From: krnet-bounces+johnbou=speakeasy.net@mylist.net on behalf of krnet-request@mylist.net Sent: Friday, January 30, 2004 12:00 PM To: krnet@mylist.net Subject: KRnet Digest, Vol 296, Issue 2 Send KRnet mailing list submissions to krnet@mylist.net To subscribe or unsubscribe via the World Wide Web, visit http://mylist.net/listinfo/krnet or, via email, send a message with subject or body 'help' to krnet-request@mylist.net You can reach the person managing the list at krnet-owner@mylist.net When replying, please edit your Subject line so it is more specific than "Re: Contents of KRnet digest..." Today's Topics: 1. Re: Fun Friday-lost my mind:-) (larry severson) 2. Re: Fun Friday-lost my mind:-) (Peter Johnson) 3. Re: Fun Friday-lost my mind:-) (Ray Fuenzalida) ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Date: Fri, 30 Jan 2004 08:18:39 -0800 From: larry severson To: KRnet Subject: Re: KR>Fun Friday-lost my mind:-) Message-ID: <5.2.1.1.0.20040130080921.00bb08e8@pop-server.socal.rr.com> In-Reply-To: Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"; format=flowed MIME-Version: 1.0 Precedence: list Message: 1 > If something happens to this inflight..........run it even if it > trashes the engine, I can buy a new totally rebuilt short block, built > for aero use, for $3500 or just find another one and rebuild it using all > the other accessories. I don't forsee that happening but my gains appear > to far outweight anything negative. I had my 1973 RX2 blow its apex seals (the only thing that can fail on the 13B), and continued to drive it for 3,000 miles before taking it to the shop because of "slightly" reduced performance. Mazda replaced the seals at no charge (normally $800 back then). Performance was back where it had been. Sounds like a get you home engine to me! My only question was a/c setup weight when I started looking at various a/c and engines. I could not find what I considered good information, even when I communicated with Tracy Crook. I have heard the horror stories of engine failure, but they have to be either carburation or ignition. This engine does not fail like others do. At worst it loses 20% of its power. Larry Severson Fountain Valley, CA 92708 (714) 968-9852 larry2@socal.rr.com ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 30 Jan 2004 12:18:36 -0800 From: "Peter Johnson" To: "KRnet" Subject: Re: KR>Fun Friday-lost my mind:-) Message-ID: <002a01c3e76e$40d007e0$9e421a45@peter> References: Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Precedence: list Message: 2 Hi Dana. Good move deciding on using a wankel. Your description of them being 'bullet proof' is absolute! And 180 hp topsnaturally asperated in somethng the size of a large breadbox IS impressive! I got into the rotary about 6 years ago, bought and rebuilt one, and am amazed that there are not more in vehicles and airplanes! I think auto dealers don't like them because of the minimum service required after sales. Enjoy the rebuild, it's not like anything you've rebuilt before. But then you know that already, like you said, no valves, no cams, no springs, no pins, no bunch of bearings, no heads, no jugs... Heck, it's almost NO fun if you're a gearhead! Will you be using the airconditioning condensers for cooling? Keep us abreast. mailto:pjohnson@voyageur.ca ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 30 Jan 2004 11:44:45 -0800 (PST) From: Ray Fuenzalida To: KRnet Subject: Re: KR>Fun Friday-lost my mind:-) Message-ID: <20040130194445.48342.qmail@web42005.mail.yahoo.com> In-Reply-To: <000f01c3e730$ae898380$0a0110ac@o7p4e3> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii MIME-Version: 1.0 Precedence: list Message: 3 joe wrote:Pardon my question, but what additional load carrying capabity and what additional cruise speed and climb rate can u expect from this " and I must say impressive" 180 HP Engine. ----- Original Message ----- From: "Dana Overall" To: Sent: Friday, January 30, 2004 4:16 AM Subject: KR>Fun Friday-lost my mind:-) > OK, you didn't ask for it...........well some did offline with my > cheapest/easiest statement yesterday. > > Here is the the state of the project > http://rvflying.tripod.com/aero1.jpg > > Here is what I got via truck line yesterday > http://rvflying.tripod.com/aero2.jpg > > It is a rotary 13B which will produce 180HP+...........I bought it for $650 > delivered. To rebuild the engine I'll have to buy an aero rebuild kit, not > auto rebuild, for right at $900. Gear reduction will run $2440 which > will allow me to run a metal prop for IFR. Computer engine moniter for > aero use, > $875, dual aero designed fuel pumps $95 each and about $500 of extra parts. > As you can see, cheapest/easiest is coming into play:-) > > For engine/redrive see the following: > > http://www.rotaryaviation.com > http://rotaryresources.com > > Next the issue of engine mount/gear mount to fit my 0-360 > cowling..........hum, I sure don't want to have to tackle this.........let's > try: > > http://www.conversionconcepts.com/rv-6-7.htm > > Since I already have a new Dynafocal 1 engine mount and match drilled > gear legs, I posted a message yesterday, .......I sold them last night > so as to offset the purchase of a new mount. I'll order two new > undrilled gear legs > for $170 each and have them match drilled to the gear attach points on > the new engine mount. No toe in adjustment as you just put a bolt in > and the issue is moot. > > Back to the issue of water-cooled and reduction drive. The more I > looked at > the rotary the more bullet proof it appeared. I know that term is used way > too much but here is my take. The rotary will run at operating RPMs without > water for somewhere around 1/2 hour before the apex seals around the rotary > start to come apart. After they come apart, you certainly lose compression > and a resulting loss of RPMs. However, it still continues to run as no > metal is rubbing on metal. You won't be able to restart it but it will > continue to produce minimized horsepower. These things don't > mechanically break or blow up. With so few moving parts and no jugs to > pull or valves to > lap, maintenance is at a minimum. The redrive unit from Tracy is a > proven unit. It is a final product and will turn a wood or metal prop. > Sen. makes > a prop for this drive especially for the RV. The engines will > efficiently and reliably produce 180HP+. > > Someone slap me..............I must be asleep at the wheel making such > a > decison:-) > > OH, KR related.............you can get a rotary to fit:-) > > > > Dana Overall > 1999 & 2000 National KR Gathering host > Richmond, KY > RV-7 slider, Imron black, "Black Magic" > Finish kit > Buying Instruments. Hangar flying my Dynon. http://rvflying.tripod.com > do not archive > > _________________________________________________________________ > Check out the new MSN 9 Dial-up - fast & reliable Internet access with prime > features! http://join.msn.com/?pgmarket=en-us&page=dialup/home&ST=1 > > > _______________________________________ > to UNsubscribe from KRnet, send a message to KRnet-leave@mylist.net > please see other KRnet info at http://www.krnet.org/info.html _______________________________________ to UNsubscribe from KRnet, send a message to KRnet-leave@mylist.net please see other KRnet info at http://www.krnet.org/info.html Just reading about the new wave of rotary engines. I just bought a Corvair engine after debating over the VW engine. I'm not sure if I can handle anything new. Just in case put up as much info as possible so that we can all review it. Stuff like the reduction unit. Can it be homemade or just purchased? Do plans exist? Thanks Ray --------------------------------- Do you Yahoo!? Yahoo! SiteBuilder - Free web site building tool. Try it!------------------------------ _______________________________________________ See KRnet list details at http://www.krnet.org/instructions.html End of KRnet Digest, Vol 296, Issue 2 *************************************