From: krnet-bounces+johnbou=speakeasy.net@mylist.net To: John Bouyea Subject: KRnet Digest, Vol 347, Issue 169 Date: 4/30/2005 4:11:36 PM Send KRnet mailing list submissions to krnet@mylist.net To subscribe or unsubscribe via the World Wide Web, visit http://mylist.net/listinfo/krnet or, via email, send a message with subject or body 'help' to krnet-request@mylist.net You can reach the person managing the list at krnet-owner@mylist.net When replying, please edit your Subject line so it is more specific than "Re: Contents of KRnet digest..." Today's Topics: 1. Re: Oxygen sensors (David Mikesell) 2. O2 sensor (Martindale Family) 3. O2 sensors (Colin & Bev Rainey) 4. RE: tip of the day (Mac McConnell-Wood) 5. EFI contrast to Ron Slender remarks (Colin & Bev Rainey) 6. Re: O2 sensors (Martindale Family) 7. Re: Synthetic oil (Dan Heath) 8. Re: Synthetic oil (pole shed) 9. Re: Synthetic oil (pole shed) 10. Re: Oxygen sensors (Mark Langford) 11. Re: Synthetic oil (VIRGIL N SALISBURY) 12. Re: Oxygen sensors (David Mikesell) 13. Re: Synthetic oil (JAMES C FERRIS) 14. O2 sensors (Colin & Bev Rainey) 15. engine (Martha Crawford) 16. Flipping the fuselage (Donald Reid) 17. Re: engine (William Jeffries) 18. Re: Flipping the fuselage (Phillip Matheson) 19. the internet: friend or foe? (Oscar Zuniga) 20. tip of the day (Kevin Jarvis) 21. Re: Flipping the fuselage (Dan Heath) 22. Re: O2 sensors (Martindale Family) ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Message: 1 Date: Fri, 29 Apr 2005 20:58:36 -0700 From: "David Mikesell" Subject: Re: KR> Oxygen sensors To: "KRnet" Message-ID: <000501c54d38$e2f45d60$6801a8c0@DavidMikesell> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" I had installed one on a gyro with a geo engine. While the Geo ran fine on the avgas the sensor lasted about 8 hrs before it started showing the wrong mixture then failing in the next 3 hours. The gauge can be bought at any autoparts store or on ebay, I think I paid $35 for mine off ebay. David Mikesell 23597 N. Hwy 99 Acampo, CA 95220 209-609-8774 skyguynca@skyguynca.com www.skyguynca.com ----- Original Message ----- From: "Martindale Family" To: "KRnet" Sent: Friday, April 29, 2005 8:48 PM Subject: KR> Oxygen sensors > Hi Folks > > Does anyone out there have experience with these things. I'm thinking > of installing one to monitor mixtures but the wide band ones seem costly and I wonder whether they'd last on Avgas even 100LL because of the lead. Is there one around that doesn't get poisoned. Also does anyone know of a 2 1/4 dial or similiar to suit. > > John > > The Martindale Family > 29 Jane Circuit > TOORMINA NSW 2452 > AUSTRALIA > > phone: 61 2 66584767 > email: johnjanet@optusnet.com.au > _______________________________________ > Search the KRnet Archives at http://www.maddyhome.com/krsrch/index.jsp > to UNsubscribe from KRnet, send a message to KRnet-leave@mylist.net > please see other KRnet info at http://www.krnet.org/info.html ------------------------------ Message: 2 Date: Sat, 30 Apr 2005 16:07:08 +1000 From: "Martindale Family" Subject: KR> O2 sensor To: "KRnet" Message-ID: <000801c54d4a$d8cf2560$da26ecdc@athlon2400> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Hi folks For those interested I found the following site relating to the Bosch wideband sensor (LSU 4 series) http://wbo2.com/lsu/lsu4.htm It says that Avgas 100LL contains 0.56 gm/litre lead and that the sensor will poison in about 200 hours....perhaps I should use automotive lead free fuel in my bird?? Wideband sensors are much more expensive than the more common narrow band ones but provide a much more accurate signal over a greater air/fuel ratio range. There are a heap of gauges at www.summitracing.com but most seem to rely on narrow band sensors. Cheapest I could find were the Cyberdyne CYB-7009 LED bar graph (like the older Intellitronix that Mark L shows) at $36-95 and sensor CYB-8941 at $59-95. John The Martindale Family 29 Jane Circuit TOORMINA NSW 2452 AUSTRALIA phone: 61 2 66584767 email: johnjanet@optusnet.com.au ------------------------------ Message: 3 Date: Sat, 30 Apr 2005 04:42:46 -0400 From: "Colin & Bev Rainey" Subject: KR> O2 sensors To: "KRnet" Message-ID: <004201c54d60$96de5700$c7432141@RaineyDay> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" John One wire O2 sensors located near the head in the exhaust in order to quickly heat up are the most reliable and simplest. The multi-wire have heating elements in them to allow the manufacturer to place them further downstream for wiring convenience and for things like monitoring catalytic converter efficiency. A simple sweep needle volt meter on the 1 volt scale, or read on the 1 volt scale is all you need. If you are balanced in your mixture then the needle will hover around .5 volts. If it swings towards 1 volt or keeps swinging that way you are running lean, if swinging or staying near or at 0 volts then mixture is rich. Watch when you accelerate and you will confirm this. We used a simple volt/ohm meter to check older O2 sensors all the time to save having to remove them, only to find the problem was elsewhere. This is probably also one of the only computer sensors from earlier engines that only read 1 volt or less. All others read at least 5 volts, some 12 volts. By labeling the volt gauge ahead of time, the voltage will make sense when you are reading it, and you won't spend a ton for the parts. O2 wire pigtail can be had at AutoZone or Advance Auto Parts or equivalent auto parts house as a repair pigtail for one wire O2 sensor. These are also the cheapest O2 sensors at about $18. Hardest part is getting the nut welded on the pipe. Uses a 7/8" wrench to install. Always use alittle Permatex Anti-seize to prevent it rusting in place. Spark plug torque of 20 foot pounds works good, no more. Any more might crack it internally, or ring it off. Colin crainey1@cfl.rr.com http://kr-builder.org/Colin/index.html KR2(td) N96TA Sanford, FL Apex Lending, Inc. 407-323-6960 (p) 407-557-3260 (f) crainey@apexlending.com ------------------------------ Message: 4 Date: Sat, 30 Apr 2005 09:12:09 +0000 From: "Mac McConnell-Wood" Subject: RE: KR> tip of the day To: krnet@mylist.net Message-ID: Content-Type: text/plain; format=flowed Hi Larry and all, Perlease don't use air pressure to remove a stuck piston -I had one go thru a hydraulic bay wall using hydraulic oil which hadn't been bled and had a smidgen of air in it. Take care . Mac macwood@hotmail.co.uk a s >From: larry flesner >Reply-To: KRnet >To: KRnet >Subject: KR> tip of the day >Date: Fri, 29 Apr 2005 11:00:55 -0500 > > > >The YEEEE HAAAAAA Maintenance tip of the day. >I was cleaning/rebuilding a set of Cleveland >wheels and brakes and discovered a problem of one puck frozen in place. >No amount of soaking in several solutions and applying 100 pounds of >air pressure would remove it. > >Larry Flesner > > > >_______________________________________ >Search the KRnet Archives at http://www.maddyhome.com/krsrch/index.jsp >to UNsubscribe from KRnet, send a message to KRnet-leave@mylist.net >please see other KRnet info at http://www.krnet.org/info.html ------------------------------ Message: 5 Date: Sat, 30 Apr 2005 05:20:17 -0400 From: "Colin & Bev Rainey" Subject: KR> EFI contrast to Ron Slender remarks To: "KRnet" Message-ID: <004d01c54d65$d33f16d0$c7432141@RaineyDay> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Phillip and netters I would like to point out in brief responses to the comments by Ron Slender having been trained to diagnose vehicles the way that Ron has described his research with his aviation EFI. First off let me say that no aircraft I know of without a turbine engine has had its engine operating in as harsh an environment as automobiles today are designed to run in routinely. Car alternators are expected to output 60, 70, sometimes as much as 100 amps in some of the newest vehicles, while underhood temperatures on an 85 degree day with reflected heat into the engine compartment will reach over 500 degrees, and still they are expected not to fail. Just one part. At the same time the same car 3000 miles away has to be able to also function just as well in below freezing temperatures, AND keep us comfortable inside. No aircraft I know for less than $400,000 can do that nor are they designed to do that. Not putting anything down, just making an observation. All late model cars that I know of and light trucks have the fuel pump also controlled by the computer, so this is a moot point. Virtually all domestic cars after 1990 have magnetic trigger/pickup for their ignition in one version or another, so no distributor to break or wear out. Both Cam and crank position are known by the computer. MAP (manifold absolute pressure) sensors is old technology and if Ron is designing around this he is at least 10 years behind. Real time MAF (mass air flow) meters actually measure the volume of incoming air which is much more precise than the approximate measurement of the MAP sensor. MAP sensors work very well for batch fire injection, which is where one whole bank of injectors fire or spray at once. But if you are using sequential injection, you really need the accuracy of the MAF to get the most out of the system, and handle all the engine running conditions. TBI fuel systems regularly run on as little as 5 psi, and max at 15 psi. EFI systems range from 20-30 psi upwards of 50-60 psi in domestics, and some European systems as high as 80 psi (most are back down to domestic as well now). This is high pressure but also allows the system to be able to handle the adjustments over a much wider range than in the early versions. Rather than using some rare spark plug that will cost $16 a piece, using a capacitive discharge system straight off a domestic car will produce anywhere from 60-90kv through platinum, or double platinum plugs that will last several years minimum. Timing is fully electronic with crank and cam sensors, coolant temp sensor for engine temp, air charge temp for incoming air temp, knock sensor for retard, and O2 sensors for checking accuracy of mixture control. No need for all that expensive re-working of the fuel map, the manufacturer has all that pre-programmed into the computer, and will handle all the variety of loads that the engine will experience. Remember, they had to plan on hill climbing, use in all parts of the country, running at sea level, and then up in the mountains, hot and cold. The computer doesn't know about altitude and doesn't care. All it cares about is matching the fuel mix to the incoming air, whatever that volume and temp. The only sensors that might cause problems (besides lead on the O2 sensor), is any transmission sensors. Be sure to select a manual transmission vehicle for easiest conversion. Wire looms/harness already assembled at the factory. Just remove completely, and re-install. Includes weather seal connectors. OBD I computers require no battery to maintain programming so once the PROM chip is installed, the basics are already there. All that has to be done is run the engine to establish the baseline for the adaptive memory, and you are rockin. Just can't see any good reason to buy someone's "latest developments" when that has already been done a decade ago. If you know how it works, use it. crainey1@cfl.rr.com http://kr-builder.org/Colin/index.html KR2(td) N96TA Sanford, FL Apex Lending, Inc. 407-323-6960 (p) 407-557-3260 (f) crainey@apexlending.com ------------------------------ Message: 6 Date: Sat, 30 Apr 2005 19:21:48 +1000 From: "Martindale Family" Subject: Re: KR> O2 sensors To: "KRnet" Message-ID: <000401c54d66$0911eda0$da26ecdc@athlon2400> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Hi Colin Your valuable advice sounds encouraging. Do you happen to know whether some types are more lead resistant than others? My newly gained (about 10 hours old now) understanding is that these narrow band sensors are good for ratios between about 12:1 (rich, 0v) and 15:1 (lean, 1v) with 14.7:1 (stoich, 0.5v). Although the wide band sensors can get from about 10 to 17, I doubt I'd need that scale. I'm mainly interested in monitoring mixture at different throttle settings (flat spots) and altitudes (so I can set my Weber man jets on the ground for best compromise) and the narrow band units would reveal the trend. It's the bloody lead that's the hassle. Thanks John The Martindale Family 29 Jane Circuit TOORMINA NSW 2452 AUSTRALIA phone: 61 2 66584767 email: johnjanet@optusnet.com.au ----- Original Message ----- From: "Colin & Bev Rainey" To: "KRnet" Sent: Saturday, April 30, 2005 6:42 PM Subject: KR> O2 sensors > John > One wire O2 sensors located near the head in the exhaust in order to quickly heat up are the most reliable and simplest. The multi-wire have heating elements in them to allow the manufacturer to place them further downstream for wiring convenience and for things like monitoring catalytic converter efficiency. A simple sweep needle volt meter on the 1 volt scale, or read on the 1 volt scale is all you need. If you are balanced in your mixture then the needle will hover around .5 volts. If it swings towards 1 volt or keeps swinging that way you are running lean, if swinging or staying near or at 0 volts then mixture is rich. Watch when you accelerate and you will confirm this. We used a simple volt/ohm meter to check older O2 sensors all the time to save having to remove them, only to find the problem was elsewhere. This is probably also one of the only computer sensors from earlier engines that only read 1 volt or less. All others read at least 5 volts, some 12 volts. By labeling the volt gauge ahead of time, the voltage will make sense when you are reading it, and you won't spend a ton for the parts. O2 wire pigtail can be had at AutoZone or Advance Auto Parts or equivalent auto parts house as a repair pigtail for one wire O2 sensor. These are also the cheapest O2 sensors at about $18. Hardest part is getting the nut welded on the pipe. Uses a 7/8" wrench to install. Always use alittle Permatex Anti-seize to prevent it rusting in place. Spark plug torque of 20 foot pounds works good, no more. Any more might crack it internally, or ring it off. > > Colin > > crainey1@cfl.rr.com > http://kr-builder.org/Colin/index.html > KR2(td) N96TA > Sanford, FL > Apex Lending, Inc. > 407-323-6960 (p) > 407-557-3260 (f) > crainey@apexlending.com _______________________________________ > Search the KRnet Archives at http://www.maddyhome.com/krsrch/index.jsp > to UNsubscribe from KRnet, send a message to KRnet-leave@mylist.net > please see other KRnet info at http://www.krnet.org/info.html ------------------------------ Message: 7 Date: Sat, 30 Apr 2005 05:41:25 -0400 (Eastern Daylight Time) From: "Dan Heath" Subject: Re: KR> Synthetic oil To: Message-ID: <427352C5.000003.03696@DANHOMECOMPUTER> Content-Type: Text/Plain; charset="iso-8859-1" About 15 years ago, I was told that synthetic oils do not dissipate heat as well as the other oils. Is this no longer the case, or maybe that was bad information even back then. This is important for air/oil cooled engines. See you in Mt. Vernon - 2005 - KR Gathering See N64KR at http://KR-Builder.org - Then click on the pics There is a time for building and a time for FLYING and the time for building has expired. Daniel R. Heath - Columbia, SC -------Original Message------- VW/Audi recently had a big "AD" that basically says "use nothing but 5W-40 synthetic for practically all conditions ------------------------------ Message: 8 Date: Sat, 30 Apr 2005 05:45:51 -0700 (PDT) From: pole shed Subject: Re: KR> Synthetic oil To: KRnet Message-ID: <20050430124551.33928.qmail@web31101.mail.mud.yahoo.com> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii The synthetic oil (Hydrotex) I sold dissipated heat much better than conventional oils. My truck ran noticeably cooler in the summer and accross the desert. It is not labeled for aircraft use, but..... I used the partly synthetic oil available in 1989 in my 1988 Escort for over 255,000 miles and when the pistons broke from fatigue, I almost reused the old bearing inserts because they were still in such great shape. --- Dan Heath wrote: > About 15 years ago, I was told that synthetic oils > do not dissipate heat as > well as the other oils. Is this no longer the case, > or maybe that was bad > information even back then. This is important for > air/oil cooled engines. __________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? Tired of spam? Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around http://mail.yahoo.com ------------------------------ Message: 9 Date: Sat, 30 Apr 2005 05:46:45 -0700 (PDT) From: pole shed Subject: Re: KR> Synthetic oil To: KRnet Message-ID: <20050430124645.34211.qmail@web31101.mail.mud.yahoo.com> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Sorry, forgot to sign the note. Larry Lipe Carbondale,IL MSGT USMC(Ret) __________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? Tired of spam? Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around http://mail.yahoo.com ------------------------------ Message: 10 Date: Sat, 30 Apr 2005 07:58:19 -0500 From: "Mark Langford" Subject: Re: KR> Oxygen sensors To: "KRnet" Message-ID: <004601c54d84$48914930$1202a8c0@1700xp> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" John Martindale wrote: > Does anyone out there have experience with these things? I have one and I love it! I was doing some engine testing yesterday and marveled over how handy it was to know exactly what was going on with the engine. Now that my engine is running perfectly, the mixture gauge immediately tells me why it running "rough" (that's slightly less than perfectly smooth) by indicating either rich or lean. It's a lot faster than trying to decipher the EGT display, and the response is almost instant. I heard the sensor will last 100 hours, but David's experience calls that into serious question. As has been mentioned, the type or brand makes a difference, and I'll bet the location matters too. Sounds like some experimentation is in order! It's a simple enough exercise to weld another bung in place, so I may move mine around a little, once I do some internet research and figure out where the best sensor location normally is. There are several photos at http://home.hiwaay.net/~langford/corvair/first_runs/ that show my meter, as well as the O2 sensor (a $30 Bosch one-wire) installed in the exhaust pipe. I highly recommend one! Steve Makish has one and he wouldn't part with it either. In other news, my engine is running great now (put a "new" head on the pilot's side), with EGTs all in the same neighborhood, and pulls 3000 rpm with the repitched Sterba 54x66 (whatever that makes it now). It's probably still a little too much pitch, but I can certainly fly with it and find out! John will be interested to know that 3000 is exactly what it would pull with the Weber, so the Weber is no worse than the high dollar Ellison. Mark Langford, Huntsville, Alabama see KR2S project N56ML at http://home.hiwaay.net/~langford email to N56ML "at" hiwaay.net -------------------------------------------------------------- ------------------------------ Message: 11 Date: Sat, 30 Apr 2005 09:07:20 -0400 From: VIRGIL N SALISBURY Subject: Re: KR> Synthetic oil To: krnet@mylist.net Message-ID: <20050430.092342.2852.0.virgnvs@juno.com> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii BAD info from the get go! Best for heat and friction reducing, Virg On Sat, 30 Apr 2005 05:41:25 -0400 (Eastern Daylight Time) "Dan Heath" writes: > About 15 years ago, I was told that synthetic oils do not dissipate > heat as > well as the other oils. Is this no longer the case, or maybe that > was bad > information even back then. This is important for air/oil cooled > engines. > > See you in Mt. Vernon - 2005 - KR Gathering > See N64KR at http://KR-Builder.org - Then click on the pics > There is a time for building and a time for FLYING and the time for > building > has expired. > Daniel R. Heath - Columbia, SC > -------Original Message------- > > VW/Audi recently had a big "AD" that basically > says "use nothing but 5W-40 synthetic for practically all > conditions > _______________________________________ > Search the KRnet Archives at > http://www.maddyhome.com/krsrch/index.jsp > to UNsubscribe from KRnet, send a message to KRnet-leave@mylist.net > please see other KRnet info at http://www.krnet.org/info.html > > Virgil N. Salisbury - AMSOIL www.lubedealer.com/salisbury Miami ,Fl ------------------------------ Message: 12 Date: Sat, 30 Apr 2005 06:56:11 -0700 From: "David Mikesell" Subject: Re: KR> Oxygen sensors To: "KRnet" Message-ID: <003301c54d8c$5decfe20$6801a8c0@DavidMikesell> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" The sensor I bought was the $12 generic one wire from Autozone. It was mounted in the collector of my exhaust. I was very surprised when the gauge started showing it running leaner after just 8 hours and failing with in the next 3. I was told that the heated ones mounted further down the pipe are less likely to suffer from lead poisoning from avgas and would last much longer, but since it was just a experiment to see how they worked I did not want to spend the extra $. David Mikesell 23597 N. Hwy 99 Acampo, CA 95220 209-609-8774 skyguynca@skyguynca.com www.skyguynca.com ----- Original Message ----- From: "Mark Langford" To: "KRnet" Sent: Saturday, April 30, 2005 5:58 AM Subject: Re: KR> Oxygen sensors > John Martindale wrote: > > > Does anyone out there have experience with these things? > > I have one and I love it! I was doing some engine testing yesterday > and marveled over how handy it was to know exactly what was going on > with the engine. Now that my engine is running perfectly, the mixture > gauge immediately tells me why it running "rough" (that's slightly > less than perfectly smooth) by indicating either rich or lean. It's a > lot faster than > trying to decipher the EGT display, and the response is almost > instant. I heard the sensor will last 100 hours, but David's > experience calls that into > serious question. As has been mentioned, the type or brand makes a > difference, and I'll bet the location matters too. Sounds like some > experimentation is in order! It's a simple enough exercise to weld another > bung in place, so I may move mine around a little, once I do some > internet research and figure out where the best sensor location > normally is. > > There are several photos at > http://home.hiwaay.net/~langford/corvair/first_runs/ that show my > meter, as > well as the O2 sensor (a $30 Bosch one-wire) installed in the exhaust pipe. > I highly recommend one! Steve Makish has one and he wouldn't part > with it either. > > In other news, my engine is running great now (put a "new" head on > the pilot's side), with EGTs all in the same neighborhood, and pulls > 3000 rpm with the repitched Sterba 54x66 (whatever that makes it now). > It's probably > still a little too much pitch, but I can certainly fly with it and > find out! > John will be interested to know that 3000 is exactly what it would > pull with > the Weber, so the Weber is no worse than the high dollar Ellison. > > Mark Langford, Huntsville, Alabama > see KR2S project N56ML at http://home.hiwaay.net/~langford email to > N56ML "at" hiwaay.net > -------------------------------------------------------------- > > > _______________________________________ > Search the KRnet Archives at http://www.maddyhome.com/krsrch/index.jsp > to UNsubscribe from KRnet, send a message to KRnet-leave@mylist.net > please see other KRnet info at http://www.krnet.org/info.html ------------------------------ Message: 13 Date: Sat, 30 Apr 2005 10:09:14 -0400 From: JAMES C FERRIS Subject: Re: KR> Synthetic oil To: krnet@mylist.net Message-ID: <20050430.100914.1484.0.mijnil@juno.com> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii I put Amsoil in two of my vehicles in 1980 and both of them failed within 5,000 miles, the VW swolled a valve and busted the piston and rod and the Peugeot wore out the valve guides. The auro's only had 25,000 miles when i changed to Amsoil. Needles to say, I would not use it on anything. Jim On Sat, 30 Apr 2005 05:41:25 -0400 (Eastern Daylight Time) "Dan Heath" writes: > About 15 years ago, I was told that synthetic oils do not dissipate > heat as > well as the other oils. Is this no longer the case, or maybe that > was bad > information even back then. This is important for air/oil cooled > engines. > > See you in Mt. Vernon - 2005 - KR Gathering > See N64KR at http://KR-Builder.org - Then click on the pics > There is a time for building and a time for FLYING and the time for > building > has expired. > Daniel R. Heath - Columbia, SC > -------Original Message------- > > VW/Audi recently had a big "AD" that basically > says "use nothing but 5W-40 synthetic for practically all > conditions > _______________________________________ > Search the KRnet Archives at > http://www.maddyhome.com/krsrch/index.jsp > to UNsubscribe from KRnet, send a message to KRnet-leave@mylist.net > please see other KRnet info at http://www.krnet.org/info.html > > ------------------------------ Message: 14 Date: Sat, 30 Apr 2005 13:11:26 -0400 From: "Colin & Bev Rainey" Subject: KR> O2 sensors To: "KRnet" Message-ID: <003c01c54da7$a4adadd0$c7432141@RaineyDay> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" John Using a wideband sensor is pretty much useless because if you get richer than 12:1 at anything above sea level, except on acceleration maybe, you will completely foul out the plugs, and your fuel gauge will race your tachometer to zero! Anything leaner than 15:1 will probably make the cylinder so hot internally that you will begin detonating in short order. Most engines I am familiar with cannot run under load at stoichemetric, only at cruise. The one wires are cheap and will be very resistant to contamination for a good while. Bosch sells the best ones that last the longest. Colin crainey1@cfl.rr.com http://kr-builder.org/Colin/index.html KR2(td) N96TA Sanford, FL Apex Lending, Inc. 407-323-6960 (p) 407-557-3260 (f) crainey@apexlending.com ------------------------------ Message: 15 Date: Sat, 30 Apr 2005 14:52:44 -0400 From: Martha Crawford Subject: KR> engine To: KRnet Message-ID: <09679F64-B9A9-11D9-B7F7-000A95D27864@simerson.net> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=US-ASCII; format=flowed Hi all I got my Engine home last night. I'm in the process of taking off the stuff I don't need. I have put up pictures on my web page. Have a nice day Keith Crawford lansing MI http://www.u-r-on.net/gallery/kr ------------------------------ Message: 16 Date: Sat, 30 Apr 2005 18:11:41 -0400 From: Donald Reid Subject: KR> Flipping the fuselage To: KRnet Message-ID: <6.1.0.6.2.20050430180301.01b2e988@mail.peoplepc.com> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"; format=flowed I flipped my fuselage today to do the surface prep and final paint on the bottom. It will be upside down for about a month until the bottom is complete through final paint. The weather was bad so I did not take very many pictures but I will add more when it gets turned over. My flipping rig is similar to others I have seen on some of the KR web pages, but I made mine wider than most. Mine is attached at the main spar with the wing attachment fittings and some brackets that I welded up out of scrap. It is also attached to the fire wall and has lots of bracing. I had a total of nine people (and my wife watching the show). If I add wheels to the top (which is now on the ground) of the structure, it can be done with as few as four or five. Don Reid - donreid "at" peoplepc.com Bumpass, Va Visit my web sites at: AeroFoil, a 2-D Airfoil Design And Analysis Computer Program: http://aerofoilengineering.com KR2XL construction: http://aerofoilengineering.com/KR/KR2XL.htm Aviation Surplus: http://aerofoilengineering.com/PartsListing/Airparts.htm EAA Chapter 231: http://eaa231.org Ultralights: http://usua250.org VA EAA State Fly-in: http://vaeaa.org ------------------------------ Message: 17 Date: Sat, 30 Apr 2005 15:20:46 -0700 (PDT) From: William Jeffries Subject: Re: KR> engine To: KRnet Message-ID: <20050430222046.59301.qmail@web90105.mail.scd.yahoo.com> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Keith, Looks real good considering it only 40 years old or so. One of mine that I took apart had the oil pan all gnarled. I'm going with a deep sump on that. Bill --- Martha Crawford wrote: > Hi all > > I got my Engine home last night. > I'm in the process of taking off the stuff I don't > need. > I have put up pictures on my web page. > Have a nice day > > Keith Crawford > lansing MI > http://www.u-r-on.net/gallery/kr > > > _______________________________________ > Search the KRnet Archives at http://www.maddyhome.com/krsrch/index.jsp > to UNsubscribe from KRnet, send a message to > KRnet-leave@mylist.net > please see other KRnet info at > http://www.krnet.org/info.html > __________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? Tired of spam? Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around http://mail.yahoo.com ------------------------------ Message: 18 Date: Sun, 1 May 2005 08:47:43 +1000 From: "Phillip Matheson" Subject: Re: KR> Flipping the fuselage To: "KRnet" Message-ID: <005b01c54dd6$9f48dde0$25b1dccb@StationW2k04> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" I had a total of nine people (and my wife watching the show). If I add wheels to the top (which is now on the ground) of the structure, it can be done with as few as four or five. --------------------------------------------------- When I flipped my KR, ( No engine) I welded a old piece of pipe to a square plate, bolted this plate to the four engine mounts points on the engine mount. ( about the centre on the firewall. I lifted the front with a small rope pulley, Tied the rope to the round pipe, ( the rope allowed the pipe to turn) I walked around to the tail, with the assistance of one other person I turned it over with out taking it out side. worked great. Similar to picking it up by the prop and turning it over by the spars with the tail lifted in the air. Phillip Matheson matheson@dodo.com.au Australia VH PKR See our engines and kits at. http://www.vw-engines.com/ http://www.homebuilt-aviation.com/ See my KR Construction web page at http://mywebpage.netscape.com/FlyingKRPhil/VHPKR.html Search the KRnet Archives at http://www.maddyhome.com/krsrch/index.jsp to UNsubscribe from KRnet, send a message to KRnet-leave@mylist.net please see other KRnet info at http://www.krnet.org/info.html ------------------------------ Message: 19 Date: Sat, 30 Apr 2005 17:53:06 -0500 From: "Oscar Zuniga" Subject: KR> the internet: friend or foe? To: krnet@mylist.net, corvaircraft@mylist.net Message-ID: Content-Type: text/plain; format=flowed Call me slow, but I'm just now reading the letters to the editor in the current "Sport Pilot" and see a letter from Mark Langford rebutting William Wynne's article about the internet and email lists. Mark's point is that the lists have value, while William's article posited that they only lead to conjecture, endless discussions, and non-expert "experts". Of course, the letter right after Mark's was from Bob Lester, and it was a counterpoint to Mark's. Less filling... more taste. Which is it? ;o) Myself, I've learned an immeasurable amount about experimental aviation and related topics from my 12+ years on the internet and email lists, but so far have not completed 12+ nor flown a single homebuilt! Oscar Zuniga do not archive San Antonio, TX mailto: taildrags@hotmail.com website at http://www.flysquirrel.net ------------------------------ Message: 20 Date: Sat, 30 Apr 2005 18:54:54 -0400 From: Kevin Jarvis Subject: KR> tip of the day To: krnet@mylist.net. Message-ID: <42740CBE.3020608@comcast.net> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1; format=flowed Greetings, Grease can also be used to remove the pilot shaft bushing in the standard trans engine crankshafts prior to modifications. Sand, grind, or carve a piece of broom handle or large dowel to just fit in the pilot shaft bushing. It should go into the bushing at least as far as the bushing is deep, maybe an inch or more. Fill the cavity and the pilot bushing with gun grease and then insert the "tool". Cover the base with a rage to reduce any splatter in the wife's kitchen and then smack the end of the tool with a hammer and the bushing will be hydraulically forced out of the crankshaft with minimal effort. Last week I was cleaning a Corvair oil pump housing that had the oil pump relief valve stuck in the bore due to corrosion (rust). I had been soaking it for over a week in Kroil trying to loosen it up, all to no avail. I saw WW at SNF and asked him what he would suggest. He said that he used a bent narrow brass drift to sometimes pry them toward the open end. I didn't have such a tool and none to bend either. But I did have a survey stake and some grease. The stake was not the lath size but a pointed 1x2 about 15" long. I carved the point into a square that would fit the channel that is at the end of the relief valve stop. Then I filled that cavity with grease and proceeded to smack that. Don't forget the rag, don't want to get mommas kitchen table messy. At first I thought that it wasn't working. Grease kept pushing out by the stake. You do want these to fit snug, and mine could have been better. Anyway I kept filling the cavity and tapping the stake and before long, wah-lah, grease squirted out the round hole where you can look in and see the side of the valve. I could move it then with a small pick. Moving it back and forth I finally got it out. Twenty minutes later and a partial sheet of emery paper for the valve and the bore, it was like new. Enjoy Kevin ------------------------------ Message: 21 Date: Sat, 30 Apr 2005 18:57:44 -0400 (Eastern Daylight Time) From: "Dan Heath" Subject: Re: KR> Flipping the fuselage To: Message-ID: <42740D68.000001.03724@DANHOMECOMPUTER> Content-Type: Text/Plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Phil, Where are the pics? See you in Mt. Vernon - 2005 - KR Gathering See N64KR at http://KR-Builder.org - Then click on the pics There is a time for building and a time for FLYING and the time for building has expired. Daniel R. Heath - Columbia, SC -------Original Message------- Similar to picking it up by the prop and turning it over by the spars with the tail lifted in the air. _______________________________________ Search the KRnet Archives at http://www.maddyhome.com/krsrch/index.jsp to UNsubscribe from KRnet, send a message to KRnet-leave@mylist.net please see other KRnet info at http://www.krnet.org/info.html ------------------------------ Message: 22 Date: Sun, 1 May 2005 09:08:09 +1000 From: "Martindale Family" Subject: Re: KR> O2 sensors To: "KRnet" Message-ID: <002801c54dd9$9ca18440$da26ecdc@athlon2400> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Agree completely. I have a bid on EBay Australia for a new Bosch 11051 single wire as used on SAABs pre catalyst days. Currently at $5-50 AU, ie., only two beers. I also like the Nordskog gauge (NRD-M9200) at www.summitracing.com at $60 US which gives a numeric readout of ratio rather than a bar graph. As for lead......well at the cost of two beers who cares!! The Martindale Family 29 Jane Circuit TOORMINA NSW 2452 AUSTRALIA phone: 61 2 66584767 email: johnjanet@optusnet.com.au ----- Original Message ----- From: "Colin & Bev Rainey" To: "KRnet" Sent: Sunday, May 01, 2005 3:11 AM Subject: KR> O2 sensors > John > Using a wideband sensor is pretty much useless because if you get > richer than 12:1 at anything above sea level, except on acceleration maybe, you will completely foul out the plugs, and your fuel gauge will race your tachometer to zero! Anything leaner than 15:1 will probably make the cylinder so hot internally that you will begin detonating in short order. Most engines I am familiar with cannot run under load at stoichemetric, only at cruise. The one wires are cheap and will be very resistant to contamination for a good while. Bosch sells the best ones that last the longest. > > Colin > crainey1@cfl.rr.com > http://kr-builder.org/Colin/index.html > KR2(td) N96TA > Sanford, FL > Apex Lending, Inc. > 407-323-6960 (p) > 407-557-3260 (f) > crainey@apexlending.com _______________________________________ > Search the KRnet Archives at http://www.maddyhome.com/krsrch/index.jsp > to UNsubscribe from KRnet, send a message to KRnet-leave@mylist.net > please see other KRnet info at http://www.krnet.org/info.html ------------------------------ _______________________________________________ See KRnet list details at http://www.krnet.org/instructions.html End of KRnet Digest, Vol 347, Issue 169 *************************************** ================================== ABC Amber Outlook Converter v4.20 Trial version ==================================