From: krnet-bounces@mylist.net To: John Bouyea Subject: KRnet Digest, Vol 346, Issue 246 Date: 12/19/2004 8:59:06 PM Send KRnet mailing list submissions to krnet@mylist.net To subscribe or unsubscribe via the World Wide Web, visit http://mylist.net/listinfo/krnet or, via email, send a message with subject or body 'help' to krnet-request@mylist.net You can reach the person managing the list at krnet-owner@mylist.net When replying, please edit your Subject line so it is more specific than "Re: Contents of KRnet digest..." Today's Topics: 1. Re: Mold release (Dennis Mingear) 2. Re: Corvair engine (Mark Langford) 3. Joining cowling halves (Brian Kraut) 4. Re: when buying a half built project.... (Phillip Matheson) 5. KR1 Washout (RENOSADLER@aol.com) 6. Re: Props (Mark Langford) ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Message: 1 Date: Sun, 19 Dec 2004 05:28:43 -0800 (PST) From: Dennis Mingear Subject: Re: KR> Mold release To: KRnet Message-ID: <20041219132843.10131.qmail@web51403.mail.yahoo.com> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii One coat of carnauba wax on the mold is not enough. If we all want a chance to use this cowling mold then some care will have to be taken with it. If not then at some time a small place in the mold is going to stick to the part and the mold will be damaged seperating the parts. First make sure that the cowling mold is very clean. Then apply at least 5 coats of carnauba wax. Make sure that it is a silicon free product! Then apply 2 or 3 coats of PVA There is some good info here; http://www.fiberlay.com/howto/issue1.htm#2 http://www.fiber-tek.com/Bulletins/fiberglass_part.htm I have tons of good info at home on this subject, but finding good basic info on the internet has not been easy this morning. Just make sure that the mold is clean, well waxed with silicon free carnauba ( at least 5 coats) and that 2 or 3 coats of PVA is evenly applied. And please make sure that there is no silicon in any of the products that you use. That could really muck things up. Denny ... Randy Smith wrote: The wax has been used a lot longer than most of the mold releases out there. Just make sure the wax has carnaba in it. ----- Original Message ----- From: "Scott Cable" To: "KRnet" Sent: Saturday, December 18, 2004 6:57 PM Subject: Re: KR> Mold release > Guys, > Why risk damaging the mold? I can tell you from personal experience, > that everyone has their "ideas" about what works for mold release, but > if you try this methods, you risk damaging Mark's mold. Personally, I > wouldn't want to face > Mark's fury over it. Do the safe tried and true methods. Buy the Mold > release and parting agent. > > > > > Scott Cable > KR-2S # 735 > Wright City, MO > s2cable1@yahoo.com __________________________________________________ > Do You Yahoo!? > Tired of spam? Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around > http://mail.yahoo.com > _______________________________________ > Search the KRnet Archives at http://www.maddyhome.com/krsrch/index.jsp > to UNsubscribe from KRnet, send a message to KRnet-leave@mylist.net > > please see other KRnet info at http://www.krnet.org/info.html > _______________________________________ Search the KRnet Archives at http://www.maddyhome.com/krsrch/index.jsp to UNsubscribe from KRnet, send a message to KRnet-leave@mylist.net please see other KRnet info at http://www.krnet.org/info.html __________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? Tired of spam? Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around http://mail.yahoo.com ------------------------------ Message: 2 Date: Sun, 19 Dec 2004 15:30:42 -0600 From: "Mark Langford" Subject: Re: KR> Corvair engine To: "KRnet" Message-ID: <02a001c4e612$004554c0$0202a8c0@2600xp> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Jef wrote: > I'm not even a newby, just a Wannabe Newby. But if I was a Newby and wanted an engine for my potential KR2s project and I thought a Corvair engine would be a good choice, would I be wise to look for a 180 turbo? Or would a 110hp or other Corvair be just fine, considering I would have an engine builder go through it & build it to certain souped-up specs? < You don't want a 180 hp Corvair engine. Save that for the Corvair fanatics, who all want one a lot worse than you do! Just about any 1965 or later 110 will do, and some 95s, but no 140's. There are several good sites you can visit for more info on which engine you need. Start with http://home.hiwaay.net/~langford/corvair/donors.html , which has links to several more. And be sure to buy William Wynne's manual first thing. It has all the answers. I wish I had a dollar for every sad story about people who've bought an engine or two before buying his manual, and then discovered they had a boat anchor. If somebody GIVES you a 140 or a 180, by all means take it, and then trade parts with a car fanatic and you'll come out ahead in the end... Mark Langford, Huntsville, Alabama see homebuilt airplane at http://home.hiwaay.net/~langford email to N56ML "at" hiwaay.net ------------------------------ Message: 3 Date: Sun, 19 Dec 2004 17:32:08 -0500 From: "Brian Kraut" Subject: KR> Joining cowling halves To: "KRnet" Message-ID: Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii" I am going to use the hinge method of joining the top and bottom cowl halves. The holes for monting the cowl to the firewall are already done. I am guessing that the best way to do this is as follows. Am I doing anytihing wrong? 1. fasten bottom cowl half to the firewall 2. drill bottom cowl half and hinge section and cleco hinge to cowl 3. fasten top cowl half to the firewall 4. drill through top cowl half and top hinge half and cleco as far back as I am able to get my hand through the cowl and hold the hinge to the cowl while I am drilling 5. remove the whole shebang from the plane and drill any top cleco holes that could not be drilled while on the plane 6. separate hinge halves by removing hinge pin 7. remove clecos 8. sand hinge and cowl and apply epoxy 9. rivet hinges to cowl while epoxy is wet Brian Kraut Engineering Alternatives, Inc. www.engalt.com ------------------------------ Message: 4 Date: Sun, 19 Dec 2004 12:51:05 +1100 From: "Phillip Matheson" Subject: Re: KR> when buying a half built project.... To: "KRnet" Message-ID: <000201c4e626$a92b00d0$ecb0dccb@StationW2k04> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" David.wrote: I am looking at buying a half built project. All the woodwork seems to be done and has Diehl skins that I can take with this plane. I was wondering ------------------------------------------------------- Dave. This can be a concern, I have been through the same thing, and can only say, Try and get someone who has experience in timber aircraft to have a look at the workmanship. Look at the retail price of the parts supplied, instruments, Diehl skins ETC. and try to work out a price. I could not or did not know anyone at the time to inspect my project, and had to remove the Diehl skins on my 2nd hand KR2 and remake both wings and spars due to wrong wash outs, very poor workmanship and twisted main spars and lost over 12 months of rebuilding. If the price is OK then it MAY be OK. Sorry, but there is no hard and fast rules.YOU are the one that has to be happy. Phillip Matheson matheson@dodo.com.au Australia VH PKR See our engines and kits at. http://www.vw-engines.com/ http://www.homebuilt-aviation.com/ See my KR Construction web page at http://mywebpage.netscape.com/FlyingKRPhil/VHPKR.html ------------------------------ Message: 5 Date: Sun, 19 Dec 2004 20:18:14 EST From: RENOSADLER@aol.com Subject: KR> KR1 Washout To: krnet@mylist.net Message-ID: <87.1d44d876.2ef78256@aol.com> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII" Is there anyway to check the washout when the wings are finished ? Not sure they were set right, If it's wrong is it easier to just start over new spars ribs cover ect.. this is on a KR1 project... ------------------------------ Message: 6 Date: Sun, 19 Dec 2004 20:08:13 -0600 From: "Mark Langford" Subject: Re: KR> Props To: "KRnet" Message-ID: <002e01c4e638$c310c630$0202a8c0@2600xp> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Mark Jones wrote: > I have a couple of VW props that I was thinking about having SAE-1 > bolt pattern drilled into them. This would allow us to test the prop > on both VW and Corvair. What are your thoughts on having two bolt > patterns on the same > prop? I was going to do exactly that to big VW/small Corvair props back when I was going to do the prop bank myself. My prop is a Sterba that was drilled for both patterns by Sterba at the request of the original owner, Steve Makish. Aircraft Spruce sells a steel SAE1 "crush plate" that could be taken to a machine shop and also drilled for the VW pattern, which could then be used as a drill template with a drill press to open up the VW holes, or visa versa. I would drill it from the back side to make sure the bolts line up with the flange, just in case the drill press isn't exactly perpendicular to the table. Another consideration is the size of the clearance hole in the back of the prop. I think it was 2.0" when I got it (for VW), and it needed to be 2.25" for my Corvair prop hub, so I enlarged it with a forstner bit. Mark Langford, Huntsville, Alabama see homebuilt airplane at http://home.hiwaay.net/~langford email to N56ML "at" hiwaay.net ------------------------------ _______________________________________________ See KRnet list details at http://www.krnet.org/instructions.html End of KRnet Digest, Vol 346, Issue 246 *************************************** ================================== ABC Amber Outlook Converter v4.20 Trial version ==================================