From: krnet-bounces@mylist.net To: John Bouyea Subject: KRnet Digest, Vol 347, Issue 20 Date: 1/14/2005 8:59:17 PM Send KRnet mailing list submissions to krnet@mylist.net To subscribe or unsubscribe via the World Wide Web, visit http://mylist.net/listinfo/krnet or, via email, send a message with subject or body 'help' to krnet-request@mylist.net You can reach the person managing the list at krnet-owner@mylist.net When replying, please edit your Subject line so it is more specific than "Re: Contents of KRnet digest..." Today's Topics: 1. Re: Fw: Yahoo! Photos - glasseyegav's Photos - My KR2 S Project (Eduardo Iglesias) 2. Re: Fw: Yahoo! Photos - glasseyegav's Photos - My KR2 S Project (Glasseyegav) 3. RE: tri-carriage - split fuselage (Stephen Jacobs) 4. RE: firewall materials (Doug Rupert) 5. Gavin's Yahoo photos (F Ross) 6. R?f. : RE: KR> firewall materials (Serge VIDAL) 7. RE: Spam: KR> Loss of Power (Mark Jones) 8. Re: R?f. : RE: KR> firewall materials (larry severson) 9. KR1 (RENOSADLER@aol.com) 10. Re: tri-carriage (Dene Collett (SA)) 11. Aileron hinge size (Parley Byington) 12. Re: KR1 (Allen Wiesner ) 13. Re: Loss of Power (Barry Kruyssen) 14. Canopy questions. (Jim Morehead) 15. Re: Canopy questions. (jscott.pilot@juno.com) 16. Re: Canopy questions. (Dan Heath) ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Message: 1 Date: Fri, 14 Jan 2005 03:26:27 -0300 From: "Eduardo Iglesias" Subject: Re: KR> Fw: Yahoo! Photos - glasseyegav's Photos - My KR2 S Project To: "KRnet" Message-ID: <00f701c4fa01$faf6b500$876e55c8@iglesias> Content-Type: text/plain; format=flowed; charset="Windows-1252"; reply-type=original Hi Your dual controls is almost similar to mine, copied of the Pollywagen. This also has a third movement to use flaperons and negative aileron. Eduardo --- [This E-mail scanned for viruses by Declude Virus] ------------------------------ Message: 2 Date: Fri, 14 Jan 2005 16:49:31 +1000 From: "Glasseyegav" Subject: Re: KR> Fw: Yahoo! Photos - glasseyegav's Photos - My KR2 S Project To: "KRnet" Message-ID: <000901c4fa05$33642c80$0100000a@vic.bigpond.net.au> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Sort of a hybrid really, partly copied from Mark Langford's site partly my own design. Gavin > Your dual controls is almost similar to mine, copied of the > Pollywagen. ------------------------------ Message: 3 Date: Fri, 14 Jan 2005 09:54:59 +0200 From: "Stephen Jacobs" Subject: RE: KR> tri-carriage - split fuselage To: "'KRnet'" Message-ID: <000001c4fa0e$5f4c0440$0d64a8c0@stephen> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii" The previous owner had to cut the plane behind the cockpit to get it out of his garage, and I wonder if someone has some views on the best way to join the two parts. +++++++++++++++++ Andy You are on thin ice here, but the airplane can be joined without any hassles provided it is done properly. I would suggest that you get hold of Sybrand Strachen (he was with SAA and stayed in Boksburg) or one of the other "approved Persons" that knows his way around wood. You will have to involve one of them sooner or later anyway to get the bird signed off. It would be important to splice each longeron and diagonal (if applicable) with a doubler (splice) tapered at 1:10 (or 1:12) on each side of the break. It is highly unlikely that you will be able to "scarf" the existing longerons, so glue them together as is (where they were cut) taking great care to keep things straight - then add the splices (with dual taper) of the same material /dimensions. (Remember to do test pieces with the same batch of glue and material) Similarly, it makes no sense to try and scarf the existing ply skin for insets. Hopefully there is space on the inside for a 75mm strip of good quality 45 degree ply (similar thickness or greater) that is scarfed on both edges to be glued (centered) over the join. If not, you may have to locate the skin splice doubler on the outside - not as bad as it first sounds if you consider that the ply is under 3mm and the taper can be as flat as you wish (typically 25:1) provided you have the full depth width for the required distance either side of the join. There may be a composite solution for the skin join with a few layers of cloth resin inside and out - get advice from someone informed. It is not necessary to go for "belts and braces" - that would just add weight. In essence - a) ensure the continuity of each longeron (4) with a doubler (tapered on each end from 5/8" to zero over 6 to 8") PROPERLY glued. B) Similarly, ensure the continuity (of the forces within) the skin by joining them as above. Groete Steve J Lusaka ------------------------------ Message: 4 Date: Fri, 14 Jan 2005 03:40:06 -0500 From: "Doug Rupert" Subject: RE: KR> firewall materials To: "'KRnet'" Message-ID: <005101c4fa14$a8e77ed0$8104e440@office> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="windows-1250" There are advantages to being a farmer in tobacco country. The old drying kilns were built using asbestos and since it is no longer available I brought several sheet home and stored them in the barn. Nice stuff 1/3 inch thick 3 x 8 foot sheets. After covering with stainless the only thing coming thru the firewall will be an engine part in case of catastrophic failure. In that case I don't believe fire will be the foremost thing on my mind. Doug Rupert Simcoe Ontario. Don Chisholm wrote: Ithink that if ever things got that hot that the fumes given off past a sealed firewall bulkhead would be the least of your problems.Yes I have welded it, it has to be at fusion temperatures to give off fumes Don Chisholm -- No virus found in this outgoing message. Checked by AVG Anti-Virus. Version: 7.0.296 / Virus Database: 265.6.11 - Release Date: 1/12/2005 ------------------------------ Message: 5 Date: Fri, 14 Jan 2005 00:53:02 -0800 (PST) From: F Ross Subject: KR> Gavin's Yahoo photos To: KRnet Message-ID: <20050114085302.11106.qmail@web40906.mail.yahoo.com> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Nice job, Gavin, Thanks for sharing. Too bad you have to cover those controls, they're beautiful. Frank ===== Frank Ross, EAA Chapter 35, San Geronimo, TX RAF Lakenheath, Suffolk, England, UK Visit my photo album at: http://photos.yahoo.com/alamokr2 __________________________________ Do you Yahoo!? Yahoo! Mail - Find what you need with new enhanced search. http://info.mail.yahoo.com/mail_250 ------------------------------ Message: 6 Date: Fri, 14 Jan 2005 09:57:30 +0100 From: "Serge VIDAL" Subject: R?f. : RE: KR> firewall materials To: KRnet Message-ID: Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Now, guys, you do what you want, but personally, I won't want to have anything to do with asbestos. I would rather die from an engine fire than from a nasty, lengthy lung cancer! This being said, I don't have to die from an engine fire, since there are replacement materials, ceramics based, that do the job better, are lighter. But not cheaper, though. Serge Vidal KR2 ZS-WEC Paris, France "Doug Rupert" Envoyé par : krnet-bounces@mylist.net 2005-01-14 09:40 Veuillez répondre à KRnet Remis le : 2005-01-14 09:42 Pour : "'KRnet'" cc : (ccc : Serge VIDAL/DNSA/SAGEM) Objet : RE: KR> firewall materials There are advantages to being a farmer in tobacco country. The old drying kilns were built using asbestos and since it is no longer available I brought several sheet home and stored them in the barn. Nice stuff 1/3 inch thick 3 x 8 foot sheets. After covering with stainless the only thing coming thru the firewall will be an engine part in case of catastrophic failure. In that case I don't believe fire will be the foremost thing on my mind. Doug Rupert Simcoe Ontario. Don Chisholm wrote: Ithink that if ever things got that hot that the fumes given off past a sealed firewall bulkhead would be the least of your problems.Yes I have welded it, it has to be at fusion temperatures to give off fumes Don Chisholm -- No virus found in this outgoing message. Checked by AVG Anti-Virus. Version: 7.0.296 / Virus Database: 265.6.11 - Release Date: 1/12/2005 _______________________________________ Search the KRnet Archives at http://www.maddyhome.com/krsrch/index.jsp to UNsubscribe from KRnet, send a message to KRnet-leave@mylist.net please see other KRnet info at http://www.krnet.org/info.html ------------------------------ Message: 7 Date: Fri, 14 Jan 2005 07:08:56 -0600 From: Mark Jones Subject: RE: Spam: KR> Loss of Power To: 'KRnet' Message-ID: <370D915E4564D611B0530050DABB9FC2025ED1A6@SIC-EXCHANGE> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Barry, I was wondering what carb you are running on your Jab.? Mark Jones -----Original Message----- From: krnet-bounces@mylist.net [mailto:krnet-bounces@mylist.net]On Behalf Of Barry Kruyssen Oh, yea, I remember fitting that carby heat knob when I fitted the new engine (we don't have them in gliders), pull the carby heat on, start my turn back to line up and as I'm nearly lined up the engine smoothed out and started to pull like a train, ------------------------------ Message: 8 Date: Fri, 14 Jan 2005 08:13:53 -0800 From: larry severson Subject: Re: R?f. : RE: KR> firewall materials To: KRnet Message-ID: <5.2.1.1.0.20050114081059.0212f960@pop-server.socal.rr.com> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"; format=flowed At 09:57 AM 1/14/2005 +0100, you wrote: >Now, guys, you do what you want, but personally, I won't want to have >anything to do with asbestos. I would rather die from an engine fire >than from a nasty, lengthy lung cancer! > >This being said, I don't have to die from an engine fire, since there >are replacement materials, ceramics based, that do the job better, are >lighter. But not cheaper, though. 2 coats of Contego "fire proof" paint will do the job without the replacement material, but I used both. www.contegointernational.com/ Larry Severson Fountain Valley, CA 92708 (714) 968-9852 larry2@socal.rr.com ------------------------------ Message: 9 Date: Fri, 14 Jan 2005 12:00:09 EST From: RENOSADLER@aol.com Subject: KR> KR1 To: krnet@mylist.net Message-ID: Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII" Could anyone give the recamended size of the piano ailron piano hing? ACS thr largest they carry is 2" thats only an 1" on the wing and 1" on thw aliron shouldn't about two " on each side ? Thanks for any help Bill ------------------------------ Message: 10 Date: Fri, 14 Jan 2005 20:09:18 +0200 From: "Dene Collett \(SA\)" Subject: Re: KR> tri-carriage To: "KRnet" Message-ID: <008a01c4fa64$459235a0$37e5fea9@telkomsa127179> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Hi Andy I am from SA as well and know that plane, it was built by a guy by the name of Robby Allen right here in Port Elizabeth. Because the wing is one piece, he couldn't get it out of his workshop down a fairly long flight of stairs so he cut it as described. After that the wing/ fuz section went down wing tip first with the rear of the fuz after. It also had a type IV motor mounted "backwards".It was after meeting him that I decided to build one as well.I actually work with a relative of his. Changing it to a tri gear would be quite simple. You will have to make two holes in the wings directly behind the existing mountings and then swap the left side with the right and changing them from in front of the spar to behind at the same time (assuming that Robbie drilled the holes symetrically). As for the nose wheel, the standard Diel gear should be an easy job. There are a few other concerns that you should be aware of, contact me privately for more. Regards Dene Collett KR2S-RT builder Port Elizabeth South Africa mailto: dene.collett@telkomsa.net P.S: checkout www.whisperaircraft.com ----- Original Message ----- From: "Andy Hatting" To: Sent: Thursday, January 13, 2005 8:24 AM Subject: KR> tri-carriage > I am from South Africa and have just bought a partly assembled KR2. We > are not comfortable with a taildragger and would like to fit a tri- > wheel under carriage. Where can one find such and perhaps plans to fit > them? The previous owner had to cut the plane behind the cockpit to > get it out of his garage, and I wonder if someone has some views on > the best way to join the two parts. The frame is of wood. > Andy Hatting > > _______________________________________ > Search the KRnet Archives at http://www.maddyhome.com/krsrch/index.jsp > to UNsubscribe from KRnet, send a message to KRnet-leave@mylist.net > please see other KRnet info at http://www.krnet.org/info.html > ------------------------------ Message: 11 Date: Fri, 14 Jan 2005 10:28:19 -0800 From: "Parley Byington" Subject: KR> Aileron hinge size To: Message-ID: <009c01c4fa66$d49bb940$b6afe304@Parley> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Date: Friday, Jan.14,2005 Subject: Aileron hinge width Bill I just went out and measured my hinge, supplied by Rand Robinson, and it is .75 inches on each side, flat surface attachment. The overall width of the hinge laid flat is about 2 inches. This is the piano hinge that RR sold for use on the ailerons for my KR-2. I hope this answers your question. Thanks Parley Byington N54PB Henderson NV parley@anv.net ----- Original Message ----- From: To: Sent: Friday, January 14, 2005 9:00 AM Subject: KR> KR1 > Could anyone give the recamended size of the piano ailron > piano hing? > ACS thr largest they carry is 2" thats only an 1" on > the wing > and 1" on thw > aliron shouldn't about two " on each side ? > > Thanks for > any help > > Bill _______________________________________ > Search the KRnet Archives at http://www.maddyhome.com/krsrch/index.jsp > to UNsubscribe from KRnet, send a message to KRnet-leave@mylist.net > please see other KRnet info at http://www.krnet.org/info.html ------------------------------ Message: 12 Date: Fri, 14 Jan 2005 13:42:24 -0500 From: "Allen Wiesner " Subject: Re: KR> KR1 To: "KRnet" Message-ID: <000e01c4fa68$caff7aa0$720bda42@CPQ69645694259> Content-Type: text/plain; format=flowed; charset="iso-8859-1"; reply-type=original >Could anyone give the recamended size of the piano ailron >piano hing? ACS thr largest they carry is 2" thats only an 1" >on the wing and 1" on thw aliron shouldn't about two " on >each side ? Per the RR parts listing (in an old Wicks catalog) the P/N is MS20001-P5. Allen G. Wiesner KR-2SS/TD S/N 1118 65 Franklin Street Ansonia, CT 06401-1240 (203) 732-0508 flashyal@usadatanet.net ------------------------------ Message: 13 Date: Sat, 15 Jan 2005 11:25:08 +1000 From: "Barry Kruyssen" Subject: Re: KR> Loss of Power To: "KRnet" Message-ID: <03cc01c4faa1$0ef3e4c0$d000a8c0@technologyonecorp.com> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" The carby is a BING constant depression type 94/40. The Jabiru comes from the factory fully setup, carby and exhaust installed, tuned, ground run and ready to fly. Another 1.1 hours this morning and my first little cross country, only 112 miles out and back. regards Barry Kruyssen Cairns, Australia RAA 19-3873 kr2@BigPond.com http://www.users.bigpond.com/kr2/kr2.htm ----- Original Message ----- From: Mark Jones Barry, I was wondering what carb you are running on your Jab.? Mark Jones ------------------------------ Message: 14 Date: Fri, 14 Jan 2005 17:32:58 -0800 From: Jim Morehead Subject: KR> Canopy questions. To: KRnet Message-ID: Content-Type: text/plain; charset="ISO-8859-1" Netters, I¹m ready to glass in my canopy to the canopy frame. The plan book says to peel back the protective cover from the edge approximately 1.5 inches. Then place a band of ³masking² tape or ³electrical² tape 1 inch from the edge. Which tape do you recommend? Then is says to run two 2 inch BID tapes around the canopy inside and out. How do you keep the tape from having a shaggy edge with out sanding into the plastic canopy? Any thoughts on running a strip of double sided scotch tape around the canopy frame to hold the canopy in place while applying the 2 inch BID tape? I¹m sure those that have been through this step will have some very helpful ideas. Also looking for a ³night latch² type safety catch that will keep the canopy from blowing clear open if it ever gets loose. Hope everyone has a great upcoming three day weekend. Thank you, Jim Morehead Cameron Park, CA Canopy frame installed with latch. Collecting flight instruments for the panel. ------------------------------ Message: 15 Date: Fri, 14 Jan 2005 18:47:57 -0700 From: jscott.pilot@juno.com Subject: Re: KR> Canopy questions. To: krnet@mylist.net Message-ID: <20050114.184758.1348.0.jscott.pilot@juno.com> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=iso-8859-1 Jim, Masking tape will leave a nasty residue if it is on there any length of time. Electrical tape won't. I masked mine off with electrical tape. -Jeff On Fri, 14 Jan 2005 17:32:58 -0800 Jim Morehead writes: > Netters, > I¹m ready to glass in my canopy to the canopy frame. The plan > book says > to peel back the protective cover from the edge approximately 1.5 > inches. > Then place a band of ³masking² tape or ³electrical² tape 1 inch from > the > edge. Which tape do you recommend? Then is says to run two 2 inch > BID > tapes around the canopy inside and out. How do you keep the tape > from > having a shaggy edge with out sanding into the plastic canopy? > Any thoughts on running a strip of double sided scotch tape > around the > canopy frame to hold the canopy in place while applying the 2 inch > BID tape? > I¹m sure those that have been through this step will have some very > helpful > ideas. > Also looking for a ³night latch² type safety catch that will > keep the > canopy from blowing clear open if it ever gets loose. > Hope everyone has a great upcoming three day weekend. > > Thank you, > > Jim Morehead > Cameron Park, CA > Canopy frame installed with latch. > Collecting flight instruments for the panel. > > > _______________________________________ > Search the KRnet Archives at > http://www.maddyhome.com/krsrch/index.jsp > to UNsubscribe from KRnet, send a message to KRnet-leave@mylist.net > please see other KRnet info at http://www.krnet.org/info.html > > ------------------------------ Message: 16 Date: Fri, 14 Jan 2005 22:12:38 -0500 (Eastern Standard Time) From: "Dan Heath" Subject: Re: KR> Canopy questions. To: "krnet@mylist.net" Message-ID: <41E88A26.000001.00504@DANHOMECOMPUTER> Content-Type: Text/Plain; charset="iso-8859-1" RE: How do you keep the tape from having a shaggy edge with out sanding into the plastic canopy? The other caller was absolutely correct. Do not use masking tape. Electrical or vinyl painting tape is what you need to use. The way to get around the problem you ask about is to do it in two steps. First give yourself only as much canopy edge as you need to secure it and then put on your fiberglass tapes as neatly as possible, using the plastic backing method. Then after that cures, take off the vinyl tapes and re-tape it about 1/8 of an inch deeper into the canopy. Now you sand untill smooth at the edge of the fiberglass and apply your filler. After I have put on the filler and sanded, I like to do the last process again, with no filler, to get as fine a fairing to the canopy as possible. Now you are ready to paint right up to that tape. The last sanding should be with the grit that you would use just before painting. See masking tip at: http://kr-builder.org/Tips/index.html See N64KR at http://KR-Builder.org - Then click on the pics There is a time for building and a time for FLYING and the time for building has expired. Daniel R. Heath - Columbia, SC See you in Mt. Vernon - 2005 - KR Gathering ------------------------------ _______________________________________________ See KRnet list details at http://www.krnet.org/instructions.html End of KRnet Digest, Vol 347, Issue 20 ************************************** ================================== ABC Amber Outlook Converter v4.20 Trial version ==================================