From: krnet-bounces@mylist.net To: John Bouyea Subject: KRnet Digest, Vol 346, Issue 188 Date: 11/1/2004 8:59:20 PM Send KRnet mailing list submissions to krnet@mylist.net To subscribe or unsubscribe via the World Wide Web, visit http://mylist.net/listinfo/krnet or, via email, send a message with subject or body 'help' to krnet-request@mylist.net You can reach the person managing the list at krnet-owner@mylist.net When replying, please edit your Subject line so it is more specific than "Re: Contents of KRnet digest..." Today's Topics: 1. Re: ideas to monitor fuel transfer from wing tanks? (Phil Matheson) 2. Re: ideas to monitor fuel transfer from wing tanks? (patrusso) 3. Re: the heartbreak of Spraylat (Wayne Israelsen) 4. VE Resin (Matthew Elder) 5. Re: VE Resin (Cowgirl2fly@aol.com) 6. Re: VE Resin (Mark Langford) 7. How much width is enough? (Stephen Jacobs) 8. Re: prop (RENOSADLER@aol.com) 9. prop (Oscar Zuniga) 10. Re: prop (jscott.pilot@juno.com) 11. Re: VE Resin (Dan Heath) 12. RE: VE Resin (Jim Faughn) 13. Re: prop (RENOSADLER@aol.com) 14. RE: VE Resin (Dan Heath) 15. Re: VE Resin (Matthew Elder) ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Message: 1 Date: Mon, 1 Nov 2004 21:39:19 +1100 From: "Phil Matheson" Subject: Re: KR> ideas to monitor fuel transfer from wing tanks? To: "KRnet" Message-ID: <004401c4bfff$0bb9ace0$5230ddcb@Office> Content-Type: text/plain; format=flowed; charset="iso-8859-1"; reply-type=original Try a Toggle switch, It only pumps while you hold it on. Phil Matheson matheson@dodo.com.au VH-PKR ( Phil's KR) 61 3 58833588 Australia.( Down Under) See My KR2 Building Web Page at: http://mywebpage.netscape.com/flyingkrphil/VHPKR.html See our VW Engines and Home built web page at http://www.vw-engines.com/ www.homebuilt-aviation.com/ ------------------------------ Message: 2 Date: Mon, 1 Nov 2004 06:35:42 -0500 From: "patrusso" Subject: Re: KR> ideas to monitor fuel transfer from wing tanks? To: "KRnet" Message-ID: <001101c4c006$ec35c4a0$b7a972d8@3z4xt01> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" I am using a facet pump that is quite audible when wing tanks run dry. I use a toggle switch with a red light, switch on, light on, facet pump will pump X amount of fuel per minute, so watch your clock! And watch the transfer Qty. I have 13 Gallon header tank and 5 gallon wing tanks so obviously The fuel gage should read 1/4 full before trying to transfer all of it. If /when the wings run dry the pump will go clickady-clackady loud enough to warn you to shut pump off. ----- Original Message ----- From: "Phil Matheson" To: "KRnet" Sent: Monday, November 01, 2004 5:39 AM Subject: Re: KR> ideas to monitor fuel transfer from wing tanks? > Try a Toggle switch, It only pumps while you hold it on. > > Phil Matheson > matheson@dodo.com.au > VH-PKR ( Phil's KR) > 61 3 58833588 > Australia.( Down Under) > See My KR2 Building Web Page at: > http://mywebpage.netscape.com/flyingkrphil/VHPKR.html > > See our VW Engines and Home built web page at > http://www.vw-engines.com/ www.homebuilt-aviation.com/ > > _______________________________________ > to UNsubscribe from KRnet, send a message to KRnet-leave@mylist.net > please see other KRnet info at http://www.krnet.org/info.html ------------------------------ Message: 3 Date: Mon, 1 Nov 2004 05:06:03 -0800 From: "Wayne Israelsen" Subject: Re: KR> the heartbreak of Spraylat To: "KRnet" Message-ID: <004501c4c013$8adf0600$6801a8c0@computer> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" MArk most commercial paint stores in ca hav espeay lat on the shelf, or another comany's version. Try your local Sherwin williams or Benjamine Moore, they may have it there.HTH Thanks Wayne ----- Original Message ----- From: "Mark Langford" To: "KRnet" Sent: Friday, October 29, 2004 3:57 PM Subject: KR> the heartbreak of Spraylat > NetHeads, > > I've spent 4 or 5 hours so far, and expect to spend many more, peeling > the Spraylat off my canopy. somewhere that the > cure was to spray a new layer of Spraylat on top of the original, but > unfortunately I didn't have the good sense to order any yet. . > I'll order some Spraylat tonight and see how it goes, but > for now, I'm warning you guys not to get primer, especially Smooth > Prime, on > your Spraylat. The easiest way to avoid this it to use several widths > of electrical tape to make sure that the Spraylat never sees any > primer of any > kind. Electrical tape is THE ticket, as I learned from Don Reid > several years ago. Masking tape will become a permanent part of your > canopy if you > use it. If you have masking tape (or duct tape) on your canopy, > remove it right now to prevent further damage. > > Anybody with good ideas as to how to make this bearable is welcome to > enlighten me, but right now I'm waiting 'till Tuesday when UPS can > bring me > some Spraylat to put on top of this mess... > > Mark Langford, Huntsville, Alabama > N56ML "at" hiwaay.net > see KR2S project at http://home.hiwaay.net/~langford > > > > > > _______________________________________ > to UNsubscribe from KRnet, send a message to KRnet-leave@mylist.net > please see other KRnet info at http://www.krnet.org/info.html > ------------------------------ Message: 4 Date: Mon, 1 Nov 2004 07:18:06 -0800 (PST) From: Matthew Elder Subject: KR> VE Resin To: KRnet Message-ID: <20041101151806.3464.qmail@web13926.mail.yahoo.com> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii All, Quick question. You know how you have to scuff up (or use peel ply) on epoxy laminates to get a good bond when adding to them? Does the same apply to Vinyl Ester Resin laminates, or is the chemistry different so as the VE would "rebond" to itself? Matt http://kr1.infinigral.com ------------------------------------------------- Matthew Elder Orangeburg, SC http://www.infinigral.com/melder ------------------------------ Message: 5 Date: Mon, 1 Nov 2004 10:22:18 EST From: Cowgirl2fly@aol.com Subject: Re: KR> VE Resin To: krnet@mylist.net Message-ID: <79.374ae540.2eb7aeaa@aol.com> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII" Greetings Matt Its always better to scuff it gives it a better hold...... ------------------------------ Message: 6 Date: Mon, 1 Nov 2004 09:25:29 -0600 From: "Mark Langford" Subject: Re: KR> VE Resin To: "KRnet" Message-ID: <038001c4c027$05cd88b0$5e0ca58c@net.tbe.com> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Matt wrote: >> Quick question. You know how you have to scuff up (or use peel ply) >> on epoxy laminates to get a good bond when adding to them? Does the same apply to Vinyl Ester Resin laminates, or is the chemistry different so as the VE would "rebond" to itself?<< I don't claim to be an expert on VE, but I believe I remember Dan Diehl saying that the surface scum must be removed with solvent (mek, maybe) and then the VE sanded down to bare fiberglass to get a good bond. It's a lot easier with epoxy than it is with VE... A trip through the archives searching for "vinyl ester" would probably illuminate you some more. See http://www.maddyhome.com/krsrch/index.jsp , where I got 138 hits on that keyword... Mark Langford, Huntsville, AL N56ML at hiwaay.net see KR2S project N56ML at http://home.hiwaay.net/~langford ------------------------------ Message: 7 Date: Mon, 1 Nov 2004 19:15:54 +0200 From: "Stephen Jacobs" Subject: KR> How much width is enough? To: "'KRnet'" Message-ID: <000201c4c036$792f0c70$8364a8c0@home> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii" Anyone not sure how wide to make the boat? It is generally accepted that the standard KR cockpit is just not wide enough at 34". I am a relatively "wide" guy, so I read everything I could find, particularly the opinions of the guys that were already flying their airplanes. I also noted what more recent kits /plans were doing in this dept. Still not convinced, I did all the usual stuff arranging the dining room chairs in various ways and measuring everyone that walked by. I eventually convinced myself that nothing less than 47" would do. The well stretched fuselage (15' back from the firewall) helped to disguise the bulge in the fuse which moved aft to about shoulder position. All was well. Then I settled on the Jabiru engine and everything changed. The cowl only needed to be 24" wide - that is 7" narrower than the VW (6" smaller than the Corvair). Now the bulge looked really silly - the nose was just too pointy. Issssshh This last week I travelled down to the lower Zambezi to recover a crashed C172. The wreck was transported back to my house where my kid is stripping it down for the insurance company. Today I was looking at it - the cabin really looked real narrow. I found a tape measure and checked - 39" at the widest point (shoulder position). That really shook me guys - I was trying to go 8" wider than a Cessna 172. Hope this saves someone some sleep. Steve J ------------------------------ Message: 8 Date: Mon, 1 Nov 2004 12:56:11 EST From: RENOSADLER@aol.com Subject: Re: KR> prop To: krnet@mylist.net Message-ID: Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII" I have an old warnake prop that i'd like to have checked for airthiness tryied to find warnake no luck anybody know if there still in busniess Or who doe's this sort of work? thanks Bill ------------------------------ Message: 9 Date: Mon, 01 Nov 2004 12:20:42 -0600 From: "Oscar Zuniga" Subject: KR> prop To: krnet@mylist.net Message-ID: Content-Type: text/plain; format=flowed Bill asks- >I have an old Warnke prop that i'd like to have checked for >airworthiness tried to find Warnke no luck anybody know if they're >still in business Or who does this sort of work? Here's some info from the RV list: Clark Lydick Performance Propellers P.O.Box 486 Patagonia, AZ, 85624 520-394-2059...Knows Warnke props very well and... Margie Warnke Propellers P.M.B. 193 3906 west Ina Rd. #200 Tucson AZ 85741-2295 520-884-8132 =========================== Oscar Zuniga San Antonio, TX mailto: taildrags@hotmail.com website at http://www.flysquirrel.net ------------------------------ Message: 10 Date: Mon, 1 Nov 2004 19:36:20 GMT From: "jscott.pilot@juno.com" Subject: Re: KR> prop To: krnet@mylist.net Message-ID: <20041101.113824.506.216118@webmail16.lax.untd.com> Content-Type: text/plain A little history lesson here. Bernie Warnke died a few years back. Margie Warnke took over the businss, but is no longer in the prop business. Clark Lydick (Performance Propellers) is Margie Warnke's ex and learned the business from Bernie, so knows the Warnke props quite well. I've had Clark build me three props and will vouch for his workmanship. Give him a call. Jeff Scott -- "Oscar Zuniga" wrote: Bill asks- >I have an old Warnke prop that i'd like to have checked for >airworthiness tried to find Warnke no luck anybody know if they're >still in business Or who does this sort of work? Here's some info from the RV list: Clark Lydick Performance Propellers P.O.Box 486 Patagonia, AZ, 85624 520-394-2059...Knows Warnke props very well and... Margie Warnke Propellers P.M.B. 193 3906 west Ina Rd. #200 Tucson AZ 85741-2295 520-884-8132 =========================== Oscar Zuniga San Antonio, TX mailto: taildrags@hotmail.com website at http://www.flysquirrel.net _______________________________________ to UNsubscribe from KRnet, send a message to KRnet-leave@mylist.net please see other KRnet info at http://www.krnet.org/info.html ________________________________________________________________ Speed up your surfing with Juno SpeedBand. Now includes pop-up blocker! Only $14.95/ month - visit http://www.juno.com/surf to sign up today! ------------------------------ Message: 11 Date: Mon, 1 Nov 2004 17:32:57 -0500 (Eastern Standard Time) From: "Dan Heath" Subject: Re: KR> VE Resin To: "krnet@mylist.net" Message-ID: <4186B999.000001.02500@DANHOMECOMPUTER> Content-Type: Text/Plain; charset="iso-8859-1" VE will re-bond to itself, but not to other resins. Dan Diehl just told me to scuff it all the way down to the glass if I was not going to use VE and because of the small amount of resin that I was going to need, advised me not to bother with VE if I would sand it down as he prescribed. So, I suggest that if you still have a lot of glass work to do bonding to VE keep going with the VE. However, I think that it is the most difficult of all the resins, to work with because of the sticky outer layer. It has that layer because it is made to be used in LAMINATIONS, putting one layer on top of another. If that is not your purpose, then you are better off to stay away from the Esters. There is a time for building and a time for FLYING and the time for building has expired. See N64KR at http://KR-Builder.org - Then click on the pics Daniel R. Heath - Columbia, SC See you in Mt. Vernon - 2005 - KR Gathering ------------------------------ Message: 12 Date: Mon, 1 Nov 2004 18:22:56 -0600 From: "Jim Faughn" Subject: RE: KR> VE Resin To: "'KRnet'" Message-ID: <001101c4c072$19fe08a0$22d55540@jfaughn> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii" I used VE to build all glass parts of my plane. I also talked to Dan quite often in the process. Dan always told me that the advantage to VE was it chemically bonds to itself and you don't have to sand between layers. I didn't sand between layers and my plane seems to be holding together fine in the fiberglass area. Just a word of experience. I've always been a proponent of VE because of the lack of allergic reaction problems which I have way too many already. Jim Faughn 891JF -----Original Message----- From: krnet-bounces@mylist.net [mailto:krnet-bounces@mylist.net] On Behalf Of Dan Heath Sent: Monday, November 01, 2004 4:33 PM To: krnet@mylist.net Subject: Re: KR> VE Resin VE will re-bond to itself, but not to other resins. Dan Diehl just told me to scuff it all the way down to the glass if I was not going to use VE and because of the small amount of resin that I was going to need, advised me not to bother with VE if I would sand it down as he prescribed. So, I suggest that if you still have a lot of glass work to do bonding to VE keep going with the VE. However, I think that it is the most difficult of all the resins, to work with because of the sticky outer layer. It has that layer because it is made to be used in LAMINATIONS, putting one layer on top of another. If that is not your purpose, then you are better off to stay away from the Esters. There is a time for building and a time for FLYING and the time for building has expired. See N64KR at http://KR-Builder.org - Then click on the pics Daniel R. Heath - Columbia, SC See you in Mt. Vernon - 2005 - KR Gathering _______________________________________ to UNsubscribe from KRnet, send a message to KRnet-leave@mylist.net please see other KRnet info at http://www.krnet.org/info.html ------------------------------ Message: 13 Date: Mon, 1 Nov 2004 20:07:35 EST From: RENOSADLER@aol.com Subject: Re: KR> prop To: krnet@mylist.net Message-ID: <1ac.2adf8ffb.2eb837d7@aol.com> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII" Thanks for info on the warnke prop, going to PHX next week will call Bernie tell him ya said Hi..... ------------------------------ Message: 14 Date: Mon, 1 Nov 2004 20:13:56 -0500 (Eastern Standard Time) From: "Dan Heath" Subject: RE: KR> VE Resin To: "krnet@mylist.net" Message-ID: <4186DF54.000001.01612@DANHOMECOMPUTER> Content-Type: Text/Plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Jim, How do you sand the stuff and how do you control the cure rate when you have the stuff for a long time? I like the bonding characteristics. If people are going to use it, they need to know how to finish it. I have never been able to figure that out. The ailerons that Dan made for us, just gum up when sanding, even when using 36 grit paper. It is like bondo, until you get that outer gummy skin off of it, it is impossible to sand. There is a time for building and a time for FLYING and the time for building has expired. See N64KR at http://KR-Builder.org - Then click on the pics Daniel R. Heath - Columbia, SC See you in Mt. Vernon - 2005 - KR Gathering ------------------------------ Message: 15 Date: Mon, 1 Nov 2004 17:35:42 -0800 (PST) From: Matthew Elder Subject: Re: KR> VE Resin To: KRnet Message-ID: <20041102013542.54393.qmail@web13911.mail.yahoo.com> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Yea, I'm just making fuel tanks with it. I may use it for other things later on because I like how it works and flows out, and I actually prefer the smell to that of epoxy... To your other post, there is a styrene wax additive that you can buy, that will help cure the outer layer of resin. You just mix it in with the resin. This will prevent the water molecules in the air from getting into the resin and lets it cure completely (read without the tack).... Such as the information I've read says... I'll let you know when I try it :-) Thanks for the bonding information though... I was thinking that you could, but just wanted to make sure before I went all crazy building stuff with it... Matt http://kr1.infinigral.com Dan Heath wrote: VE will re-bond to itself, but not to other resins. Dan Diehl just told me to scuff it all the way down to the glass if I was not going to use VE and because of the small amount of resin that I was going to need, advised me not to bother with VE if I would sand it down as he prescribed. So, I suggest that if you still have a lot of glass work to do bonding to VE keep going with the VE. However, I think that it is the most difficult of all the resins, to work with because of the sticky outer layer. It has that layer because it is made to be used in LAMINATIONS, putting one layer on top of another. If that is not your purpose, then you are better off to stay away from the Esters. There is a time for building and a time for FLYING and the time for building has expired. See N64KR at http://KR-Builder.org - Then click on the pics Daniel R. Heath - Columbia, SC See you in Mt. Vernon - 2005 - KR Gathering _______________________________________ to UNsubscribe from KRnet, send a message to KRnet-leave@mylist.net please see other KRnet info at http://www.krnet.org/info.html ------------------------------------------------- Matthew Elder Orangeburg, SC http://www.infinigral.com/melder ------------------------------ _______________________________________________ See KRnet list details at http://www.krnet.org/instructions.html End of KRnet Digest, Vol 346, Issue 188 *************************************** ================================== ABC Amber Outlook Converter v4.20 Trial version ==================================