From: krnet-bounces@mylist.net To: John Bouyea Subject: KRnet Digest, Vol 346, Issue 82 Date: 5/23/2004 9:00:37 PM Send KRnet mailing list submissions to krnet@mylist.net To subscribe or unsubscribe via the World Wide Web, visit http://mylist.net/listinfo/krnet or, via email, send a message with subject or body 'help' to krnet-request@mylist.net You can reach the person managing the list at krnet-owner@mylist.net When replying, please edit your Subject line so it is more specific than "Re: Contents of KRnet digest..." Today's Topics: 1. Re: Terra Transponder for sale on E-bay (Marty Hammersmith) 2. Re: Terra Transponder for sale on E-bay (Mark Jones) 3. Ground Plane (Mark Jones) 4. need more building info (lee van dyke) 5. Re: Ground Plane (JEHayward@aol.com) 6. Re: Ground Plane (Orma) 7. Re: Ground Plane (Allen G. Wiesner) 8. Groundplanes (JIM VANCE) 9. Aileron Hardware (Allen G. Wiesner ) 10. Aileron Hardware (Allen G. Wiesner ) 11. Aileron Hardware (Allen G. Wiesner ) 12. Re: Aileron Hardware (Allen G. Wiesner) 13. RE: Aileron Hardware (Brian Kraut) 14. Push tube (Colin & Bev Rainey) 15. Ground Plane (larry flesner) 16. Re: Aileron Hardware (Dan Heath) 17. Re: need more building info (Dan Heath) 18. Re: need more building info (Ross Evans) 19. Re: Ground Plane (Rick Human) ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Message: 1 Date: Sun, 23 May 2004 02:28:49 -0400 From: "Marty Hammersmith" Subject: Re: KR> Terra Transponder for sale on E-bay To: "KRnet" Message-ID: <003301c4408f$36086f80$9050bf3f@marty> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" I agree. I'm actually the one that bid it up to $150. I think the ad is a carefully worded deception personally and decided that as a core it wasn't worth more. He is emphatic about "as is, no warranty" and specifically states the faceplate is in excellent condition. If I were a betting man I'd say the unit most likely doesn't work. ----- Original Message ----- From: "Orma" To: "KRnet" Sent: Saturday, May 22, 2004 5:18 PM Subject: Re: KR> Terra Transponder for sale on E-bay > "It is item 2479637657 ($15.50)" > The Item is currently 152.50, The seller says "as is" and only states that > the face plate is in excellent condition. He never says that it even works. > , He says as removed, Be Careful > > Orma > Southfield, MI > N110LR Soon to celebrate 20 years > > > > _______________________________________ > to UNsubscribe from KRnet, send a message to KRnet-leave@mylist.net > please see other KRnet info at http://www.krnet.org/info.html > ------------------------------ Message: 2 Date: Sun, 23 May 2004 07:52:15 -0500 From: "Mark Jones" Subject: Re: KR> Terra Transponder for sale on E-bay To: "KRnet" Message-ID: <001501c440c4$c6651ee0$6401a8c0@wi.rr.com> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" For those interested in this transponder, you can call the seller and ask about it at the following link. I have bought from them and they are at every air show. Here is the link to their web site: http://www.jaair.com/home.php Mark Jones (N886MJ) Wales, WI USA E-mail me at flykr2s@wi.rr.com Visit my KR-2S CorvAIRCRAFT web site at http://mywebpage.netscape.com/n886mj/homepage.html ----- Original Message ----- From: "Marty Hammersmith" > I agree. I'm actually the one that bid it up to $150. I think the ad > is a carefully worded deception personally and decided that as a core > it wasn't worth more. He is emphatic about "as is, no warranty" and > specifically states the faceplate is in excellent condition. If I were > a betting man I'd > say the unit most likely doesn't work. > ----- Original Message ----- > From: "Orma" > > "It is item 2479637657 ($15.50)" > > The Item is currently 152.50, The seller says "as is" and only > > states > that > > the face plate is in excellent condition. He never says that it > > even > works. > > , He says as removed, Be Careful _______________________ ------------------------------ Message: 3 Date: Sun, 23 May 2004 15:09:16 -0500 From: "Mark Jones" Subject: KR> Ground Plane To: "KR Net" Message-ID: <004101c44101$d3cfcc00$6401a8c0@wi.rr.com> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" My ELT manual states that if the antenna is being used on an non metallic surface, such as wood or fiberglass, A ground plane must also be installed. The manual does not specify the diameter or size the ground plane should be. I have looked through Tony Bingelis' books and have done a search on ELT but have not found anything on ground plane size for an ELT antenna. Does anyone have experience or suggestions? Mark Jones (N886MJ) Wales, WI USA E-mail me at flykr2s@wi.rr.com Visit my KR-2S CorvAIRCRAFT web site at http://mywebpage.netscape.com/n886mj/homepage.html ------------------------------ Message: 4 Date: Sun, 23 May 2004 13:35:31 -0700 From: "lee van dyke" Subject: KR> need more building info To: "KRnet" Message-ID: <000801c44105$7e9125a0$8101a8c0@robb> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Netters, Thank you for the help and guidence that you have given up to this point. with the tail wheel and rear post of the fin. I combine 2 different ideas into one to come up with the answer. I will have photos of the end result later. I'm in need of some more Ideas and help. 1 I want to replace my pull pull linkage on my elevator, with a pushrod from the stick to the rear of the seat. To do this it appears that I will have to bore a hole through the main stub wing spar?? I will then have a horn behind the seat with a pull pull linkage to the elevator. How to put a hole in the spar, can I do that? What size pushrod? How long? 2. Next I need to see if anybody has photos of the baffeling for their 1835 vw. Do you need to vent or keep cool the fuelator? Ken R. had a problem of this once. 3. Antenas, where to put one? So far I think the best spot for mine right now is in the turtle deck cover, stuck to the inside. A/S sells a stick on antena, has anybody tried to put on there?? Lee Van Dyke vandyke5.com lee@vandyke5.com N783JB ------------------------------ Message: 5 Date: Sun, 23 May 2004 16:16:20 EDT From: JEHayward@aol.com Subject: Re: KR> Ground Plane To: krnet@mylist.net Message-ID: <148.2a5c85f9.2de26094@aol.com> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII" In a message dated 5/23/04 2:08:47 PM Mountain Daylight Time, flykr2s@wi.rr.com writes: << I have looked through Tony Bingelis' books and have done a search on ELT but have not found anything on ground plane size for an ELT antenna. Does anyone have experience or suggestions? >> If you think about what the frequency is (121.5 MHz) then you'll understand that a ground plane would be the same size as a comm antenna ground plane. Jim ------------------------------ Message: 6 Date: Sun, 23 May 2004 16:50:02 -0400 From: "Orma" Subject: Re: KR> Ground Plane To: "KRnet" Message-ID: <000c01c44107$85be3c30$ba32d445@ROBBINS1> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Hello Mark My ground plane is made of chicken wire and is stapled under the shelf, behind my seat. It is directly below the com antenna. It measures 18" by 12", and works good. the reception seems normal. It is hard to compare with other aircraft due to the lower power of the Com's that I have been using. My old 7 watt RST radio used to go out about 35 miles @ 5,000 ft. Orma Southfield, MI N110LR Soon to celebrate 20 years ------------------------------ Message: 7 Date: Sun, 23 May 2004 17:05:36 -0400 From: "Allen G. Wiesner" Subject: Re: KR> Ground Plane To: "KRnet" Message-ID: <002101c44109$b29c37f0$1aec4345@CPQ25208480116> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" >My ELT manual states that if the antenna is being used on an non >metallic surface, such as wood or >fiberglass, A ground plane must also >be installed. The manual does not specify the diameter or size the >>ground plane should be. Generally, a ground plane is 1/4 of the wavelength (or some ODD multiple); for 121.5 MHz, that works out to 24 1/4" (that also happens to be 3/4 wavelength for 243 MHz). The ground plane does not have to be a solid sheet of metal, as little as 3 strips spaced 120 degrees apart will work, 4 strips at 90 is better. RST Engineering ( http://www.rst-engr.com ) sells 1/4" self-adhesive copper tape that works very well. Just be sure to make good electrical contact between the strips and between the strips and the outside (ground/shield) of the antenna. Allen G. Wiesner KR-2S/TD S/N 1118 65 Franklin Street Ansonia, CT 06401 (203) 732-0508 flashyal@usadatanet.net ------------------------------ Message: 8 Date: Sun, 23 May 2004 16:30:08 -0500 From: "JIM VANCE" Subject: KR> Groundplanes To: "krnet" Message-ID: <002801c4410d$7ccff400$0600a8c0@oemcomputer> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" A groundplane should have a radius at least 5% longer than the driven antenna. That means that a true groundplane for 121.5 megahertz would need to be about 52 inches in diameter. For our small KR's, the best alternative is to use a counterpoise made up of the braid of the coaxial cable that is about 5% longer than the driven element. I put my antenna about two feet behind the seat on the sidewall with the feedpoint about midway up the sidewall. The driven element was floxed into place vertically, with the top curving toward the center of the turtledeck. The braid counterpoise was floxed down the sidewall, then across the floor of the fuselage. I have used this type of antenna in my Renegade with excellent results. Jim Vance Vance@ClaflinWildcats.com ------------------------------ Message: 9 Date: Sun, 23 May 2004 17:41:40 -0400 From: "Allen G. Wiesner " Subject: KR> Aileron Hardware To: "KRnet" Message-ID: <000701c4410f$34d3ff00$1aec4345@CPQ25208480116> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" The instructions and drawings on the ailerons are a little unclear and I'd like to check my assumptions. 1. The hinge is p/n MS200001-P5? 2. The text calls for "8/32" pan head ?bolts?" (I assume he meant screws) but the drawing shows countersunk screws which seems more logical for clearance purposes. I plan to use MS24694 screws. 3. The text calls for the nutplates to be floxed directly to the spars, NO backup plates. Has anybody used nutplate channel strips or other methods to provide for backup plates? Also, the drawing on page 88 shows elastic stop nuts. Allen G. Wiesner KR-2S/TD S/N 1118 65 Franklin Street Ansonia, CT 06401 (203) 732-0508 flashyal@usadatanet.net ------------------------------ Message: 10 Date: Sun, 23 May 2004 17:45:13 -0400 From: "Allen G. Wiesner " Subject: KR> Aileron Hardware To: "KRnet" Message-ID: <000b01c4410f$3b889c20$1aec4345@CPQ25208480116> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" The instructions and drawings on the ailerons are a little unclear and I'd like to check my assumptions. 1. The hinge is p/n MS200001-P5? 2. The text calls for "8/32" pan head ?bolts?" (I assume he meant screws) but the drawing shows countersunk screws which seems more logical for clearance purposes. I plan to use MS24694 screws. 3. The text calls for the nutplates to be floxed directly to the spars, NO backup plates. Has anybody used nutplate channel strips or other methods to provide for backup plates? Also, the drawing on page 88 shows elastic stop nuts. Allen G. Wiesner KR-2S/TD S/N 1118 65 Franklin Street Ansonia, CT 06401 (203) 732-0508 flashyal@usadatanet.net ------------------------------ Message: 11 Date: Sun, 23 May 2004 17:47:09 -0400 From: "Allen G. Wiesner " Subject: KR> Aileron Hardware To: "KRnet" Message-ID: <001e01c4410f$8067aed0$1aec4345@CPQ25208480116> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" The instructions and drawings on the ailerons are a little unclear and I'd like to check my assumptions. 1. The hinge is p/n MS200001-P5? 2. The text calls for "8/32" pan head ?bolts?" (I assume he meant screws) but the drawing shows countersunk screws which seems more logical for clearance purposes. I plan to use MS24694 screws. 3. The text calls for the nutplates to be floxed directly to the spars, NO backup plates. Has anybody used nutplate channel strips or other methods to provide for backup plates? Also, the drawing on page 88 shows elastic stop nuts. Allen G. Wiesner KR-2S/TD S/N 1118 65 Franklin Street Ansonia, CT 06401 (203) 732-0508 flashyal@usadatanet.net ------------------------------ Message: 12 Date: Sun, 23 May 2004 17:52:21 -0400 From: "Allen G. Wiesner" Subject: Re: KR> Aileron Hardware To: "KRnet" Message-ID: <000601c44110$3a2f5840$1aec4345@CPQ25208480116> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Sorry for the multiple xmissions, I kept getting a failure to send msg. Allen G. Wiesner KR-2S/TD S/N 1118 65 Franklin Street Ansonia, CT 06401 (203) 732-0508 flashyal@usadatanet.net ------------------------------ Message: 13 Date: Sun, 23 May 2004 18:52:39 -0400 From: "Brian Kraut" Subject: RE: KR> Aileron Hardware To: "KRnet" Message-ID: Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii" MS20001P6 is what you get from Rand and what was on my last KR, although if you scale one of the drawings in the manual it works out to P4. You should be fine with P5, but P4 is thinner aluminum. Should be screws. My last KR came with pan head screws. The screws on each side of the hinge were staggered by about a half inch so the heads wouldn't hit each other and the hinges had a hole on the side opposite the other head so it would recess into the hinge when closed. When I replaced the hinges I used countersunk screws. Both methods worked fine. Be sure to use aircraft 100 degree screws, not regular 82 degree countersunk screws that don't have enough surface area. I removed regular hardware type T nuts and replaced them with nut plates floxed directly to the back side of the wood. The T nuts are more than strong enough and you can get them in stainless from Ace Hardware which should be fine. The reason I used nutplates is because I wanted them to be self locking. I used the F5000-08 all metal nut plates and they are a little too self locking. It is hard to get a screw in or out without stripping the head. I put them in my vise and un-ovaled them a little so they were not so tight. I would use nylon locking nut plates next time. Brian Kraut Engineering Alternatives, Inc. www.engalt.com -----Original Message----- From: krnet-bounces@mylist.net [mailto:krnet-bounces@mylist.net]On Behalf Of Allen G. Wiesner Sent: Sunday, May 23, 2004 5:45 PM To: KRnet Subject: KR> Aileron Hardware The instructions and drawings on the ailerons are a little unclear and I'd like to check my assumptions. 1. The hinge is p/n MS200001-P5? 2. The text calls for "8/32" pan head ?bolts?" (I assume he meant screws) but the drawing shows countersunk screws which seems more logical for clearance purposes. I plan to use MS24694 screws. 3. The text calls for the nutplates to be floxed directly to the spars, NO backup plates. Has anybody used nutplate channel strips or other methods to provide for backup plates? Also, the drawing on page 88 shows elastic stop nuts. Allen G. Wiesner KR-2S/TD S/N 1118 65 Franklin Street Ansonia, CT 06401 (203) 732-0508 flashyal@usadatanet.net _______________________________________ to UNsubscribe from KRnet, send a message to KRnet-leave@mylist.net please see other KRnet info at http://www.krnet.org/info.html ------------------------------ Message: 14 Date: Sun, 23 May 2004 19:13:52 -0400 From: "Colin & Bev Rainey" Subject: KR> Push tube To: Message-ID: <008301c4411b$9d7046c0$99ef0843@RaineyDay> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Lee Van Dyke Look at my sight and you will see how I used the plans holes through the spar for locating the pushtube and used a bellcrank to both transfer the action and de-tune the sensitivity of the elevator. I used 5/8 diameter 6160-T6 tubing from AS&S and end inserts for the run from stick to bellcrank. From the bellcranks to the elevator, I went through the hole already there from the cable and connected to the bottom of the elevator. AS&S sells a fitting that fits into the end of the 5/8 tubing just fine and can be cross bolted in place or riveted, your choice. The length of the run on the standard KR2 requires at least 1 inch diameter thin wall that must be adapted down to your connection fittings. AS&S has a chart that I used for ordering tubing. Any run more than 5 feet in length is going to need at least 1 1/2inch diameter tubing for the compression strength necessary for proper safe operation. Both the Thorp T-18 and RV series aircraft use these sizes trouble free. If in doubt go with the next larger tubing size. Dana Overall has a parts list if you ask nicely that I am sure he will e-mail you on parts to make a safe tubing for the KR. If you have an S model with the longer fuselage, you will definitely need to go with the larger diameter tubing, and then adapt it down for your fittings. The other questions you have can be answered by studying Mark Langford's site, mine which is ideas taken from several others, and on down the list. Study there first and you will save all kinds of time asking questions and wracking your own brain trying to figure it out. Colin & Bev Rainey KR2(td) N96TA Sanford, FL crainey1@cfl.rr.com http://kr-builder.org/Colin/index.html ------------------------------ Message: 15 Date: Sun, 23 May 2004 18:17:53 -0500 From: larry flesner Subject: KR> Ground Plane To: KRnet Message-ID: <3.0.6.32.20040523181753.0084ac80@pop.midwest.net> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii" >My ELT manual states that if the antenna is being used on an non >metallic surface, such as wood or fiberglass, A ground plane must also be installed. The >Mark Jones (N886MJ) ++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++ My main com antenna does not require a ground plane and works quite well. They are advertised in sport aviation and go for about $100+. I often hear transmissions from 50+ miles away and I'm always loud and clear from the local towers at 15+ miles and I'm using a handheld. http://www.advancedaircraft.com/ For my ELT antenna ground plane I used "tin foil" from my wife's kitchen. My antenna is mounted to a floor cross-member behind the seat about 24" or so. I used "spray adheasive" to mount the foil and then made sure it had good contact with the antenna base mount (ground). It makes my handheld radio SCREAM when I test the ELT so I guess it's working. Some discussion took place on mounting, inside vs. outside. For best aerodynamics mount all antennas inside if possible. In addition, for the ELT, I'd want mine mounted inside in a KR (non-metalic) so there is less chance of it turning to "rubble" at just the time when you need it. Larry Flesner ------------------------------ Message: 16 Date: Sun, 23 May 2004 19:40:14 -0400 (Eastern Standard Time) From: "Dan Heath" Subject: Re: KR> Aileron Hardware To: "krnet@mylist.net" Message-ID: <40B1365E.000004.01920@COMPUTER> Content-Type: Text/Plain; charset="iso-8859-1" 1. The hinge is p/n MS200001-P5? Don't know the part number without looking it up, but it is an extruded aluminum hinge. 2. The text calls for "8/32" pan head ?bolts?" (I assume he meant screws) but the drawing shows countersunk screws which seems more logical for clearance purposes. I plan to use MS24694 screws. That part number looks familiar. Recessed 100 degree. 3. The text calls for the nutplates to be floxed directly to the spars, NO backup plates. Did not use back up plates, did not use flox. Riveted nutplates directly to the back of the aileron spar. Do not use the floating type, they will eat your screws, but the fixed ones are much more forgiving. You can also get some BoeLube ( or wax ) to make them go in easier. The fiber lock are very expensive. There is a time for building and a time for flying, and the time for building has long since expired. See N64KR at http://KR-Builder.org - Then click on the pics Daniel R. Heath - Columbia, SC See you in Mt. Vernon - 2004 - KR Gathering See our EAA Chapter 242 at http://EAA242.org ------------------------------ Message: 17 Date: Sun, 23 May 2004 19:55:56 -0400 (Eastern Standard Time) From: "Dan Heath" Subject: Re: KR> need more building info To: "krnet@mylist.net" Message-ID: <40B13A0C.000006.01920@COMPUTER> Content-Type: Text/Plain; charset="iso-8859-1" 1 I want to replace my pull pull linkage on my elevator, with a pushrod from the stick to the rear of the seat. To do this it appears that I will have to bore a hole through the main stub wing spar?? Take a look at: http://kr-builder.org/ElevatorControl/index.html I can measure the tube if you are interested in this approach. The hole is only in the web and does not cut through any of the important stuff. We actually used the same hole that the cables went through. 3. Antennas, where to put one? So far I think the best spot for mine right now is in the turtle deck cover, stuck to the inside. A/S sells a stick on antenna, has anybody tried to put on there?? On my first KR, I put the nav, com, and elt antenna ( self contained on the elt ) behind the seat on the floor. On this KR, Jerry thought ahead and put the nav in the wing. We were going to put the com behind the seat on the floor, but we made our seats and seat back of carbon fiber, so we are going with an antenna like Marty's mounted in about the same place. OH, and for the other question about aileron hardware, take a look at: http://kr-builder.org/Aileron/index.html about 4 pics down on the page. There is a time for building and a time for flying, and the time for building has long since expired. See N64KR at http://KR-Builder.org - Then click on the pics Daniel R. Heath - Columbia, SC See you in Mt. Vernon - 2004 - KR Gathering See our EAA Chapter 242 at http://EAA242.org -------Original Message------- From: KRnet Date: 05/23/04 16:10:56 To: KRnet Subject: KR> need more building info Netters, Thank you for the help and guidence that you have given up to this point. with the tail wheel and rear post of the fin. I combine 2 different ideas into one to come up with the answer. I will have photos of the end result later. I'm in need of some more Ideas and help. 1 I want to replace my pull pull linkage on my elevator, with a pushrod from the stick to the rear of the seat. To do this it appears that I will have to bore a hole through the main stub wing spar?? I will then have a horn behind the seat with a pull pull linkage to the elevator. How to put a hole in the spar, can I do that? What size pushrod? How long? 2. Next I need to see if anybody has photos of the baffeling for their 1835 vw. Do you need to vent or keep cool the fuelator? Ken R. had a problem of this once. 3. Antenas, where to put one? So far I think the best spot for mine right now is in the turtle deck cover, stuck to the inside. A/S sells a stick on antena, has anybody tried to put on there?? Lee Van Dyke vandyke5.com lee@vandyke5.com N783JB _______________________________________ to UNsubscribe from KRnet, send a message to KRnet-leave@mylist.net please see other KRnet info at http://www.krnet.org/info.html ------------------------------ Message: 18 Date: Mon, 24 May 2004 12:47:17 +1000 From: "Ross Evans" Subject: Re: KR> need more building info To: krnet@mylist.net Message-ID: Content-Type: text/plain; format=flowed HI Dan I have looked at this idea to get rid of the top cable from the sling seat in case some one steps on it! If you have the new aerofoil the rear spar sits higher in the boat and the tube can run underneath I have a friend who is doing that and I noticed it when I was looking at his plane! I wanted to get rid of that top cable and put a rod through to the back of the seat and have a bellcrank from there but I don't want to bore a whole through a spar so I won't! May be you could plate the area but I would want an engineers oppinion! Sorry I can't give you an answer! cheers >From: "Dan Heath" >Reply-To: KRnet >To: "krnet@mylist.net" >Subject: Re: KR> need more building info >Date: Sun, 23 May 2004 19:55:56 -0400 (Eastern Standard Time) > >1 I want to replace my pull pull linkage on my elevator, with a pushrod >from >the stick to the rear of the seat. To do this it appears that I will have >to >bore a hole through the main stub wing spar?? > > > >Take a look at: > > > >http://kr-builder.org/ElevatorControl/index.html > > > >I can measure the tube if you are interested in this approach. The hole >is only in the web and does not cut through any of the important stuff. >We actually used the same hole that the cables went through. > > > >3. Antennas, where to put one? So far I think the best spot for mine >right now is in the turtle deck cover, stuck to the inside. A/S sells a >stick on antenna, has anybody tried to put on there?? > > > >On my first KR, I put the nav, com, and elt antenna ( self contained on >the elt ) behind the seat on the floor. On this KR, Jerry thought ahead >and put the nav in the wing. We were going to put the com behind the >seat on the floor, but we made our seats and seat back of carbon fiber, >so we are going with an antenna like Marty's mounted in about the same >place. > > > > > > > >OH, and for the other question about aileron hardware, take a look at: > > > >http://kr-builder.org/Aileron/index.html > > > >about 4 pics down on the page. > > > > > >There is a time for building and a time for flying, and the time for >building has long since expired. > > > >See N64KR at http://KR-Builder.org - Then click on the pics > > > >Daniel R. Heath - Columbia, SC > > > >See you in Mt. Vernon - 2004 - KR Gathering > > > >See our EAA Chapter 242 at http://EAA242.org > > > >-------Original Message------- > > > >From: KRnet > >Date: 05/23/04 16:10:56 > >To: KRnet > >Subject: KR> need more building info > > > >Netters, > > > >Thank you for the help and guidence that you have given up to this >point. with the tail wheel and rear post of the fin. I combine 2 >different ideas into one to come up with the answer. I will have photos >of the end result later. > > > >I'm in need of some more Ideas and help. > > > >1 I want to replace my pull pull linkage on my elevator, with a pushrod >from >the stick to the rear of the seat. To do this it appears that I will have >to >bore a hole through the main stub wing spar?? I will then have a horn >behind >the seat with a pull pull linkage to the elevator. How to put a hole in the >spar, can I do that? What size pushrod? How long? > > > >2. Next I need to see if anybody has photos of the baffeling for their >1835 vw. Do you need to vent or keep cool the fuelator? Ken R. had a >problem of this once. > > > >3. Antenas, where to put one? So far I think the best spot for mine >right now is in the turtle deck cover, stuck to the inside. A/S sells a >stick on antena, has anybody tried to put on there?? > > > >Lee Van Dyke > >vandyke5.com > >lee@vandyke5.com > >N783JB > >_______________________________________ > >to UNsubscribe from KRnet, send a message to KRnet-leave@mylist.net > >please see other KRnet info at http://www.krnet.org/info.html > > > >_______________________________________ >to UNsubscribe from KRnet, send a message to KRnet-leave@mylist.net >please see other KRnet info at http://www.krnet.org/info.html _________________________________________________________________ Personalise your phone with chart ringtones and polyphonics. Go to http://ringtones.com.au/ninemsn/control?page=/ninemsn/main.jsp ------------------------------ Message: 19 Date: Sun, 23 May 2004 22:32:47 -0500 From: "Rick Human" Subject: Re: KR> Ground Plane To: "KRnet" Message-ID: <002701c4413f$c8eae980$ddcadacf@desktop> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Mark - I asked the same question about two years ago and got similar answers. I just could not see how I was going to fit the necessary ground plane in the space available - So I got RST's antenna book (reprints from his Kitplanes articles) that spelled out the correct length for a ELT copper foil antenna with a baud (no ground plane required) - I ended up building one and placing it in the inside surface of the turtledeck. Rick Human Houston, Texas ----- Original Message ----- From: "Mark Jones" To: "KR Net" Sent: Sunday, May 23, 2004 3:09 PM Subject: KR> Ground Plane > My ELT manual states that if the antenna is being used on an non > metallic surface, such as wood or fiberglass, A ground plane must also be installed. The manual does not specify the diameter or size the ground plane should be. I have looked through Tony Bingelis' books and have done a search on ELT but have not found anything on ground plane size for an ELT antenna. Does anyone have experience or suggestions? > > Mark Jones (N886MJ) > Wales, WI USA > E-mail me at flykr2s@wi.rr.com > Visit my KR-2S CorvAIRCRAFT web site at > http://mywebpage.netscape.com/n886mj/homepage.html > > _______________________________________ > to UNsubscribe from KRnet, send a message to KRnet-leave@mylist.net > please see other KRnet info at http://www.krnet.org/info.html > ------------------------------ _______________________________________________ See KRnet list details at http://www.krnet.org/instructions.html End of KRnet Digest, Vol 346, Issue 82 ************************************** ================================== ABC Amber Outlook Converter v4.20 Trial version ==================================