From: krnet-bounces@mylist.net To: John Bouyea Subject: KRnet Digest, Vol 346, Issue 162 Date: 10/12/2004 7:39:12 PM Send KRnet mailing list submissions to krnet@mylist.net To subscribe or unsubscribe via the World Wide Web, visit http://mylist.net/listinfo/krnet or, via email, send a message with subject or body 'help' to krnet-request@mylist.net You can reach the person managing the list at krnet-owner@mylist.net When replying, please edit your Subject line so it is more specific than "Re: Contents of KRnet digest..." Today's Topics: 1. E-mail Problem (JEHayward@aol.com) 2. Re: AC Registration (Phillip Matheson) 3. Re: Re: Screwed, blued and tattoed !!! (Phillip Matheson) 4. Re: Re: KR Plans (James R Freeman) 5. Re: Aileron Travel? (Mac McConnell-Wood) 6. Re: Screwed, blued and tattoed !!! (patrusso) 7. Wax em (rhartwig11@juno.com) 8. Re: Re: Screwed, blued and tattoed !!! (Orma) 9. RE: Re: Screwed, blued and tattoed !!! (Mark Jones) 10. RE: Re: Screwed, blued and tattoed !!! (Mark Jones) 11. Re: Re: Screwed, blued and tattoed !!! (Dennis Mingear) 12. Composite Tanks (Matthew Elder) 13. Nut Plates (Dan Heath) 14. Re: Composite Tanks (patrusso) 15. Re: Composite Tanks (Donald Reid) 16. Floxing nut plates (Colin & Bev Rainey) 17. Tail Wheel (raybeth123@sbcglobal.net) 18. Re: control surfaces stops (larry flesner) 19. Control stops (Colin & Bev Rainey) 20. Re: Tail Wheel (The Weber's) 21. Re: Tail Wheel (IFLYKRS@aol.com) 22. Fwd: The results of your email commands (Stan Campbell) 23. Re: Tail Wheel (Orma) 24. Re: Tail Wheel (Stan Campbell) 25. Lead (Stephen and Janet Henderson) 26. head cylinder question (Bdazzcamro@aol.com) 27. Re: Lead (Mark Jones) 28. Re: Lead (Stephen and Janet Henderson) 29. Re: Lead (Brant Hollensbe) ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Message: 1 Date: Tue, 12 Oct 2004 00:33:24 EDT From: JEHayward@aol.com Subject: KR> E-mail Problem To: krnet@mylist.net Cc: Palco@get2net.dk Message-ID: <195.30d93b9a.2e9cb894@aol.com> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII" Guys, can someone help Kjeld with his problem. I'd normally have sent this to Mark Langford but since he's away, I'm hoping someone else can help him. Reader's Digest version.... he sent a note to the Matronics KR list to but wasn't getting any e-mails. I happened to see it there and responded that the activity was on this list. He asked me to subscribe him. I explained that I couldn't but told him how to subscribe. I got a note back that he had subscribed then, a few days later, he sent me the following: ------------------------------------------------------------------------------ >Subj: Re: KR-List: Official Usage Guideline [Please Read] [Monthly Posting] >Date: 10/10/04 3:06:29 AM Mountain Daylight Time >From: Palco@get2net.dk (KVP) >To: JEHayward@aol.com > >Hej Jim >Sorry. >But, are there no e-mails this week? Because I recived non. >Best regards > >Kjeld -------------------------------------- So I asked if maybe he had gotten the two lists confused since that e-mail to me had come from the other list. He sent me this reply: ----------------------------------------------------------- >Subj: Re: KR-List: Official Usage Guideline [Please Read] [Monthly Posting] >Date: 10/11/04 11:07:12 AM Mountain Daylight Time >From: Palco@get2net.dk (KVP) >To: JEHayward@aol.com > >Hej Jim >Recived this. >: krnet-bounces@mylist.net > To: > palco@get2net.dk ---------------------------------- So if anyone knows how to help him, would you please respond directly to him so he can get the list mail. His address is: Palco@get2net.dk Thanks.... Jim Hayward Rapid City, SD ------------------------------ Message: 2 Date: Tue, 12 Oct 2004 16:28:52 +1000 From: "Phillip Matheson" Subject: Re: KR> AC Registration To: "KRnet" Message-ID: <018101c4b024$be2df290$3cb1dccb@StationW2k04> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" You guys are being ripped off. Down under , rego is free, unless you register ultra light, then you have to pay. Phillip Matheson matheson@dodo.com.au Australia VH PKR See our engines and kits at. http://www.vw-engines.com/ http://www.homebuilt-aviation.com/ See my KR Construction web page at http://mywebpage.netscape.com/FlyingKRPhil/VHPKR.html ------------------------------ Message: 3 Date: Tue, 12 Oct 2004 16:53:27 +1000 From: "Phillip Matheson" Subject: Re: KR> Re: Screwed, blued and tattoed !!! To: "KRnet" Message-ID: <01f601c4b028$2decf1a0$3cb1dccb@StationW2k04> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Mark I put metal screws in my nut plates.( to hold them while drying, and keep the flox out) with some lube on the threads the flox did not stick to them , they came out very easy. Phillip Matheson matheson@dodo.com.au Australia VH PKR See our engines and kits at. http://www.vw-engines.com/ http://www.homebuilt-aviation.com/ See my KR Construction web page at http://mywebpage.netscape.com/FlyingKRPhil/VHPKR.html ------------------------------ Message: 4 Date: Tue, 12 Oct 2004 05:02:36 -0400 From: James R Freeman Subject: Re: KR> Re: KR Plans To: KRnet Message-ID: <00b301c4b03a$38f3a5a0$5bd790cf@hewlettz2wf5fi> Content-Type: text/plain; reply-type=original; charset=iso-8859-1; format=flowed Kandance: I have a spare set of the KR-2 Plans. Both of mine date to the time Ken was alive. I will be gone till Friday, You can contact me off list jrfreeman at highland.net. Jim ----- Original Message ----- From: To: Sent: Monday, October 11, 2004 10:39 PM Subject: KR> Re: KR Plans > I'm looking for a set of KR-1 or 2 plans. I would like to get the > original ones (KR2) before the advent of the plans with all of the > premolded parts. Can anyone out there help me. I used to have a set, > but I think they were thrown > out. > > Thank you, > > Kandace > (new list member) > _______________________________________ > to UNsubscribe from KRnet, send a message to KRnet-leave@mylist.net > please see other KRnet info at http://www.krnet.org/info.html > ------------------------------ Message: 5 Date: Tue, 12 Oct 2004 11:10:47 +0100 From: "Mac McConnell-Wood" Subject: Re: KR> Aileron Travel? To: "KRnet" Message-ID: <007201c4b043$bf5172e0$1fc49c51@tinypc> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Hi Dan, This problem arose for me 15 years ago so it's a bit hazy now ,but I have a note I made at the time in my manual.Quote" The 2.5" arm (between hinge and bolt hole) will only just give the range of movement-make it shorter and get more range " The height of the ail spar isn't specified in my drawings so maybe there could be some variation in the vertical location of the control horn.,which would give differing results. I would make a cardboard cut-out of the lever dimensions (noting the bellcrank input) to prove the obtained range.(KIS)! Perhaps I got something wrong ,but it worked out in the end. Regards , Mac UK, ----- Original Message ----- From: "Dan Heath" To: Sent: Tuesday, October 12, 2004 1:53 AM Subject: Re: KR> Aileron Travel? > Actually, my plans show the center of the hole .650 below the bottom > of the > aileron spar, as if the distance from the hinge did not matter. > Subject: Re: KR> Aileron Travel? > > Hi Dan, Before you flox in your aileron spar,make sure the distance between > > the hinge center line and the control horn bolt hole center line are > > 2.5"max. My drawings omitted this dimension and I was unable to get > the full > > range of movement due to this error- . > > _______________________________________ > to UNsubscribe from KRnet, send a message to KRnet-leave@mylist.net > please see other KRnet info at http://www.krnet.org/info.html ------------------------------ Message: 6 Date: Tue, 12 Oct 2004 06:13:59 -0400 From: "patrusso" Subject: Re: KR> Screwed, blued and tattoed !!! To: "KRnet" Message-ID: <004a01c4b044$314533a0$53a972d8@3z4xt01> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Use screws dipped in auto wax or silicon spray, the stuff used for protection/treatment for the top of your table saw and other wood working equipment. I dare say that the non-stick spray used for frying pans would work as well Pat in Vermont ----- Original Message ----- From: "Mark Jones" To: "KR Net" Sent: Monday, October 11, 2004 6:40 PM Subject: KR> Screwed, blued and tattoed !!! > Yesterday, I floxed in place the Aileron mounting spar into the right wing. I was very concerned about the nut plates on the back of the spar filling with flox and being clogged. So, I remembered someone stating they had put nylon screws in the nutplates to prevent this and theirs easily removed after the flox dried. Well....mine did not come out and now my screw holes are plugged with nylon bolts. Guess I will have to carefully drill them out and tap the nut plates to get the threads clean.........anyone know of a better way to get them out??????????????? Man, it is always something. I gotta get bird in the air before I go crazy. > > Mark Jones (N886MJ) > Wales, WI USA > E-mail me at flykr2s@wi.rr.com > Visit my KR-2S CorvAIRCRAFT web site at > http://mywebpage.netscape.com/n886mj/homepage.html > > _______________________________________ > to UNsubscribe from KRnet, send a message to KRnet-leave@mylist.net > please see other KRnet info at http://www.krnet.org/info.html ------------------------------ Message: 7 Date: Tue, 12 Oct 2004 07:18:15 -0500 From: rhartwig11@juno.com Subject: KR> Wax em To: krnet@mylist.net Message-ID: <20041012.071815.1376.1.rhartwig11@juno.com> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Modeling clay would also work. Wax is difficult to see and can get in the wrong place without you noticing and possibly ruin the bond. Dick Hartwig ------------------------------ Message: 8 Date: Tue, 12 Oct 2004 08:58:41 -0400 From: "Orma" Subject: Re: KR> Re: Screwed, blued and tattoed !!! To: "KRnet" Message-ID: <01bf01c4b05b$34065800$6c34d445@ROBBINS1> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" if you had diped the nylon threads in wax first then they probely would have come out a lot eaiser. Hello Net That is not necessarily true. The locking feature of the nut will cut the wax and a tiny bit of the plastic as the screw passes that part of the nut plate. The part that is on the other side of the plate embedded in the flox will be stuck. Cover the back of the nutplate and the screw, what ever type you use with thick grease or wax, to make sure that the flox can't touch the back of the nut plate at all. I used floating nut plates attached to small aluminum plates and attached the aluminum plates to the spar with small wood screws. Orma Southfield, MI N110LR celebrating 20 years Flying, flying and more flying http://www.kr-2.aviation-mechanics.com/ ------------------------------ Message: 9 Date: Tue, 12 Oct 2004 08:14:54 -0500 From: Mark Jones Subject: RE: KR> Re: Screwed, blued and tattoed !!! To: 'KRnet' Message-ID: <370D915E4564D611B0530050DABB9FC201902C16@SIC-EXCHANGE> Content-Type: text/plain Thanks to all that replied......This was a real learning experience which I should have not had to have gone through. I just did not think in my haste to get this bird flying. Luckily, I was able to correct my mistake rather easily. You can bet your bottom dollar I will not make the same mistake twice. I hope others have learned from my experience. Mark Jones (N886MJ) Wales, WI -----Original Message----- From: Orma [mailto:orma@aviation-mechanics.com] Sent: Tuesday, October 12, 2004 7:59 AM To: KRnet Subject: Re: KR> Re: Screwed, blued and tattoed !!! if you had diped the nylon threads in wax first then they probely would have come out a lot eaiser. Hello Net That is not necessarily true. The locking feature of the nut will cut the wax and a tiny bit of the plastic as the screw passes that part of the nut plate. The part that is on the other side of the plate embedded in the flox will be stuck. Cover the back of the nutplate and the screw, what ever type you use with thick grease or wax, to make sure that the flox can't touch the back of the nut plate at all. I used floating nut plates attached to small aluminum plates and attached the aluminum plates to the spar with small wood screws. Orma Southfield, MI N110LR celebrating 20 years Flying, flying and more flying http://www.kr-2.aviation-mechanics.com/ _______________________________________ to UNsubscribe from KRnet, send a message to KRnet-leave@mylist.net please see other KRnet info at http://www.krnet.org/info.html ------------------------------ Message: 10 Date: Tue, 12 Oct 2004 08:22:01 -0500 From: Mark Jones Subject: RE: KR> Re: Screwed, blued and tattoed !!! To: 'KRnet' Message-ID: <370D915E4564D611B0530050DABB9FC201902C17@SIC-EXCHANGE> Content-Type: text/plain Orma is absolutely correct in his post below. Another point to remember is that the nut plate should be completely covered even where the edges meet the wood. If not epoxy may seep in under the nut plate and into the threads causing the screw to lock up. I used tiny #4 x 1/4" stainless steel wood screws to secure my nutplates to the spar so covering the entire nutplate with wax is not an issue. Mark Jones (N886MJ) Wales, WI -----Original Message----- From: Orma [mailto:orma@aviation-mechanics.com] Sent: Tuesday, October 12, 2004 7:59 AM To: KRnet Subject: Re: KR> Re: Screwed, blued and tattoed !!! if you had diped the nylon threads in wax first then they probely would have come out a lot eaiser. Hello Net That is not necessarily true. The locking feature of the nut will cut the wax and a tiny bit of the plastic as the screw passes that part of the nut plate. The part that is on the other side of the plate embedded in the flox will be stuck. Cover the back of the nutplate and the screw, what ever type you use with thick grease or wax, to make sure that the flox can't touch the back of the nut plate at all. I used floating nut plates attached to small aluminum plates and attached the aluminum plates to the spar with small wood screws. Orma Southfield, MI N110LR celebrating 20 years Flying, flying and more flying http://www.kr-2.aviation-mechanics.com/ _______________________________________ to UNsubscribe from KRnet, send a message to KRnet-leave@mylist.net please see other KRnet info at http://www.krnet.org/info.html ------------------------------ Message: 11 Date: Tue, 12 Oct 2004 07:55:03 -0700 (PDT) From: Dennis Mingear Subject: Re: KR> Re: Screwed, blued and tattoed !!! To: KRnet Message-ID: <20041012145503.42510.qmail@web51404.mail.yahoo.com> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii I haven't tried this but maybe a quick spray with some "Pam" cooking oil would work also. Denny ... Dan Heath wrote: I don't use flox for the nut plates, I rivet them on, so this problem does not exist for me. Funny, I found that Jerry had done the same on these ailerons, when I took them apart. There is a time for building and a time for FLYING and the time for building has expired. See N64KR at http://KR-Builder.org - Then click on the pics Daniel R. Heath - Columbia, SC See you in Mt. Vernon - 2005 - KR Gathering -------Original Message------- So what method for keeping the epoxy out of the nut plates would you use next time? _______________________________________ to UNsubscribe from KRnet, send a message to KRnet-leave@mylist.net please see other KRnet info at http://www.krnet.org/info.html __________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? Tired of spam? Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around http://mail.yahoo.com ------------------------------ Message: 12 Date: Tue, 12 Oct 2004 10:33:11 -0700 (PDT) From: Matthew Elder Subject: KR> Composite Tanks To: KRnet Message-ID: <20041012173311.3632.qmail@web13926.mail.yahoo.com> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii You guys building composite tanks: How are you routing the fuel lines through the tank sides? Are you drilling a hole, floxing, then using an AN fitting, or just running a hard line though a hole and floxing the whole mess in place. Matt http://kr1.infinigral.com ------------------------------ Message: 13 Date: Tue, 12 Oct 2004 17:19:23 -0400 (Eastern Daylight Time) From: "Dan Heath" Subject: KR> Nut Plates To: "krnet@mylist.net" Message-ID: <416C4A5B.000003.02188@DANHOMECOMPUTER> Content-Type: Text/Plain; charset="iso-8859-1" RE: I used floating nut plates One word on floating nut plates. They seem to be much more destructive to the screw than do the fixed ones. I use the fixed ones with a little Boe Lube on the screw. If you put the fixed ones in correctly, with care, they are much easier to use as you don't have to hunt around for where the nut actually is. I know, that was more than one word. There is a time for building and a time for FLYING and the time for building has expired. See N64KR at http://KR-Builder.org - Then click on the pics Daniel R. Heath - Columbia, SC See you in Mt. Vernon - 2005 - KR Gathering ------------------------------ Message: 14 Date: Tue, 12 Oct 2004 18:00:45 -0400 From: "patrusso" Subject: Re: KR> Composite Tanks To: "KRnet" Message-ID: <001d01c4b0a6$ed2681c0$a5b172d8@3z4xt01> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" On the wing tanks you might wish to consider floxing in AN fittings so that you can install drain valves. On the header tank, consider another fitting to screw in a finger strainer/fuel line connect. (Page 55 and 56, Aircraft Spruce and specialty. ----- Original Message ----- From: "Matthew Elder" To: "KRnet" Sent: Tuesday, October 12, 2004 1:33 PM Subject: KR> Composite Tanks > > You guys building composite tanks: > > How are you routing the fuel lines through the tank sides? Are you drilling a hole, floxing, then using an AN fitting, or just running a hard line though a hole and floxing the whole mess in place. > > Matt > > http://kr1.infinigral.com _______________________________________ > to UNsubscribe from KRnet, send a message to KRnet-leave@mylist.net > please see other KRnet info at http://www.krnet.org/info.html ------------------------------ Message: 15 Date: Tue, 12 Oct 2004 18:23:30 -0400 From: Donald Reid Subject: Re: KR> Composite Tanks To: KRnet Message-ID: <6.1.0.6.2.20041012181929.01d29c88@pop.erols.com> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"; format=flowed At 01:33 PM 10/12/2004, you wrote: >You guys building composite tanks: > >How are you routing the fuel lines through the tank sides? Are you >drilling a hole, floxing, then using an AN fitting, or just running a hard >line though a hole and floxing the whole mess in place. I started with an aluminum welding flange, Aircraft Spruce part number AN867-3 with a finger strainer, AC Spruce part number 05-17700. Then fittings as necessary. I drilled about 6 small holes in the flange, bedded it in place with flox against the tank wall, and the put a layer of glass over it. It works extremely well. Don Reid - donreid "at" erols.com Bumpass, Va Visit my web sites at: AeroFoil, a 2-D Airfoil Design And Analysis Computer Program: http://www.eaa231.org/AeroFoil/index.htm KR2XL construction: http://users.erols.com/donreid/kr_page.htm Aviation Surplus: http://users.erols.com/donreid/Airparts.htm EAA Chapter 231: http://eaa231.org Ultralights: http://usua250.org VA EAA State Fly-in: http://vaeaa.org ------------------------------ Message: 16 Date: Tue, 12 Oct 2004 18:43:41 -0400 From: "Colin & Bev Rainey" Subject: KR> Floxing nut plates To: "KRnet" Message-ID: <003201c4b0ac$ec7635d0$2d432141@RaineyDay> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" I used flox and nylon bolts to flox nut plates for my fuel gauge sending unit, before installing it into the tank, and when I tested the procedure, found the flox sticking to the nylon. So I cut the nylon screws to be just long enough to reach "bottom" in the nut plate, and then was able to flox over the whole plate, allow to cure and then back out the screw with just a small amount of pressure to break the tip free. Just some thoughts... Colin & Bev Rainey KR2(td) N96TA Sanford, FL crainey1@cfl.rr.com http://kr-builder.org/Colin/index.html ------------------------------ Message: 17 Date: Tue, 12 Oct 2004 18:35:53 -0500 From: Subject: KR> Tail Wheel To: "KRnet" Message-ID: <006801c4b0b4$37ca8e80$dc435844@DELL> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" This is primarily for John(?) Bouyea. The E-mail address I have for him did not work. I have been looking at the bouyea website and the pictures of your tailwheel assy. It seems to raise the aft end by about 12 inches. I plan to do the same on my KR2S. I would like to know if this gives a good view over the instrument panel and are there any adverse effects on the amount of weight on the tail wheel? Ray Goree 817-795-4779 ------------------------------ Message: 18 Date: Tue, 12 Oct 2004 19:26:29 -0500 From: larry flesner Subject: Re: KR> control surfaces stops To: KRnet Message-ID: <3.0.6.32.20041012192629.007c8e40@pop.midwest.net> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii" At 11:24 AM 10/11/04 -0700, you wrote: >I have question about control surface stops. Where should the stops be mounted and what material should be considered making the stops. >John Esch ++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++= As several other have done, I used the cutout in my fiberglass seat for max up , the spar for max stick forward, and adjustable stops mounted on the stick assy for aileron limits. I put my stick forward against the spar, adjusted the elevator cable for down limit, then adjusted the cutout in the seat until I got the up travel called for. As Virg stated (briefly), you want the stops on the control stick or input end to keep from putting strain on the control system at max deflection. There are many certified aircraft that have the stops at the control surface but it would make sense to me to keep the stresses on the cables, pullys, etc. to a minimum. Larry Flesner ------------------------------ Message: 19 Date: Tue, 12 Oct 2004 21:04:56 -0400 From: "Colin & Bev Rainey" Subject: KR> Control stops To: "KRnet" Message-ID: <001a01c4b0c0$a815d8f0$2d432141@RaineyDay> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" And Larry Those stops get bent and out of alignment quite often, rendering them all but useless after that happens. Plus they wear alot due to being in the weather. Colin & Bev Rainey KR2(td) N96TA Sanford, FL crainey1@cfl.rr.com http://kr-builder.org/Colin/index.html ------------------------------ Message: 20 Date: Tue, 12 Oct 2004 20:08:07 -0500 From: "The Weber's" Subject: Re: KR> Tail Wheel To: , "KRnet" Message-ID: <000e01c4b0c1$1aa7d580$2fcab4d8@hppav> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" I my opinion if you raise the tail that much you will not be able to get as much angle of attack on takeoff and will have to go faster to takeoff. Joe Weber ----- Original Message ----- From: To: "KRnet" Sent: Tuesday, October 12, 2004 6:35 PM Subject: KR> Tail Wheel > This is primarily for John(?) Bouyea. The E-mail address I have > for him did not work. > I have been looking at the bouyea website and the pictures of > your tailwheel assy. > It seems to raise the aft end by about 12 inches. I plan to do the > same on my KR2S. I would > like to know if this gives a good view over the instrument panel and > are there any adverse > effects on the amount of weight on the tail wheel? > Ray Goree > 817-795-4779 > _______________________________________ > to UNsubscribe from KRnet, send a message to KRnet-leave@mylist.net > please see other KRnet info at http://www.krnet.org/info.html > ------------------------------ Message: 21 Date: Tue, 12 Oct 2004 21:11:35 EDT From: IFLYKRS@aol.com Subject: Re: KR> Tail Wheel To: krnet@mylist.net Message-ID: Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII" Takeoff speeds should remain the same since you would be lifting the tail off the runway and then accelerating to takeoff speeds. This of course is for a normal takeoff. For a shortfeild takeoff you would keep the tail on the ground until the plane lifts off and the tailwheel could hinder short feild takeoff performance - not that the KR uses that much runway. It is the landing distance that would suffer more. I could perform better and slower three point landings if my tailwheel were closer to the rudder but it is already on about 6 inches away and I dont want to damage to rudder on a hard landing. Bill ------------------------------ Message: 22 Date: Tue, 12 Oct 2004 18:26:32 -0700 (PDT) From: Stan Campbell Subject: KR> Fwd: The results of your email commands To: krnet@mylist.net Message-ID: <20041013012632.70945.qmail@web51809.mail.yahoo.com> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii" Note: forwarded message attached. __________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? Tired of spam? Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around http://mail.yahoo.com ------------------------------ Message: 23 Date: Tue, 12 Oct 2004 22:00:13 -0400 From: "Orma" Subject: Re: KR> Tail Wheel To: "KRnet" Message-ID: <020601c4b0c8$618bdbc0$6c34d445@ROBBINS1> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" For a shortfield takeoff you would keep the tail on the ground until the plane lifts off Hello Net. On a hard surface you are correct, but on sod, especially wet or some what long, the tail wheel becomes that much more drag, and needs to be lifted off to help acceleration. Orma Southfield, MI N110LR celebrating 20 years Flying, flying and more flying http://www.kr-2.aviation-mechanics.com/ ------------------------------ Message: 24 Date: Tue, 12 Oct 2004 19:07:18 -0700 (PDT) From: Stan Campbell Subject: Re: KR> Tail Wheel To: KRnet Message-ID: <20041013020719.79855.qmail@web51803.mail.yahoo.com> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Wrong, for a shortfield t/o tail up for most airspeed. --- Orma wrote: > For a shortfield takeoff you would keep the tail on > the > ground until the plane lifts off > > Hello Net. > > On a hard surface you are correct, but on sod, > especially wet or some what > long, the tail wheel becomes that much more drag, > and needs to be lifted off > to help acceleration. > > Orma > Southfield, MI > N110LR celebrating 20 years > Flying, flying and more flying http://www.kr-2.aviation-mechanics.com/ > > > > _______________________________________ > to UNsubscribe from KRnet, send a message to KRnet-leave@mylist.net > please see other KRnet info at > http://www.krnet.org/info.html > __________________________________ Do you Yahoo!? Yahoo! Mail Address AutoComplete - You start. We finish. http://promotions.yahoo.com/new_mail ------------------------------ Message: 25 Date: Tue, 12 Oct 2004 22:22:45 -0400 From: "Stephen and Janet Henderson" Subject: KR> Lead To: "KRnet" Message-ID: <005501c4b0cb$86f57760$0f02a8c0@laptop> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Does anyone know where I can buy lead from for my counterweights? Steve ------------------------------ Message: 26 Date: Tue, 12 Oct 2004 22:30:04 EDT From: Bdazzcamro@aol.com Subject: KR> head cylinder question To: krnet@mylist.net Message-ID: <1d5.2c62857c.2e9ded2c@aol.com> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII" I have gotten my william wyness manual and from the reading I have read is that I can't use '64 heads cause they are open chambered...will a '65 head work with '64 cylinders? Are the '64 cylinders the same dimension as the '65 cylinders? Is there a interchangable catalog out there for the different years of corvairs? I will more than likely buy both of these engines since I have found them so cheap just in case I can use parts from one for the other. ------------------------------ Message: 27 Date: Tue, 12 Oct 2004 21:35:30 -0500 From: "Mark Jones" Subject: Re: KR> Lead To: "KRnet" Message-ID: <006a01c4b0cd$53ac46c0$6401a8c0@wi.rr.com> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Just go by a local garage where they change tires and they will give you all the lead you want. When they balance tires, they remove all the lead balance weights and toss it away. I got about 30 pounds at one stop. Just melt it down and remove the steel clips and you have a nice block of lead. The good part is it is free. Mark Jones (N886MJ) Wales, WI USA E-mail me at flykr2s@wi.rr.com Visit my KR-2S CorvAIRCRAFT web site at http://mywebpage.netscape.com/n886mj/homepage.html ----- Original Message ----- From: "Stephen and Janet Henderson" To: "KRnet" Sent: Tuesday, October 12, 2004 9:22 PM Subject: KR> Lead > Does anyone know where I can buy lead from for my counterweights? > > Steve > > _______________________________________ > to UNsubscribe from KRnet, send a message to KRnet-leave@mylist.net > please see other KRnet info at http://www.krnet.org/info.html > ------------------------------ Message: 28 Date: Tue, 12 Oct 2004 22:32:43 -0400 From: "Stephen and Janet Henderson" Subject: Re: KR> Lead To: "KRnet" Message-ID: <006801c4b0cc$eb189410$0f02a8c0@laptop> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Thanks Mark! Steve ----- Original Message ----- From: "Mark Jones" To: "KRnet" Sent: Tuesday, October 12, 2004 10:35 PM Subject: Re: KR> Lead > Just go by a local garage where they change tires and they will give > you all > the lead you want. When they balance tires, they remove all the lead balance > weights and toss it away. I got about 30 pounds at one stop. Just melt > it down and remove the steel clips and you have a nice block of lead. > The good > part is it is free. > > Mark Jones (N886MJ) > Wales, WI USA > E-mail me at flykr2s@wi.rr.com > Visit my KR-2S CorvAIRCRAFT web site at > http://mywebpage.netscape.com/n886mj/homepage.html > > > ----- Original Message ----- > From: "Stephen and Janet Henderson" > To: "KRnet" > Sent: Tuesday, October 12, 2004 9:22 PM > Subject: KR> Lead > > > > Does anyone know where I can buy lead from for my counterweights? > > > > Steve > > > > _______________________________________ > > to UNsubscribe from KRnet, send a message to KRnet-leave@mylist.net > > please see other KRnet info at http://www.krnet.org/info.html > > > > > > _______________________________________ > to UNsubscribe from KRnet, send a message to KRnet-leave@mylist.net > please see other KRnet info at http://www.krnet.org/info.html ------------------------------ Message: 29 Date: Tue, 12 Oct 2004 21:39:15 -0500 From: "Brant Hollensbe" Subject: Re: KR> Lead To: "KRnet" Message-ID: <001d01c4b0cd$d510d190$0702a8c0@bruntson> Content-Type: text/plain; format=flowed; charset="iso-8859-1"; reply-type=original Steve There are any number of ways to get lead for your counterweights. A auto salvage yard has used wheel weight lead for sale. A sporting goods or gun shop can sell you a bag of lead shot. A quick check of the yellow pages will reveal other sources. If you still can not find a source, email me off line and I will give you what you need. I do remodeling for a living and am always removing old lead pans from showers and lead flashing from roofs. Brant Hollensbe Bhollensbe@mchsi.com West Des Moines Ia ------------------------------ _______________________________________________ See KRnet list details at http://www.krnet.org/instructions.html End of KRnet Digest, Vol 346, Issue 162 *************************************** ================================== ABC Amber Outlook Converter v4.20 Trial version ==================================