From: krnet-bounces@mylist.net To: John Bouyea Subject: KRnet Digest, Vol 347, Issue 103 Date: 3/14/2005 10:11:46 AM Send KRnet mailing list submissions to krnet@mylist.net To subscribe or unsubscribe via the World Wide Web, visit http://mylist.net/listinfo/krnet or, via email, send a message with subject or body 'help' to krnet-request@mylist.net You can reach the person managing the list at krnet-owner@mylist.net When replying, please edit your Subject line so it is more specific than "Re: Contents of KRnet digest..." Today's Topics: 1. R?f. : Re: KR> GPS - PDA (Serge VIDAL) 2. Re: Joe Horton update (Dan Heath) 3. Re: WENT FROM LURKER TO BUILDER YESTERDAY! (Dan Heath) 4. Re: R?f. : Re: KR> GPS - PDA (Mark Jones) 5. painting metal parts (Oscar Zuniga) 6. KR2 for sale (Guy Campolattara) 7. Re: painting metal parts (Flymaca711689@aol.com) 8. Re: painting metal parts (Steve Eberhart) 9. hole patch (larry flesner) 10. Re: painting metal parts (Orma) 11. Re: GPS (larry severson) 12. RE: painting metal parts (Stephen Jacobs) 13. painting metal parts (Oscar Zuniga) 14. Back on the subject of wood (William Jeffries) 15. Re: painting metal parts (Robert L. Stone) 16. RE: Back on the subject of wood (Stephen Jacobs) 17. non-spray painting (Oscar Zuniga) 18. Re: Back on the subject of wood (Steve Eberhart) 19. Not KR (patrick36@usfamily.net) 20. RE: painting metal parts (Doug Rupert) 21. Re: Back on the subject of wood (William Jeffries) 22. R?f. : RE: KR> painting metal parts (Serge VIDAL) 23. Re: Réf. : RE: KR> painting metal parts (William Jeffries) 24. Re: WENT FROM LURKER TO BUILDER YESTERDAY! (Dennis Mingear) ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Message: 1 Date: Mon, 14 Mar 2005 09:35:23 +0100 From: Serge VIDAL Subject: R?f. : Re: KR> GPS - PDA To: KRnet Message-ID: Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" No kidding? I have a 315. Where can I get an updated database? (By the way, I haven't managed to renitialize the 315 since I shifted to a new continent. It gets the GPS signal fine, but does not complete the fix. Apart from that, the 315 is excellent value for money). Serge Vidal KR2 "Kilimanjaro Cloud" Paris, France "Mark Jones" Envoyé par : krnet-bounces@mylist.net 2005-03-14 00:46 Veuillez répondre à KRnet Remis le : 2005-03-14 00:44 Pour : "KRnet" cc : (ccc : Serge VIDAL/DNSA/SAGEM) Objet : Re: KR> GPS - PDA Magellan 315 is what I use. You can update the database every 3 months for free on the internet. I have used mine while flying commercial and it works perfectly. They are inexpensive and very accurate and easy to use. Mark Jones (N886MJ) Wales, WI USA E-mail me at flykr2s@wi.rr.com Visit my KR-2S CorvAIRCRAFT web site at http://mywebpage.netscape.com/n886mj/homepage.html _______________________________________ Search the KRnet Archives at http://www.maddyhome.com/krsrch/index.jsp to UNsubscribe from KRnet, send a message to KRnet-leave@mylist.net please see other KRnet info at http://www.krnet.org/info.html ------------------------------ Message: 2 Date: Mon, 14 Mar 2005 05:35:21 -0500 (Eastern Standard Time) From: "Dan Heath" Subject: Re: KR> Joe Horton update To: "krnet@mylist.net" Message-ID: <423568E9.000007.03552@DANHOMECOMPUTER> Content-Type: Text/Plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Joe, Really nice job, especially on those seats. You are going to have a very nice plane. See N64KR at http://KR-Builder.org - Then click on the pics There is a time for building and a time for FLYING and the time for building has expired. Daniel R. Heath - Columbia, SC See you in Mt. Vernon - 2005 - KR Gathering ------------------------------ Message: 3 Date: Mon, 14 Mar 2005 06:01:06 -0500 (Eastern Standard Time) From: "Dan Heath" Subject: Re: KR> WENT FROM LURKER TO BUILDER YESTERDAY! To: "krnet@mylist.net" Message-ID: <42356EF2.000009.03552@DANHOMECOMPUTER> Content-Type: Text/Plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Denny, Welcome in out of the cold from Lurkerland. See my comments below. See N64KR at http://KR-Builder.org - Then click on the pics There is a time for building and a time for FLYING and the time for building has expired. Daniel R. Heath - Columbia, SC See you in Mt. Vernon - 2005 - KR Gathering -------Original Message------- What type of resin was used to make these cowls? I have never seen any that were not Vinyl Ester, you can tell by the aroma when you sand it. You can repair it using any resin as long as you sand the surface to rough. I would just put one layer of KR cloth on the inside and one on the outside overlapping the crack by about 2". I use AeroPoxy. Certainly VinylEster on VinylEster is best, but I don't like to use it and don't like to pay the Hazmat shipping charges and don't like the thought of using a "hazmat". Should I be concerned about this and remove the stained plywood and scarf in some new plywood? It will not be visible so from a cosmetic point of view it is not a problem. I would have to see it to be able to give you a better answer, but if you are concerned about it, you can fix it by laying another layer of plywood over the area and glue it down with T-88, which could be sloppy, or could just put a layer of lightweight KR cloth over it. Whatever you do, be sure that there is no varnish on the area as your glues or resins will not stick to it. Some people glass in the whole fuselage with deck cloth anyway, which I don't recommend. If there is varnish on any area that you need to use glue or resin, sand it off very clean and then vacuum up the residue and clean that with something like Acetone. There is a small hole in the side of the boat just behind the rear spar mounting location, several inches up from the bottom about the size of my fist. What should I do to repair this? No problem. Cut the hole clean. Cut out a piece of the 3/32" plywood used for the skin, larger than the resulting hole. Glue it to the inside of the fuselage. Remember, no varnish and use T-88. A good clamp can be made from 1/4" strips of 2X4 cut just slightly longer than the width of the fuselage at the point of the damage. Stick on the repair patch and brace it with the sticks. Then after that cures, cut out another piece of plywood to fit the resulting hole and glue it in that space. You can hold it in place with aluminum pop rivets or Clicoes if you have them. Fill with Super Fil or something like that. What is this adhesive and should I continue with it for the rest of the build? I would use T-88 and really can't know what the old stuff is. I have Dr. Dean wing attach fittings and I would like to use them on the KR-2 wings with the "new" 15% airfoill. Kind of a KR-2S wing on a KR-2. Any problems with doing this? No problem using the new wing on a KR2, at least that is what I hear on the net. I believe that is what Troy did. Welcome and Happy Building. See you at the Gathering. ------------------------------ Message: 4 Date: Mon, 14 Mar 2005 05:41:52 -0600 From: "Mark Jones" Subject: Re: R?f. : Re: KR> GPS - PDA To: "KRnet" Message-ID: <002301c5288a$d5e85c20$6401a8c0@wi.rr.com> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" This is a USA database upgrade. I am not sure about getting an upgrade for anywhere else. Here is the link for the Magellan 315: http://home.stny.rr.com/bkw/315/ Mark Jones (N886MJ) Wales, WI USA E-mail me at flykr2s@wi.rr.com Visit my KR-2S CorvAIRCRAFT web site at http://mywebpage.netscape.com/n886mj/homepage.html ----- Original Message ----- From: "Serge VIDAL" To: "KRnet" Sent: Monday, March 14, 2005 2:35 AM Subject: Réf. : Re: KR> GPS - PDA No kidding? I have a 315. Where can I get an updated database? (By the way, I haven't managed to renitialize the 315 since I shifted to a new continent. It gets the GPS signal fine, but does not complete the fix. Apart from that, the 315 is excellent value for money). Serge Vidal KR2 "Kilimanjaro Cloud" Paris, France "Mark Jones" Envoyé par : krnet-bounces@mylist.net 2005-03-14 00:46 Veuillez répondre à KRnet Remis le : 2005-03-14 00:44 Pour : "KRnet" cc : (ccc : Serge VIDAL/DNSA/SAGEM) Objet : Re: KR> GPS - PDA Magellan 315 is what I use. You can update the database every 3 months for free on the internet. I have used mine while flying commercial and it works perfectly. They are inexpensive and very accurate and easy to use. Mark Jones (N886MJ) Wales, WI USA E-mail me at flykr2s@wi.rr.com Visit my KR-2S CorvAIRCRAFT web site at http://mywebpage.netscape.com/n886mj/homepage.html _______________________________________ Search the KRnet Archives at http://www.maddyhome.com/krsrch/index.jsp to UNsubscribe from KRnet, send a message to KRnet-leave@mylist.net please see other KRnet info at http://www.krnet.org/info.html _______________________________________ Search the KRnet Archives at http://www.maddyhome.com/krsrch/index.jsp to UNsubscribe from KRnet, send a message to KRnet-leave@mylist.net please see other KRnet info at http://www.krnet.org/info.html ------------------------------ Message: 5 Date: Mon, 14 Mar 2005 07:35:25 -0600 From: "Oscar Zuniga" Subject: KR> painting metal parts To: pietenpol-list@matronics.com, krnet@mylist.net Message-ID: Content-Type: text/plain; format=flowed Group; I've had problems painting metal parts, both steel and aluminum. Some parts will take the paint perfectly, but other times it's as if there is something on the metal that repels the paint and I get little voids and imperfections. Cleaning with hot soapy water, MEK, alcohol, or degreaser don't seem to make any difference... there are little areas that just won't take the paint. Is this maybe some silicone from a cleaning rag, or something in the pores of the metal? Any ideas? Oscar Zuniga San Antonio, TX mailto: taildrags@hotmail.com website at http://www.flysquirrel.net ------------------------------ Message: 6 Date: Mon, 14 Mar 2005 07:39:47 -0600 From: "Guy Campolattara" Subject: KR> KR2 for sale To: Message-ID: Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Dear netters, I have a KR2 for sale with complete plans and an engine (not modified yet) for sale. $1000.oo takes all. Aircraft is in boat stage. Wing spars are complete. I'm in northwest Indiana. E-mail me at hdvalpo@msn.com. Cell 219 405 1164. ------------------------------ Message: 7 Date: Mon, 14 Mar 2005 08:56:56 EST From: Flymaca711689@aol.com Subject: Re: KR> painting metal parts To: krnet@mylist.net Message-ID: <102.5cbf9dcf.2f66f228@aol.com> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII" hi all try scotch bright or just lightly sand ,if you have never used synthetic steel wool you will love it . many uses. mac n1055a ------------------------------ Message: 8 Date: Mon, 14 Mar 2005 08:09:51 -0600 From: Steve Eberhart Subject: Re: KR> painting metal parts To: KRnet Message-ID: <42359B2F.4030500@newtech.com> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1; format=flowed Hi Oscar, If there is any chance that there may be ANY silicone within a quarter mile of anything you might want to pain then it is too close and you are screwed. First rule, silicone and paint don't mix. Treat them like the two components in a binary bomb. Go down to your local auto paint supply store and get some solvent specifically designed to get rid of silicone and try that. Oh, did I mention, don't even purchase anything with silicone in it because it is like Pro Seal. Ask Dana Overall, or any RV builder, they will explain it to you :-) If it is aluminum, try the standard RV metal prep practice: 1. Wash with Dawn dish washing detergent using a scotch brite pad to scuff up the surface. 2. Thoroughly rinse with clear water. 3. Acid etch 4. Treat with alodine. 5. Prime with Napa self etching primer. 6. Paint with your paint of choice. Steve Eberhart Oscar Zuniga wrote: >Group; > >I've had problems painting metal parts, both steel and aluminum. Some >parts >will take the paint perfectly, but other times it's as if there is something >on the metal that repels the paint and I get little voids and imperfections. > Cleaning with hot soapy water, MEK, alcohol, or degreaser don't seem to >make any difference... there are little areas that just won't take the >paint. > >Is this maybe some silicone from a cleaning rag, or something in the >pores >of the metal? Any ideas? > >Oscar Zuniga >San Antonio, TX >mailto: taildrags@hotmail.com >website at http://www.flysquirrel.net > > ------------------------------ Message: 9 Date: Mon, 14 Mar 2005 08:26:54 -0600 From: larry flesner Subject: KR> hole patch To: KRnet Message-ID: <3.0.6.32.20050314082654.0083e4b0@pop.midwest.net> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii" Stick on the repair patch and brace it with the >sticks. Then after that cures, cut out another piece of plywood to fit >the resulting hole and glue it in that space. You can hold it in place >with aluminum pop rivets or Clicoes if you have them. Fill with Super >Fil or something like that. (Dan Heath) ++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++ Trace the hole on the second piece of ply before you cover the hole with the patch and you should have an easy to cut, perfect fit on the filler piece. Just trying to keep you from getting the same blister on your forehead as I got from the constant slapping of my forehead with my hand !! :-) Larry Flesner ------------------------------ Message: 10 Date: Mon, 14 Mar 2005 10:40:02 -0500 From: "Orma" Subject: Re: KR> painting metal parts To: "KRnet" Message-ID: <00a401c528ac$17884660$0202a8c0@ROBBINS1> Content-Type: text/plain; format=flowed; charset="iso-8859-1"; reply-type=original I've had problems painting metal parts, both steel and aluminum. Hello Oscar Contact your local paint store and inquire into etching primers, or acid baths that will etch the metal. afterwards the paint will stick. Orma Southfield, MI N110LR Tweety, old enough to drink this year Flying and more flying, to the gathering or bust http://www.kr-2.aviation-mechanics.com/ ------------------------------ Message: 11 Date: Mon, 14 Mar 2005 07:47:54 -0800 From: larry severson Subject: Re: KR> GPS To: KRnet Message-ID: <5.2.1.1.0.20050314074702.00c18e98@pop-server.socal.rr.com> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"; format=flowed At 07:51 PM 3/13/2005 -0700, you wrote: >On Mon, 14 Mar 2005 01:43:11 GMT "thepittses@juno.com" > writes: > > > > This site http://airplanegear.com/lowrance.htm list the lowrance If you look at their "special price" the 1000 is $499 & the 2000c is $899. Larry Severson Fountain Valley, CA 92708 (714) 968-9852 larry2@socal.rr.com ------------------------------ Message: 12 Date: Mon, 14 Mar 2005 18:08:43 +0200 From: "Stephen Jacobs" Subject: RE: KR> painting metal parts To: "'KRnet'" Message-ID: <000001c528b0$1bf71560$3f64a8c0@stephen> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii" Hey Oz I think Steve E is right, you have some Si contamination - even a whiff of one of the aerosol lubricants / polishes / car cleaners etc. is enough to cause great frustration. The paint withdraws from some places like lots of miniature craters or fisheyes - right? Sanding, scuffing etc makes it worse - spreads the silicon and can even embed it in the material. There are two solution that I am aware of: = A sort of "thinners" or cleaner that will remove it in a wipe-down of the area. I had limited success with areas that I first tried to clean by sanding - two or three wipe-downs using a clean paper towel each time. = An additive called fish eye suppressor - two teaspoons in the gun after the paint has been thinned will do the trick. I had more success with this. God luck Steve J Is this the Squirrel getting some paint? ------------------------------ Message: 13 Date: Mon, 14 Mar 2005 10:16:04 -0600 From: "Oscar Zuniga" Subject: KR> painting metal parts To: krnet@mylist.net Message-ID: Content-Type: text/plain; format=flowed Thanks to all who replied on the paint adhesion problem... I've gotten a lead on a product called "Rapid Prep" ( http://www.rapidtac.com/prep.html ) that is supposed to do the trick on silicone and other foreign materials. FWIW, this is not on the Flying Squirrel (although I had the same situation on some parts that I painted on it)... at the moment I'm working on repairs to the Pietenpol. Hope to have it back in the air in a few weeks. And no, the Piet is not fast enough to serve as the photo ship for the Gathering. Top speed, downhill, with the wind, is probably slower than stall on most KRs! Oscar Zuniga San Antonio, TX mailto: taildrags@hotmail.com website at http://www.flysquirrel.net ------------------------------ Message: 14 Date: Mon, 14 Mar 2005 08:25:19 -0800 (PST) From: William Jeffries Subject: KR> Back on the subject of wood To: krnet Message-ID: <20050314162519.72522.qmail@web90105.mail.scd.yahoo.com> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Hello Netters, I recalled reading a government report from the twenties pertaining to use of alternative wood in aircraft production. I've located the link and thought I'd post it. Realizing that in the twenties that many aircraft were constucted of wood I thought that this would have some bearing on the KR constuction. http://naca.larc.gov/reports/1920/naca-report-67/ I hope this helps, I can also recall reading a report pertaining to the tensile strength and weights of different woods but have yet to locate that. Regards, Bill Jeffries <>< __________________________________ Do you Yahoo!? Yahoo! Small Business - Try our new resources site! http://smallbusiness.yahoo.com/resources/ ------------------------------ Message: 15 Date: Mon, 14 Mar 2005 10:35:57 -0600 From: "Robert L. Stone" Subject: Re: KR> painting metal parts To: "KRnet" Message-ID: <000e01c528b3$e6589830$a624c944@yourat5qgaac3z> Content-Type: text/plain; format=flowed; charset="iso-8859-1"; reply-type=original Oscar, I have been looking for paint that can be brushed on to use on aircraft plastics and all I have come up with so far is spray on paints which means the part would have to be removed from the aircraft prior to painting. If you come up with the answer to my problem during your research, please contact me off net. Bob Stone, Harker Heights, Tx rstone4@hot.rr.com ----- Original Message ----- From: "Oscar Zuniga" To: Sent: Monday, March 14, 2005 10:16 AM Subject: KR> painting metal parts > Thanks to all who replied on the paint adhesion problem... I've gotten > a lead on a product called "Rapid Prep" ( > http://www.rapidtac.com/prep.html ) that is supposed to do the trick > on silicone and other foreign materials. > > FWIW, this is not on the Flying Squirrel (although I had the same > situation > on some parts that I painted on it)... at the moment I'm working on > repairs > to the Pietenpol. Hope to have it back in the air in a few weeks. And > no, > the Piet is not fast enough to serve as the photo ship for the Gathering. > Top speed, downhill, with the wind, is probably slower than stall on most > KRs! > > Oscar Zuniga > San Antonio, TX > mailto: taildrags@hotmail.com > website at http://www.flysquirrel.net > > > > _______________________________________ > Search the KRnet Archives at http://www.maddyhome.com/krsrch/index.jsp > to UNsubscribe from KRnet, send a message to KRnet-leave@mylist.net > please see other KRnet info at http://www.krnet.org/info.html > ------------------------------ Message: 16 Date: Mon, 14 Mar 2005 18:34:42 +0200 From: "Stephen Jacobs" Subject: RE: KR> Back on the subject of wood To: "'KRnet'" Message-ID: <000101c528b3$bcbfca70$3f64a8c0@stephen> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii" I recalled reading a government report from the twenties pertaining to use if alternative wood in aircraft production. I've located the link and thought I'd post it +++++++++++++++++++++++ Thank you Bill - I am fascinated by this topic and cannot wait to read the article. The link did not work just now, I will try again later. Steve J ------------------------------ Message: 17 Date: Mon, 14 Mar 2005 10:48:21 -0600 From: "Oscar Zuniga" Subject: KR> non-spray painting To: krnet@mylist.net Message-ID: Content-Type: text/plain; format=flowed Bob wrote- >I have been looking for paint that can be brushed on to use on aircraft >plastics and all I have come up with so far is spray on paints which >means the part would have to be removed from the aircraft I'm replying to this on the net because I think it's of general interest. There have been several excellent posts on this subject and if you search on "rolling and tipping", you will learn something about it. There is apparently a perfectly good technique available for hand application of paint, proven in the boating world. I don't think you need to remove the parts for painting, but I do believe it helps to have the surfaces laying flat because the technique relies on the liquid paint "flowing" to smooth it out and that's not usually possible on a vertical surface without risk of runs. However... I have not tried "rolling and tipping" myself so I don't know for sure. Oscar Zuniga San Antonio, TX mailto: taildrags@hotmail.com website at http://www.flysquirrel.net ------------------------------ Message: 18 Date: Mon, 14 Mar 2005 10:49:20 -0600 From: Steve Eberhart Subject: Re: KR> Back on the subject of wood To: KRnet Message-ID: <4235C090.8040902@newtech.com> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1; format=flowed Stephen Jacobs wrote: >Thank you Bill - I am fascinated by this topic and cannot wait to read >the article. > >The link did not work just now, I will try again later. > >Steve J > > > Give this one a try: http://naca.larc.nasa.gov/reports/1920/naca-report-67/ Steve Eberhart ------------------------------ Message: 19 Date: Mon, 14 Mar 2005 10:52:09 -0600 From: Subject: KR> Not KR To: "KR Net" Message-ID: <000b01c528b6$2b4aabc0$e78dd440@usf285120> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Sorry to put this up when it's not Friday but I'm trying to see if anyone might be going from near LA to the Reno NV area on the 18th or 19th and would have an extra seat open. My granddaughter(23 yrs. old). Needs a ride and also coming back on the 25th or 26th. Thanks, Pat Driscoll Saint Paul, MN patrick36@usfamily.net --- http://USFamily.Net/dialup.html - $8.25/mo! -- http://www.usfamily.net/dsl.html - $19.99/mo! --- ------------------------------ Message: 20 Date: Mon, 14 Mar 2005 12:06:51 -0500 From: "Doug Rupert" Subject: RE: KR> painting metal parts To: "'KRnet'" Message-ID: <001a01c528b8$38dedbb0$b104e440@office> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="windows-1250" Go down to the local hardware store and get yourself a bottle of industrial strength toilet bowl cleaner (stronger than CLR) and pour or paint it on the aluminum part. Wait a couple of minutes and flush with water. BTW don't get that crap on your hands, don't ask how I know. Basically a watered down version of muratic acid (the stuff they use to etch concrete). Works like a charm and unlike it's full strength partner will not harm the metal. In the old days we used to use Coke to remove rust from chrome car parts. Doug Rupert -- Internal Virus Database is out-of-date. Checked by AVG Anti-Virus. Version: 7.0.308 / Virus Database: 266.6.2 - Release Date: 3/4/2005 ------------------------------ Message: 21 Date: Mon, 14 Mar 2005 09:12:46 -0800 (PST) From: William Jeffries Subject: Re: KR> Back on the subject of wood To: KRnet Message-ID: <20050314171246.11386.qmail@web90109.mail.scd.yahoo.com> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Yep that's better, thanks for fixin' that for me. Bill --- Steve Eberhart wrote: > Stephen Jacobs wrote: > > >Thank you Bill - I am fascinated by this topic and > cannot wait to read > >the article. > > > >The link did not work just now, I will try again > later. > > > >Steve J > > > > > > > Give this one a try: > > http://naca.larc.nasa.gov/reports/1920/naca-report-67/ > > Steve Eberhart > > _______________________________________ > Search the KRnet Archives at http://www.maddyhome.com/krsrch/index.jsp > to UNsubscribe from KRnet, send a message to > KRnet-leave@mylist.net > please see other KRnet info at > http://www.krnet.org/info.html > __________________________________ Do you Yahoo!? Yahoo! Small Business - Try our new resources site! http://smallbusiness.yahoo.com/resources/ ------------------------------ Message: 22 Date: Mon, 14 Mar 2005 18:13:28 +0100 From: Serge VIDAL Subject: R?f. : RE: KR> painting metal parts To: KRnet Message-ID: Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" If I remenber well, Coke is full of phosphoric acid. Once upon a time, I was cleaning some KR2 parts while watching TV and drinking booze. I had put the parts in a glass. Guess what? I took the wrong glass, and sipped some engine degreaser, based on phosphoric acid. Strongest taste I ever got! Took me a week to recover. Serge Vidal KR2 "Kilimanjaro Cloud" Paris, France "Doug Rupert" Envoyé par : krnet-bounces@mylist.net 2005-03-14 18:06 Veuillez répondre à KRnet Remis le : 2005-03-14 18:07 Pour : "'KRnet'" cc : (ccc : Serge VIDAL/DNSA/SAGEM) Objet : RE: KR> painting metal parts Go down to the local hardware store and get yourself a bottle of industrial strength toilet bowl cleaner (stronger than CLR) and pour or paint it on the aluminum part. Wait a couple of minutes and flush with water. BTW don't get that crap on your hands, don't ask how I know. Basically a watered down version of muratic acid (the stuff they use to etch concrete). Works like a charm and unlike it's full strength partner will not harm the metal. In the old days we used to use Coke to remove rust from chrome car parts. Doug Rupert -- Internal Virus Database is out-of-date. Checked by AVG Anti-Virus. Version: 7.0.308 / Virus Database: 266.6.2 - Release Date: 3/4/2005 _______________________________________ Search the KRnet Archives at http://www.maddyhome.com/krsrch/index.jsp to UNsubscribe from KRnet, send a message to KRnet-leave@mylist.net please see other KRnet info at http://www.krnet.org/info.html ------------------------------ Message: 23 Date: Mon, 14 Mar 2005 09:20:18 -0800 (PST) From: William Jeffries Subject: Re: Réf. : RE: KR> painting metal parts To: KRnet Message-ID: <20050314172018.33996.qmail@web90101.mail.scd.yahoo.com> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Serge, Either stop watching TV or stop drinking booze while work on KR parts. It's for your safety. Bill --- Serge VIDAL wrote: > If I remenber well, Coke is full of phosphoric acid. > > Once upon a time, I was cleaning some KR2 parts > while watching TV and > drinking booze. I had put the parts in a glass. > Guess what? I took the > wrong glass, and sipped some engine degreaser, based > on phosphoric acid. > Strongest taste I ever got! Took me a week to > recover. > > Serge Vidal > KR2 "Kilimanjaro Cloud" > Paris, France > > > > > > "Doug Rupert" > > Envoyé par : krnet-bounces@mylist.net > 2005-03-14 18:06 > Veuillez répondre à KRnet > Remis le : 2005-03-14 18:07 > > > Pour : "'KRnet'" > cc : (ccc : Serge VIDAL/DNSA/SAGEM) > Objet : RE: KR> painting metal parts > > > > Go down to the local hardware store and get yourself > a bottle of > industrial > strength toilet bowl cleaner (stronger than CLR) and > pour or paint it on > the > aluminum part. Wait a couple of minutes and flush > with water. BTW don't > get > that crap on your hands, don't ask how I know. > Basically a watered down > version of muratic acid (the stuff they use to etch > concrete). Works like > a > charm and unlike it's full strength partner will not > harm the metal. In > the > old days we used to use Coke to remove rust from > chrome car parts. > Doug Rupert > > -- > Internal Virus Database is out-of-date. > Checked by AVG Anti-Virus. > Version: 7.0.308 / Virus Database: 266.6.2 - Release > Date: 3/4/2005 > > > > _______________________________________ > Search the KRnet Archives at http://www.maddyhome.com/krsrch/index.jsp > to UNsubscribe from KRnet, send a message to > KRnet-leave@mylist.net > please see other KRnet info at > http://www.krnet.org/info.html > > _______________________________________ > Search the KRnet Archives at http://www.maddyhome.com/krsrch/index.jsp > to UNsubscribe from KRnet, send a message to > KRnet-leave@mylist.net > please see other KRnet info at > http://www.krnet.org/info.html > __________________________________ Do you Yahoo!? Yahoo! Small Business - Try our new resources site! http://smallbusiness.yahoo.com/resources/ ------------------------------ Message: 24 Date: Mon, 14 Mar 2005 10:11:19 -0800 (PST) From: Dennis Mingear Subject: Re: KR> WENT FROM LURKER TO BUILDER YESTERDAY! To: KRnet Message-ID: <20050314181120.52742.qmail@web51404.mail.yahoo.com> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Dan and Larry, thank you both very much for the replies. Fortunately there is no varnish on the boat or spar so I don't have to deal with that. I'm almost certain that the "white" epoxy" that was used for the initial build is FPL-16 from the Forest Products Labratory. Very good stuff, but I will change to T-88 for the rest of the build as I've used it before on other projects and it is easy to use and reliable. The water stains in the boat are very minimal so I think that an application of some BID will take care of that issue. As far as the fuselage "hole patch" goes, would it be possible to cut a round hole in the boat and carefully bevel the edge and then insert a plywood "plug" with a similiar bevel to get a nice tight fit and then put a couple of layers of BID on the inside of the fuselage to reinforce the repair? It would take a little "doing" but it would look nice when done. I'm going to use some sheer 3/4 ounce cloth from a model supply house on the outside of the boat when the time comes so I will have a nice finish on the outside of the boat also. One more quick question, Are the rear attach fittings from Dr Dean different than the stock KR-2 rear attach fittings? I thought that I read somewhere in the archives that the Dr Dean rear attach fittings are for the KR-2S wing and that they have a 3 degree bend in them. Is this true or did I simply "misremember" something and it's no problem. I need KR-2 plans so I'll be getting some from RR soon. Thanks again ... Denny Dan Heath wrote: Denny, Welcome in out of the cold from Lurkerland. See my comments below. See N64KR at http://KR-Builder.org - Then click on the pics There is a time for building and a time for FLYING and the time for building has expired. Daniel R. Heath - Columbia, SC See you in Mt. Vernon - 2005 - KR Gathering -------Original Message------- What type of resin was used to make these cowls? I have never seen any that were not Vinyl Ester, you can tell by the aroma when you sand it. You can repair it using any resin as long as you sand the surface to rough. I would just put one layer of KR cloth on the inside and one on the outside overlapping the crack by about 2". I use AeroPoxy. Certainly VinylEster on VinylEster is best, but I don't like to use it and don't like to pay the Hazmat shipping charges and don't like the thought of using a "hazmat". Should I be concerned about this and remove the stained plywood and scarf in some new plywood? It will not be visible so from a cosmetic point of view it is not a problem. I would have to see it to be able to give you a better answer, but if you are concerned about it, you can fix it by laying another layer of plywood over the area and glue it down with T-88, which could be sloppy, or could just put a layer of lightweight KR cloth over it. Whatever you do, be sure that there is no varnish on the area as your glues or resins will not stick to it. Some people glass in the whole fuselage with deck cloth anyway, which I don't recommend. If there is varnish on any area that you need to use glue or resin, sand it off very clean and then vacuum up the residue and clean that with something like Acetone. There is a small hole in the side of the boat just behind the rear spar mounting location, several inches up from the bottom about the size of my fist. What should I do to repair this? No problem. Cut the hole clean. Cut out a piece of the 3/32" plywood used for the skin, larger than the resulting hole. Glue it to the inside of the fuselage. Remember, no varnish and use T-88. A good clamp can be made from 1/4" strips of 2X4 cut just slightly longer than the width of the fuselage at the point of the damage. Stick on the repair patch and brace it with the sticks. Then after that cures, cut out another piece of plywood to fit the resulting hole and glue it in that space. You can hold it in place with aluminum pop rivets or Clicoes if you have them. Fill with Super Fil or something like that. What is this adhesive and should I continue with it for the rest of the build? I would use T-88 and really can't know what the old stuff is. I have Dr. Dean wing attach fittings and I would like to use them on the KR-2 wings with the "new" 15% airfoill. Kind of a KR-2S wing on a KR-2. Any problems with doing this? No problem using the new wing on a KR2, at least that is what I hear on the net. I believe that is what Troy did. Welcome and Happy Building. See you at the Gathering. _______________________________________ Search the KRnet Archives at http://www.maddyhome.com/krsrch/index.jsp to UNsubscribe from KRnet, send a message to KRnet-leave@mylist.net please see other KRnet info at http://www.krnet.org/info.html "I can train a monkey to wave an American flag. That does not make the monkey patriotic." Scott Ritter __________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? Tired of spam? Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around http://mail.yahoo.com ------------------------------ _______________________________________________ See KRnet list details at http://www.krnet.org/instructions.html End of KRnet Digest, Vol 347, Issue 103 *************************************** ================================== ABC Amber Outlook Converter v4.20 Trial version ==================================