing. It seems a bit thin but for vertical joints a bit of "flox" can be added. Larry Flesner ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 23 Dec 2003 21:48:20 -0700 From: "Lee" To: "KRnet" Subject: Re: KR>I would trailer the KR home! Message-ID: <007801c3c9d9$29537f50$7401a8c0@D3DF1Y11> References: <029e01c3c95b$1d5766e0$5dcb4944@ROBBINS1> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8" MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Precedence: list Message: 15 If interested I can send some photos of the rig we set up to get my plane from MI to AZ. We used a Harbor Freight trailer, no damage and it worked great. Lee Van Dyke Mesa AZ lee@vandyke5.com ----- Original Message ----- From: "Orma Robbins" To: "KRnet" ; Sent: Tuesday, December 23, 2003 6:46 AM Subject: Re: KR>I would trailer the KR home! > KR-2 on the trailer at home in Alaska, > > I have trailered my KR to Minnisota and back to Michigan. I used a small > modified boat trailer and sat the KR on top of a 3/4 ply sheet sitting on > its main wheels and built an tail stand for the back. The tail stand did > not have enough padding and did a little damage. Other then that the KR did > very well on it own gear. > Orma aka AviationMech > 19 Years flying the KR-2 > > > _______________________________________________ > see KRnet list details at http://www.krnet.org/instructions.html > > > ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 24 Dec 2003 00:17:16 EST From: Flymaca711689@aol.com To: krnet@mylist.net Subject: Re: KR>CHT sensor location on VW Message-ID: <1a7.1df48107.2d1a7b5c@aol.com> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII" MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Precedence: list Message: 16 i also relocated my cht coupler i had it under the plug and like Steve said it gave a higher reading like 75 deg also i burned a valve seat due to plug coming lose possibly all other valves were fine. proper location is on the right bank looking out of the aircraft #2 or #4 cly depending on mag or dist firing orders are different under head bolt (stud) and not the plug. mac mcfarland flymaca711689@aol.com ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 24 Dec 2003 19:49:49 +1100 From: "Martindale Family" To: "KRnet" Subject: KR>More on pitot/static error Message-ID: <007901c3c9fa$f93653c0$75a0fea9@johnjane> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable Precedence: list Message: 17 Hi folks I came across a neat article by Tony Bingelis on the net last night. Do = a google search on pitot static error. Tony described a really simple = method for adjusting any airspeed error provided you have an external = static tube (as distinct to a fuselage or interior source). He suggested = an o-ring be slided along the tube. Locating it in front of the little = static holes in the tube results in a drop in static pressure and an = increase in indicated airspeed. Behind the holes leads to the opposite. = Distance from the hole determines amount of change. Once the correct = position is ascertained, the o-ring is replaced by a more permanent = fixture, eg. a small band of metal or filler. I guess something similar = could be obtained on a fuselage side static vent using a small mound of = something either in front or behind the hole that can be sanded down = accordingly to suit. I reckon my airspeed is under-reading by about 12 knots in the cruise = because the static is affected by high pressure under the wing. The = above is so simple and apparently accurate that I can't wait to try it = out and compare with a three leg GPS readout at different speeds. = Certainly heaps easier than relocating tubes etc. It will also hopefully = resolve a minor altitude error picked up by my annual transponder check = whereby, for example, altitude readout on the ground by slight = evacuation of the static to give 1000 feet was not obtained until 1100 = feet or so in the air. Thanks to all who have provided me with assistance on this. =20 The Martindale Family 29 Jane Circuit TOORMINA NSW 2452 AUSTRALIA phone: 61 2 66584767 email: johnjane@chc.net.auFrom bo124rs@hotmail.com Wed Dec 24 04:26:16 2003 Received: from bay13-f21.bay13.hotmail.com ([64.4.31.21] helo=hotmail.com) by lizard.esosoft.net with esmtp (Exim 3.36 #1) id 1AZ85g-0007M3-00 for krnet@mylist.net; Wed, 24 Dec 2003 04:26:16 -0800 Received: from mail pickup service by hotmail.com with Microsoft SMTPSVC; Wed, 24 Dec 2003 04:15:06 -0800 Received: from 152.163.253.1 by by13fd.bay13.hotmail.msn.com with HTTP; Wed, 24 Dec 2003 12:15:06 GMT X-Originating-IP: [152.163.253.1] X-Originating-Email: [bo124rs@hotmail.com] X-Sender: bo124rs@hotmail.com From: "Dana Overall" To: krnet@mylist.net Bcc: Date: Wed, 24 Dec 2003 07:15:06 -0500 Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; format=flowed Message-ID: X-OriginalArrivalTime: 24 Dec 2003 12:15:06.0614 (UTC) FILETIME=[913B3160:01C3CA17] Subject: KR>Canopy release and latches. X-BeenThere: krnet@mylist.net X-Mailman-Version: 2.1b3 Precedence: list Reply-To: KRnet List-Id: KRnet List-Post: List-Subscribe: , List-Unsubscribe: , List-Archive: List-Help: By the time I went to bed last night I had sent out 4 private emails showing different URLs for non KR canopy release and latch URLs. This morning I had an additional 17 in my in box. For brevity sake I am posting what I sent to everyone previously. These are the only pics I can send, I don't have a KR in my garage anymore to run out and measure the canopy height, shoulder width or firewall support. This is all I have now. As this cut and paste from the single private email stated: "The post below has nothing to do with the KR; please stop the - I've switched to Aluminum, I got one, how come you can't come and join me and the rest of the RV crowd." That statement could not be any furthur from reality. The only reason I post the URLs listed below is to offer an idea for the KR builder, not as the above statement indicates. I know when I was building my KR, I looked at airplanes of all types trying to get ideas. Where in world do you think the Dr. Dean hinge idea came from?? You wouldn't believe the number of airplanes Langford and I walked up to at SNF one year snapping pics of the elevator hinges. This is not posted as a "this is the way to do it" or "this is the best way" or "if you don't do it this way it will fall out of the sky". If anyone thinks this is inappropriate let me know. Every single private email I got supported my posting. If it bothers you let me know, I'll restrict my postings to running out and taking pictures of what I left of my KR, which would be a piece of carbon fiber and some foam. I think I could reply to one or two posts a year. When I posted pics of the pushrod assembly with part numbers it was so a builder who was installing pushrods could have an easy outlet to purchase and manufacture his assembly. With that said, remember Fun Friday is for anything aviation:-) I didn't reply to what Dan had on his website about the handy dandy deburring tool because I thought it might be too much "metal". Heck, I got three deburring tools from Avery and know just what he wants including part numbers. Go with the one that fits in an electric screwdriver....the hand crank one is known as the "carpel tool". If you find the following offensive, well that's all I got. I try and restrict my postings to what would work on the KR not as that absurd quote states. As someone once told me, "a turtle doesn't get anywhere unless he sticks his head out of his shell". Here's the head.....take a swing.............float like a butterfly............yea, right:-) Sorry for the rant but some people can't see help even if the signs painted red and stuck in their front yard. The URL shows the release handle. You would attach a rod internally to activate whatever latching mechanism you would choose. The pics at the bottom are of mine showing the latching handle and how it rotates. Take a look here http://rvproject.com/20030220.html It is about 1/2 way down the page. It shows the material used and how you need to cut it to make it work on a KR. Click Next at the bottom of the page for a couple additional pics. This is the near flush outside release mechanism. You can drill it, place a lock on it for when you are at Oshkosh, or leave it unlocked so people won't break your canopy to steal something. This is on the tipper. All alum is 1/8". If you need some explaining of how this works, drop me a line. The following pictures show the internal locking handle for a slider. http://rvflying.tripod.com/latch1.jpg http://rvflying.tripod.com/latch2.jpg Yes, this is my Imron black. Notice the pivot point of the latch is aft of the centerline of the handle. When you pivot it to the point where it hits the peg, it levers itself and snugs the canopy. Really neat and cheap install for both methods. Two small pegs drop in on the aft part of the frame into blocks that secure the aft corners. The latch simply protrudes through the canopy to a very small external handle. Truly KISS, there is nothing complicated about this arrangement. Dana Overall 1999 & 2000 National KR Gathering host Richmond, KY RV-7 slider, Imron black, "Black Magic" Finish kit Buying Instruments. Hangar flying my Dynon. http://rvflying.tripod.com do not archive _________________________________________________________________ Expand your wine savvy — and get some great new recipes — at MSN Wine. http://wine.msn.com ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 24 Dec 2003 07:07:05 -0600 From: larry flesner To: KRnet Subject: KR>Canopy release and latches. Message-ID: <3.0.6.32.20031224070705.0088b8f0@pop.midwest.net> In-Reply-To: Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii" MIME-Version: 1.0 Precedence: list Message: 18 For pic's of my gullwing door latch assy go to http://home.hiwaay.net/~langford/flesner/02092597.jpg http://home.hiwaay.net/~langford/flesner/02092596.jpg http://home.hiwaay.net/~langford/flesner/15.jpg The nylon blocks could be downsized a bit and the entire assy covered to look a bit more finished. The nylon blocks were fabricated from a nylon cutting board (used in the kitchen), the rods are pieces of the 3/16" rod used to align the elevator and rudder hinges, the handle is two pieces of thin wall 4130 pipe that slip inside one another. "Wood washers" were welded to the ends of the rod and then dressed down with a sanding belt to make the rod attach points for the handle. The outside handle is a washer and then a short piece of 1/4" rod welded to the pipe and dress with a sander. The pipe going through the gullwing rests inside thick nylon washers which are seated inside a wood block glassed into the door. When I had the proper alignment between the inside latch and outside handle I drilled and riveted the two pieces of pipe together. The rods have an attach point approx 3/4" from the center axis of the pipe. I got the dimensions from the top lift gate latch on the back of my pickup truck, the same place I found the perfect gas spring. The rod ends are slightly tappered as well as the holes in the blocks. The rods extend into the blocks approx 3/4" when latched with a 90 degree rotation of the handle. What I like about this setup besides it's ease of use and very snug closure is that there is nothing in the opening to snag, impale, or otherwise cause harm to the person entering or exiting the cockpit. As always, your results may vary. Good luck. Larry Flesner ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 24 Dec 2003 08:00:56 -0600 From: larry flesner To: KRnet Subject: KR>0-200 question Message-ID: <3.0.6.32.20031224080056.00887870@pop.midwest.net> In-Reply-To: <3FE477D2.CD437A84@arctic.net> References: <37.423bc220.2d1570d2@wmconnect.com> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii" MIME-Version: 1.0 Precedence: list Message: 19 I'd like to hear from anyone with experience on 0-200 engines. Mine is basiclly stock as removed from a C-150 with the same carb, heat box, baffling, air filter, etc. The engine has new mags, wire harness, cleaned and regapped plugs with new plugs in the top holes of #1 and #2 cylinders. Yesterday I pulled my prop to send back for re-pitching. Before doing so we did a compression check. Three cylinders were 80 / mid 70's and one was a bit weak at 80 / 64. It seemed to have an exhaust valve leak that is probably carbon on the valve as air is exiting the exhaust pipe. This is on a high time 1800 hour engine. My question concerns the fuel/air distribution. #1 cylinder is burning the leanest with very grey plugs, #3 plugs have a good color also but not quite as lean as #1. #2 plug on top is quite black (dry) while the bottom plug looks good. #4 plugs both look very black (dry). #1 cylinder, the one with the exhaust leak and low compression, is the one running with the leanest mixture. Is this poor mixture distribution common or should I suspect air leaks. The carb was basiclly rebuilt by an A&P friend of mine when installing the single piece venturi and he does VERY GOOD WORK. The carb butterfly shaft is worn and needs new bushings but the side with the most play has the rich running cylinders. I seem to recall a note about mixture distribution with the single piece venturi but that work was done 6 or 8 years back and I have trouble remembering what I had for breakfast this morning. :-) The engine starts well and basiclly runs smooth except some vibation in the 2100 to 2300 rpm range in flight. I attributed the vibration to the prop but now I'm wondering if I have some plug misfiring. Give it your best shot. I'd appreciate any input you might have. I'd like to go after this problem (?) while I'm down for prop re-pitching. Thanks. Larry Flesner ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 24 Dec 2003 08:57:52 -0600 From: larry flesner To: KRnet Subject: KR>0-200 question-correction Message-ID: <3.0.6.32.20031224085752.007eeb60@pop.midwest.net> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii" MIME-Version: 1.0 Precedence: list Message: 20 In my eariler post I had numbered my cylinders wrong. Below is the e-mail in it's entirity with the correct cylinder numbers. Sorry about that. >I'd like to hear from anyone with experience on 0-200 >engines. Mine is basiclly stock as removed from a >C-150 with the same carb, heat box, baffling, air filter, etc. >The engine has new mags, wire harness, cleaned and >regapped plugs with new plugs in the top holes of >#3 and #4 cylinders. > >Yesterday I pulled my prop to send back for re-pitching. >Before doing so we did a compression check. Three >cylinders were 80 / mid 70's and one was a bit weak >at 80 / 64. It seemed to have an exhaust valve leak >that is probably carbon on the valve as air is exiting >the exhaust pipe. This is on a high time 1800 hour >engine. > >My question concerns the fuel/air distribution. #4 >cylinder is burning the leanest with very grey plugs, >#2 plugs have a good color also but not quite as >lean as #4. #3 plug on top is quite black (dry) while >the bottom plug looks good. #1 plugs both look >very black (dry). #4 cylinder, the one with the exhaust >leak and low compression, is the one running with >the leanest mixture. > > Is this poor mixture distribution >common or should I suspect air leaks. The carb >was basiclly rebuilt by an A&P friend of mine when >installing the single piece venturi and he does VERY >GOOD WORK. The carb butterfly shaft is worn and >needs new bushings but the side with the most play >has the rich running cylinders. I seem to recall a note >about mixture distribution with the single piece venturi >but that work was done 6 or 8 years back and I have >trouble remembering what I had for breakfast this >morning. :-) > >The engine starts well and basiclly runs smooth except >some vibation in the 2100 to 2300 rpm range in flight. >I attributed the vibration to the prop but now I'm wondering >if I have some plug misfiring. > >Give it your best shot. I'd appreciate any input you might >have. I'd like to go after this problem (?) while I'm down >for prop re-pitching. > >Thanks. > >Larry Flesner > ------------------------------ _______________________________________________ See KRnet list details at http://www.krnet.org/instructions.html End of KRnet Digest, Vol 259, Issue 1 *************************************