From: krnet-bounces+johnbou=speakeasy.net@mylist.net To: John Bouyea Subject: KRnet Digest, Vol 346, Issue 95 Date: 8/29/2004 12:54:43 PM Send KRnet mailing list submissions to krnet@mylist.net To subscribe or unsubscribe via the World Wide Web, visit http://mylist.net/listinfo/krnet or, via email, send a message with subject or body 'help' to krnet-request@mylist.net You can reach the person managing the list at krnet-owner@mylist.net When replying, please edit your Subject line so it is more specific than "Re: Contents of KRnet digest..." Today's Topics: 1. Carbon Seat (Dean Cooper) 2. Corvair (Ray Fuenzalida) 3. Re: Carbon Seat (Dan Heath) 4. Carbon Fiber Seat (JIM VANCE) 5. Cowling joints (JIM VANCE) 6. Re: cowling (Dan Heath) 7. The Gathering (Mark Jones) 8. Re: Cowling joints (Mark Jones) 9. RE: Blower (francis fenlason) 10. Re: Carbon Seat (Mark Langford) 11. Re: Cowling joints (Mark Langford) 12. RE: Carbon Seat (Stephen Jacobs) 13. Re: pin connectors and crimp tool (Mark Langford) 14. Re: Carbon Seat (Mark Langford) 15. Fw: CorvAircraft> New Flyers: KR2S (Mark Langford) 16. Re: Orma's cowling problem / turbo cooling (larry severson) 17. Project and parts for sale (rparker) 18. Re: Orma's cowling problem / turbo cooling (Orma) 19. Re: Orma's cowling problem / turbo cooling (Mark Langford) 20. Re: Turbo KR operators (Orma) 21. Corvair/KR2S cowling molds (Mark Langford) 22. Re: Orma's cowling problem / turbo cooling (Orma) 23. Re: Cowling joints (Shane Daly) 24. To The Airport (Mark Jones) 25. Re: To The Airport (Dean Cooper) 26. Re: Cowling joints (Allen Wiesner ) ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Message: 1 Date: Sun, 29 Aug 2004 00:03:52 -0400 From: "Dean Cooper" Subject: KR> Carbon Seat To: "KRnet" Message-ID: <056c01c48d7d$32595440$0502a8c0@office> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Netters, After a 4 month hiatus (Summer projects, kids stuff, etc), I finished my carbon seat today. The link is below. It's built entirely out of foam, glass, and carbon fiber and rests on the spars without any center supports. It holds me standing in the middle with minimal flexing. It's amazing how strong this stuff is. It weighs in at just shy of 4 lbs (3 lbs 15ozs). How does that compare to others? I'm not sure exactly how much the stock sling seat and all of it's hardware weighs, but this seat puts my butt about 1.25" off the bottom of the fuselage... :-) http://www.geocities.com/djramccoop1/Seat.html See you at the gathering!! Mark J, how many days is it... :-) Dean Cooper Jacksonville, FL Email me at dean_cooper@bellsouth.net See my KR project at www.geocities.com/djramccoop1/KR2_Home.html ------------------------------ Message: 2 Date: Sat, 28 Aug 2004 22:19:27 -0700 (PDT) From: Ray Fuenzalida Subject: KR> Corvair To: krnet@mylist.net Message-ID: <20040829051927.36934.qmail@web42007.mail.yahoo.com> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Hi guys, I sent an email a couple of days ago but I guess it didn't go through. Question - What do you do with a 145 cid Corvair engine? William Wynne's book refers only to the 164 cid engine. The 145 was from 1960 to 1963. I got them from Larry's Corvair Shop in California. He knew I wanted them for an aviation application and I believe he knew I needed the 164 cid. So, can this engine be used or do I now have 2 big paper weights? I have also emailed William Wynne about this. Thanks Ray __________________________________ Do you Yahoo!? New and Improved Yahoo! Mail - 100MB free storage! http://promotions.yahoo.com/new_mail ------------------------------ Message: 3 Date: Sun, 29 Aug 2004 06:07:07 -0400 (Eastern Standard Time) From: "Dan Heath" Subject: Re: KR> Carbon Seat To: "krnet@mylist.net" Message-ID: <4131AACB.000001.03752@COMPUTER> Content-Type: Text/Plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Dean, We made passenger and pilot seats separate. One of ours weighs only slightly less than your whole seat. Using the "Hat Trick" was a good idea. Ours is made using wooden ribs, foam, and one layer of carbon on each side. Our seat back weighs almost as much as your seat and it is made with 1/4" Last-O-Foam and one layer of carbon on each side. If you plan to put your radio antenna in the back fuselage area, think again about making the back out of carbon. You may also have to put an ELT antenna back there. You need to plan for your push tube that may be going under the seat as well as the center seat belt attachments that may have to exit through the seat. Also, depending on the canopy that you will or do have, will you be able to get the seat in and out of the plane? Our seat back is carbon, so I had to mount the antenna outside and had to make more cuts and repairs than I can remember when it came time to put in the seat belts. That is a really nice looking seat. "There is a time for building and a time for GOING TO THE GATHERING, and the time for building has long since expired." See you in Mt. Vernon - 2004 - KR Gathering http://KRGathering.org See N64KR at http://KR-Builder.org - Then click on the pics Daniel R. Heath - Columbia, SC ------------------------------ Message: 4 Date: Sun, 29 Aug 2004 05:38:13 -0500 From: "JIM VANCE" Subject: KR> Carbon Fiber Seat To: "krnet" Message-ID: <002701c48db4$4a4e6d60$0200a8c0@oemcomputer> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Dean, Your aircraft seat is much more elegant and weight saving than the lead lumps that I have permanently bonded to my floor pan. Please keep us advised of your progress on the backboard. Jim Vance ------------------------------ Message: 5 Date: Sun, 29 Aug 2004 05:43:19 -0500 From: "JIM VANCE" Subject: KR> Cowling joints To: "krnet" Message-ID: <003001c48db5$00447560$0200a8c0@oemcomputer> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" I used piano hinges to join the top and bottom of my cowling. It resulted in an almost perfect fit. The wires of the hinges pull out the front of the cowling to release it. How do I retain the wires so they don't slide out and customize my propeller? I would like something that looks intentional, rather than an after-the-fact bandaid. Jim Vance ------------------------------ Message: 6 Date: Sun, 29 Aug 2004 06:47:40 -0400 (Eastern Standard Time) From: "Dan Heath" Subject: Re: KR> cowling To: "krnet@mylist.net" Message-ID: <4131B44C.000007.03752@COMPUTER> Content-Type: Text/Plain; charset="iso-8859-1" I believe that to use the 'Revmaster' cowling with a VW engine, you have to have a prop hub extension of around 2.5 to 3 inches because of the taper on the nose. We had a very nice one, but at the time did not want to add an extension, so traded it for a 'Hapi', which would not clear the exhaust pipe on one side that we traded from a 4 into one to allow room for the carburetor. Jerry disliked the 'bumps' that we had to add to the front of the 'Hapi', so much, that he decided that it would be OK to use an extension and bought one. Then we had to find another 'Revmaster' cowling, which we now have thanks to Jim Moorehead. I put quotes around the names, because these names have been applied to a certain shape of cowl and may or may not be the product of either of those companies. In fact, I know that Revmaster does not make the 'Revmaster' cowling and cannot even tell you where to get one. I include all the other rambling so you will get the idea that you just can t apply this or that cowling to your installation and expect it to fit. You have to fit your installation to the cowling or change the cowling. If you don't have anything invested in a cowling yet, you may be better off building your own from scratch as is documented on several sites referenced on this NET. "There is a time for building and a time for GOING TO THE GATHERING, and the time for building has long since expired." See you in Mt. Vernon - 2004 - KR Gathering http://KRGathering.org See N64KR at http://KR-Builder.org - Then click on the pics Daniel R. Heath - Columbia, SC ------------------------------ Message: 7 Date: Sun, 29 Aug 2004 07:25:20 -0500 From: "Mark Jones" Subject: KR> The Gathering To: "KR Net" Message-ID: <001a01c48dc3$4195ec20$6401a8c0@wi.rr.com> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Holy cow ONLY 25 days to go. BTW, my plane is sitting in the driveway on a trailer all rigged and strapped ready for the trip to the airport today. Photos to follow tonight. Mark Jones (N886MJ) Wales, WI USA E-mail me at flykr2s@wi.rr.com Visit my KR-2S CorvAIRCRAFT web site at http://mywebpage.netscape.com/n886mj/homepage.html ------------------------------ Message: 8 Date: Sun, 29 Aug 2004 07:36:52 -0500 From: "Mark Jones" Subject: Re: KR> Cowling joints To: "KRnet" Message-ID: <003801c48dc4$dd127fa0$6401a8c0@wi.rr.com> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Jim, I too have cowling pins and I went to the local hobby shop and bought a pack of landing gear wheel retainers and am using those. These are small metal collars which slip over the end of the piano hinge and are locked on with an allen set screw. Works great, looks good too. Mark Jones (N886MJ) Wales, WI USA E-mail me at flykr2s@wi.rr.com Visit my KR-2S CorvAIRCRAFT web site at http://mywebpage.netscape.com/n886mj/homepage.html ----- Original Message ----- From: "JIM VANCE" To: "krnet" Sent: Sunday, August 29, 2004 5:43 AM Subject: KR> Cowling joints > I used piano hinges to join the top and bottom of my cowling. It > resulted in an almost perfect fit. > > The wires of the hinges pull out the front of the cowling to release > it. How do I retain the wires so they don't slide out and customize my propeller? I would like something that looks intentional, rather than an after-the-fact bandaid. > > Jim Vance > _______________________________________ > to UNsubscribe from KRnet, send a message to KRnet-leave@mylist.net > please see other KRnet info at http://www.krnet.org/info.html ------------------------------ Message: 9 Date: Sun, 29 Aug 2004 07:34:12 -0500 From: "francis fenlason" Subject: RE: KR> Blower To: "'KRnet'" Message-ID: <000001c48dc4$7d55fbf0$0fe2b741@primelibrary> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii" Pat: If I remember correctly there are four small screws near the hub of the fan that secure the fan to the bearing that is pressed on. Russ Breckenridge, MN -----Original Message----- From: krnet-bounces+asiruss=702com.net@mylist.net [mailto:krnet-bounces+asiruss=702com.net@mylist.net] On Behalf Of Pat Driscoll Sent: Friday, August 27, 2004 8:47 PM To: KR Mailing list Subject: KR> Blower Thanks guys, I saw that the blower bearing was pressed in but in the "blow up" it looked like the fan was attached to the bearing after the bearing was pressed in. Now I don't feel bad about taking the whole top off. Pat Driscoll patrick36@usfamily.net Saint Paul, MN ------ http://USFamily.Net/info - Unlimited Internet - From $8.99/mo! ------ _______________________________________ to UNsubscribe from KRnet, send a message to KRnet-leave@mylist.net please see other KRnet info at http://www.krnet.org/info.html ------------------------------ Message: 10 Date: Sun, 29 Aug 2004 09:04:13 -0500 From: "Mark Langford" Subject: Re: KR> Carbon Seat To: "KRnet" Message-ID: <18b401c48dd1$125777e0$1202a8c0@basement> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Dean Cooper wrote: > It weighs in at just shy of 4 lbs (3 lbs 15ozs). How > does that compare to others? Mine's 4 pounds, four ounces, but after I cut off the stuff that doesn't need to be there (the useless structure that connects the seat to the fuselage bottom), it should weigh even less than yours. Still, yours is probably stronger than mine, and beautifully done. Like others have done, I'm going to change mine so that the rear edge hooks over the rear spar (the front edge already works that way), and while I'm doing that, I'm going to lower the seat to the fuselage bottom so taller people can sit in the cockpit without canopy interference. Right now it's about 2" from the bottom, and my headset is very close to the canopy. Mine's at http://home.hiwaay.net/~langford/seat.html , and after just reading it, I can tell you that my old sling seat and associated mounting hardware weighed right at 4 pounds. Mark Langford, Huntsville, Alabama N56ML "at" hiwaay.net see KR2S project at http://home.hiwaay.net/~langford ------------------------------ Message: 11 Date: Sun, 29 Aug 2004 09:29:13 -0500 From: "Mark Langford" Subject: Re: KR> Cowling joints To: "KRnet" Message-ID: <18da01c48dd4$8ec93270$1202a8c0@basement> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Jim Vance wrote: > The wires of the hinges pull out the front of the cowling to release > it. How do I retain the wires so they don't slide out and customize my propeller? < I have a similar setup, but I was worried about the same thing, the prop. That's exactly what happened to Lionheart on it's first flight, and it was a $14,000 prop that got trashed. For that reason, I've made my hinge pins insert from the fuselage end, rather than the prop end. I haven't done it yet, but I'm going to weld a little washer to the end of the pin (flat) and put a screw through it to retain the pin. That washer will also serve as the "grip" to pull it out with. Mark Langford, Huntsville, Alabama N56ML "at" hiwaay.net see KR2S project at http://home.hiwaay.net/~langford ------------------------------ Message: 12 Date: Sun, 29 Aug 2004 16:38:41 +0200 From: "Stephen Jacobs" Subject: RE: KR> Carbon Seat To: "'KRnet'" Message-ID: <000001c48dd5$e4d41030$3464a8c0@home> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii" Mark I was wondering why you had opted for a single, centre stick - then I noted the caption above the last picture where you refer to "cutting out the holes for the dual sticks". I had a good look at the last picture - looks like a centre stick? Even considered your propensity for trick photography - still looks like one pole in the middle? Maybe you are counting the flap /spoiler Handle over on the left? Please remember the KR that had the baggage floor collapse and obstruct the elevator push rod (G-man Roberts?) - consider a strong support over the push rod (under the seat) or a cut-out in the seat that will allow it to bottom out before hindering the push rod. Sudden and harsh G loads can occur in CAT. Take care Steve J ------------------------------ Message: 13 Date: Sun, 29 Aug 2004 10:00:51 -0500 From: "Mark Langford" Subject: Re: KR> pin connectors and crimp tool To: "KRnet" Message-ID: <18e701c48dd8$fa028ce0$1202a8c0@basement> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" I'm pretty sure this will get me tarred and feathered, but all the Molex connectors I've ever made I did with the pliers part of regular Klein wire strippers (although pliers would do the same thing). I just close one side up over the wire, squeeze it side to side, and then squeeze the remaining tab over to lock it all in place, then do the dab of solder thing. If I'd known there was a special tool for the job, I'd have it, but I've blissfully been doing it the "hard way" for years, and it works. I DO have the removal tool though... Mark Langford, Huntsville, Alabama N56ML "at" hiwaay.net see KR2S project at http://home.hiwaay.net/~langford ------------------------------ Message: 14 Date: Sun, 29 Aug 2004 10:01:25 -0500 From: "Mark Langford" Subject: Re: KR> Carbon Seat To: "KRnet" Message-ID: <18e801c48dd9$0e5297d0$1202a8c0@basement> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Steve J wrote: > I was wondering why you had opted for a single, centre stick - then I > noted the caption above the last picture where you refer to "cutting > out the holes for the dual sticks". I had a good look at the last > picture - looks like a centre stick? Even considered your propensity > for trick photography - still looks like one pole in the middle? Please see the 5th picture down at http://home.hiwaay.net/~langford/ for trick photography of dual sticks, as well as some other stuff you might find interesting. More on dual sticks available at the lower half of http://home.hiwaay.net/~langford/kcontrol.html ... Mark Langford, Huntsville, Alabama N56ML "at" hiwaay.net see KR2S project at http://home.hiwaay.net/~langford ------------------------------ Message: 15 Date: Sun, 29 Aug 2004 10:05:08 -0500 From: "Mark Langford" Subject: KR> Fw: CorvAircraft> New Flyers: KR2S To: "KRnet" Message-ID: <18f301c48dd9$93764d80$1202a8c0@basement> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Here's a post from William Wynne (aka "The Corvair Authority") from CorvAircraft that KRnetters might find interesting... ------------------------------------------------- I just got off the phone with Bill Clapp from Valdosta, Ga. Bill built a KR2S, with of course a Corvair powerplant, in the past two years. He got the first flight in yesterday evening, and put a solid hour in the air this morning. He is overwhelmingly pleased with the combination. We first met Bill at Corvair College #3 at our old hangar. Many people noted that he was more helpful working on other people's things than focusing on his own engine. He's made several trips to our hangar, and most recently attended Corvair College #6 at our new facility. Our Web site features a picture of him taking at nap on the hangar floor at www.flycorvair.com/cc7.html. During these visits, Bill got his core motor from us, built some of his engine, and helped in the making of his motor mount. He has always been a very friendly guy and good company. His KR2S taildragger is interesting not just because it's the first S model to fly with a Corvair engine, but it also features the new airfoils on the wing and the tail, an Aerocarb and good attention to detail. The stunning thing about the plane is that Bill only spent $7,200 to build it, including the engine. Although I have not seen the finished paint job, I'm sure the plane is very good looking because Bill's day job is the restoration of classic VW automobiles. Ten years ago, Bill's family had a KR2 and logged a lot of hours in it. Bill said that the 2S airframe is notable because its a very stable airplane in comparison to their first one... ---------------------------------------- Congratulations Bill! Mark Langford, Huntsville, Alabama N56ML "at" hiwaay.net see KR2S project at http://home.hiwaay.net/~langford ------------------------------ Message: 16 Date: Sun, 29 Aug 2004 08:19:00 -0700 From: larry severson Subject: Re: KR> Orma's cowling problem / turbo cooling To: KRnet Message-ID: <5.2.1.1.0.20040829081713.02929790@pop-server.socal.rr.com> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"; format=flowed At 06:33 PM 8/28/2004 +0000, you wrote: >Orma, >I just had a "brain fart" on your turbo cooling issues. While an >insulating sheild of some sort will protect the imediate area, there is >still the issue of trapped heat in the rest of the cowling. A better >solution IMHO is a simple "trap door" >that is held closed by the flow of cooling air when the engine is running, >but falls open when the engine is shut down. I saw some on a RV many moons >ago, they were simple pannels that had a section of piano hinge at the >forward end. The owner said before this his engine (fuel Inj lyc) was a >bear to start when the engine was warm/hot. Even with the "recomended >Starting procedures" after putting in the doors it was a whole lot easier >to start when warm/hot. Interestingly enough, Revmaster says that cooling the turbo reduces its efficiency. They suggest putting it below the baffels. Larry Severson Fountain Valley, CA 92708 (714) 968-9852 larry2@socal.rr.com ------------------------------ Message: 17 Date: Sun, 29 Aug 2004 10:59:06 -0500 From: "rparker" Subject: KR> Project and parts for sale To: krnet@mylist.net Message-ID: <20040829155906.15473.qmail@server278.com> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" I put up a ragwing special project for sale on e-bay if anone knows someone that might be interested. The parts alone are worth much more than my asking price. http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=2488410668&ssPageName=ADME:B:LC:MT:1 Rich Parker Peterborough, NH rparker@wwhotspots.com http://theparkers.wwhotspots.com/ ------------------------------ Message: 18 Date: Sun, 29 Aug 2004 12:47:19 -0400 From: "Orma" Subject: Re: KR> Orma's cowling problem / turbo cooling To: "KRnet" Message-ID: <008d01c48de7$da373730$1e29d445@ROBBINS1> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" "cooling the turbo reduces its efficiency." I have read about that before. My main concern is to not let the heat sit and cook the cowling. AS&S sells several types of heat blanket material, some of which is adhesive backed, rated up to 2000 degrees and seem like it would work to keep the cowling cool. No one has suggested any thing else that seems practical and simple. As for my turbo, it is behind the #3 cylinder, but not below. I mounted my last turbo too low and the oil went into the turbo like an oil sump, and blew oil everywhere on startup. This turbo is mounted high enough that the oil drains back into the VW sump. Orma Southfield, MI N110LR celebrating 20 years To the gathering or bust ------------------------------ Message: 19 Date: Sun, 29 Aug 2004 11:59:58 -0500 From: "Mark Langford" Subject: Re: KR> Orma's cowling problem / turbo cooling To: "KRnet" Message-ID: <192401c48de9$9dea9770$1202a8c0@basement> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Orma wrote: > would work to keep the cowling cool. No one has suggested any thing > else that seems practical and simple. I'd buy some 1/8" Fiberfrax and the thinnest stainless you can find (it's terrible at conducting heat) and epoxy the stuff to the cowling in the vicinity of the turbo. You'll probably have to run some screws or rivets through at the four corners in case the epoxy loosens up at high temp, but probably not. The trap door that somebody mentioned is usually put in the top part of the cowling, hinged at the forward edge and hanging down, so when you switch the engine off the door falls open, and when you start it the door is blown shut. Pretty neat idea. If I didn't have plenums I'd be doing that. I may do it anyway, between the plenums. Then I could use it to check and add oil too, with no door to worry about! Might need a magnet to set on top in case of rain when parking outside though... Mark Langford, Huntsville, Alabama N56ML "at" hiwaay.net see KR2S project at http://home.hiwaay.net/~langford ------------------------------ Message: 20 Date: Sun, 29 Aug 2004 13:25:13 -0400 From: "Orma" Subject: Re: KR> Turbo KR operators To: "KRnet" Message-ID: <009401c48ded$256de0a0$1e29d445@ROBBINS1> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" "The turbo could be sized for a car application," Exactly the turbo is from a car application. The amount of boost is actually ok for the present time. I have seen 35 on the MP gauge and feel that I can tweak the tuning of the engine a bit more. If I'm now working your number correctly, all I want is about a total "hg increase of from 25"hg to a max of "40hg which is roughly 7 PSI. Mixture has and is an open issue with the Revflow. With each engine run I'm adjusting the settings, or shaving the needle a little to enriched the mixture at WOT. I think one more shave will get me to rich at WOT. Once I determine the needle dimensions at WOT, I will start to carve a smaller needle so that I can have better mixture control at mid range without having to make such large adjustment to the mixture lever(fuel shutoff) every time I change the throttle setting. I'm also working on the CHT cooling, by reworking the baffles. Even with a lot of gaping holes in the baffles, I was able to make a 7 minute max power run and not go into the red. I still have 4 of 5 baffle tasks to be completed. I still need some more welding to the intake system, but for now rubber connectors and clamps secure the system. I plan to connect the control for the waste gate today or tomorrow. If my waste gate control works as planned, I don't see any stoppers to prevent me from getting airborne by next weekend. That's not to say that don't still have a lot to do. My current list has about 30 items open, and as I close one or two, I find from one to three to replace the one's that complete. Orma Southfield, MI N110LR celebrating 20 years To the gathering or bust ------------------------------ Message: 21 Date: Sun, 29 Aug 2004 12:30:15 -0500 From: "Mark Langford" Subject: KR> Corvair/KR2S cowling molds To: "KRnet" Message-ID: <192a01c48ded$d9356fe0$1202a8c0@basement> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" As some of you know, my cowling molds have done a little traveling since I made them, and I think about five cowlings have been made from them. The resulting cowling is not perfect, but it's a big headstart, since you can't buy one anywhere. I was going bring them to the Gathering to let Dan borrow them, but since he has a Revmaster now, he won't be needing them. If somebody else would like to borrow them and pull a cowling off the molds, you're welcome to it, BUT you have to agree to either ship/take them on to somebody else who needs them or back to me. It may not be as simple as throwing them in a box and UPSing them either. I borrowed Dana's Revmaster cowling a few years back and it took a heroic effort (and about three hours) to make a box that fit the molds perfectly, in order to slide in under UPS's max size limit. I'm not sure if they've relaxed the standards or tightened them since then, but my cowling might be a tad bigger than a Revmaster (which was made for a KR2, rather than a 2S). So keep in mind that you might have to ship by truck, which might cost $100-200, but the headstart on a cowling might be worth it. You can see my cowling at http://home.hiwaay.net/~langford/cowling.html . The molds have the nostrils, but it's easy to delete them at layup if you want to. Again, it will not result in a "perfect" cowling like a Revmaster, but it'll get you in the air. I plan to redo mine later on as time permits, but that may be years away, if ever. But if you take these, you have to agree to take care of them and forward them to the next guy somehow (in a timely manner), or return to me. And this deal only works if you can pick them up from me at the Gathering. No charge, of course... Mark Langford, Huntsville, Alabama N56ML "at" hiwaay.net see KR2S project at http://home.hiwaay.net/~langford ------------------------------ Message: 22 Date: Sun, 29 Aug 2004 13:44:42 -0400 From: "Orma" Subject: Re: KR> Orma's cowling problem / turbo cooling To: "KRnet" Message-ID: <009f01c48def$de6026c0$1e29d445@ROBBINS1> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" "If I didn't have plenums" I saw the pictures on your site of the Plenums. It is a very good idea. I noted that they are similar at least in concept to the original equipment Plenums that came on the type 2 that I robbed the 71 mm crank from. That might make a nice winter project. As for the trap door, I can't stand the thought of cutting my cowl yet another time. As for the fiberfrax, I still have some laying around from 20 years ago. Thanks for the ideas. Orma Southfield, MI N110LR celebrating 20 years To the gathering or bust ------------------------------ Message: 23 Date: Sun, 29 Aug 2004 11:40:53 -0600 From: Shane Daly Subject: Re: KR> Cowling joints To: KRnet Message-ID: <007f01c48def$5785e770$7b00a8c0@homecomputer> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=iso-8859-1 Mark L and all, The easiest and cleanest setup I have seen and used is to braze a large "set Screw" onto the end of the hinge pin and then form threads in the front lip of your cowl to retain the pin. I picked up a couple of 1/4-20 set screws at the local hardware store. Drilled a hole in the bottom end of the set screw too fit the hinge pin then brazed them to the forward end of the hinge pins. With the cowls off, I slid the hinge pins into one half of the cowl and applied flox around the set screw to form female threads on the cowl (apply release to the set screws first) I then glassed over the flox to strengthen the bond to the cowl. Once the flox is cured just use your Allen key to remove the set screws with pins attached. I have seen this done on quite a few aircraft. One is a Glasair III 540 Turbo engine and over 2000 hours. The pins have never moved in the cowl. All you see is a small hole in the forward lip of the cowl and the set screw just flush with the finished surface. A lot easier than crawling under the panel to remove the cowl pins. "The future belongs to those who believe in the beauty of their eams." -Eleanor Roosevelt Shane Daly Calgary, Canada ----- Original Message ----- From: "Mark Langford" To: "KRnet" Sent: Sunday, August 29, 2004 8:29 AM Subject: Re: KR> Cowling joints > I have a similar setup, but I was worried about the same thing, the > prop. That's exactly what happened to Lionheart on it's first flight, > and it was a > $14,000 prop that got trashed. For that reason, I've made my hinge > pins insert from the fuselage end, rather than the prop end. I > haven't done it yet, but I'm going to weld a little washer to the end > of the pin (flat) and > put a screw through it to retain the pin. That washer will also serve > as the "grip" to pull it out with. > > Mark Langford, Huntsville, Alabama ------------------------------ Message: 24 Date: Sun, 29 Aug 2004 14:36:21 -0500 From: "Mark Jones" Subject: KR> To The Airport To: "KR Net" , "Corvaircraft" Message-ID: <007a01c48dff$773a41a0$6401a8c0@wi.rr.com> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Here is a link of some photos of moving my KR to the airport. http://mywebpage.netscape.com/n886mj/toairport.html Mark Jones (N886MJ) Wales, WI USA E-mail me at flykr2s@wi.rr.com Visit my KR-2S CorvAIRCRAFT web site at http://mywebpage.netscape.com/n886mj/homepage.html ------------------------------ Message: 25 Date: Sun, 29 Aug 2004 15:50:57 -0400 From: "Dean Cooper" Subject: Re: KR> To The Airport To: "KRnet" Message-ID: <001501c48e01$80a03130$0502a8c0@office> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Mark wrote: > Here is a link of some photos of moving my KR to the airport. Congrat's Mark on the first step to getting it airbourne!! (besides building it of course :-) The KR looks a lot bigger sitting up on a trailer behind the Grand Cherokee! Are you sure it didn't fly to the airport like a kite? Maybe that's what all the people were pointing at... :-) :-) Nice work! Dean Cooper Jacksonville, FL Email me at dean_cooper@bellsouth.net See my KR project at www.geocities.com/djramccoop1/KR2_Home.html ------------------------------ Message: 26 Date: Sun, 29 Aug 2004 15:53:18 -0400 From: "Allen Wiesner " Subject: Re: KR> Cowling joints To: "KRnet" Message-ID: <004b01c48e01$d58940b0$0000a398@CPQ69645694259> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" >The easiest and cleanest setup I have seen and used is to braze a large "set >Screw" onto the end of the hinge pin and then form threads in the front >lip of your cowl to retain the pin. I picked up a couple of 1/4-20 set >screws at >the local hardware store. Drilled a hole in the bottom end of the set >screw too fit the hinge pin then brazed them to the forward end of the >hinge pins. >With the cowls off, I slid the hinge pins into one half of the cowl and >applied flox around the set screw to form female threads on the cowl >(apply release to the set screws first) I then glassed over the flox to >strengthen the bond to the cowl. Once the flox is cured just use your >Allen key to remove the set screws with pins attached. A very good idea! A possible small improvement would be to use a ?floating? nut plate on a small right angle tab and glass the tab to the cowling. Allen G. Wiesner KR-2SS/TD S/N 1118 65 Franklin Street Ansonia, CT 06401-1240 (203) 732-0508 flashyal@usadatanet.net ------------------------------ _______________________________________________ See KRnet list details at http://www.krnet.org/instructions.html End of KRnet Digest, Vol 346, Issue 95 ************************************** ================================== ABC Amber Outlook Converter v4.20 Trial version ==================================