From: krnet-bounces+johnbou=speakeasy.net@mylist.net To: John Bouyea Subject: KRnet Digest, Vol 347, Issue 24 Date: 1/17/2005 7:58:13 AM Send KRnet mailing list submissions to krnet@mylist.net To subscribe or unsubscribe via the World Wide Web, visit http://mylist.net/listinfo/krnet or, via email, send a message with subject or body 'help' to krnet-request@mylist.net You can reach the person managing the list at krnet-owner@mylist.net When replying, please edit your Subject line so it is more specific than "Re: Contents of KRnet digest..." Today's Topics: 1. Homebuilt inspection history (was bad news from the DAR) (jscott.pilot@juno.com) 2. Re: bad news from the DAR (Dan Heath) 3. DAR (Colin & Bev Rainey) 4. Re: DAR (Dan Heath) 5. Re: DAR (Dan Heath) 6. Re: Oil-- 3 ultimate sources (Steelef@aol.com) 7. Re: DAR (Kenneth B. Jones) 8. Winter (Robert L. Stone) 9. A&P libility (Orma) 10. DAR (Randy Smith ) 11. Oils (Colin & Bev Rainey) 12. Posa carb (patrusso) 13. Re: Oil-- 3 ultimate sources (Brant Hollensbe) 14. Re: Winter (Orma) 15. Re: Posa carb (Orma) 16. Re: DAR (larry flesner) 17. Re: Posa carb (danrh@alltel.net) 18. Re: Posa carb (Ed Janssen) 19. Re: Oil-- 3 ultimate sources (JAMES FERRIS) 20. Re: Winter (thepittses@juno.com) 21. engine preheat - long (larry flesner) 22. Re: bad news from the DAR (larry flesner) ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Message: 1 Date: Sun, 16 Jan 2005 23:02:34 -0700 From: jscott.pilot@juno.com Subject: KR> Homebuilt inspection history (was bad news from the DAR) To: krnet@mylist.net Message-ID: <20050116.230234.1556.0.jscott.pilot@juno.com> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Just as a minor nit to pick (and not necesarily related to Lee's problem); The rules changed to what we have now in 1980. Prior to that, someone at FSDO or GADO had to sign off the annual condition inspection on a homebuilt, either in the field, or you flew it to them. The inspections were minimal, poor quality, and hard to get scheduled, so the FAA (with the EAA pushing them along) changed the rules to allow the original builder or an A&P sign off the annual condition inspection. In 1979, my Starduster had to go visit the local GADO office to have the annual inspection signed off. In 1980, I was able to have an A&P sign it off. In 1980 the FAA started issuing repairman's certificates to the original builders of all the existing homebuilts for those builders that offered proof that they had built 51% of their plane. That rule has been in effect for 26 years now. Prior to that, the local GADO office would have inspection clinics where you could fly your plane in and tell them what you had done for maintenance. They would take a cursory look at the plane, make some recommendations, then sign the logbooks. It was an interesting time in homebuilt aviation. -Jeff On Sun, 16 Jan 2005 20:09:41 -0500 Donald Reid writes: > It is a correct statement that one experimental can have one person with a > repairman's certificate. That does not mean that you can't do your > own > work on an experimental that you bought from someone else. You can still > do your own work but you will need to have either an A&P or the holder of > the repairman's certificate do the annual and that is all. > > This is the way that it has been since the experimental regs can > into being > in the 50s. > > > > > Don Reid - donreid "at" peoplepc.com > Bumpass, Va ------------------------------ Message: 2 Date: Mon, 17 Jan 2005 05:52:48 -0500 (Eastern Standard Time) From: "Dan Heath" Subject: Re: KR> bad news from the DAR To: "krnet@mylist.net" Message-ID: <41EB9900.000005.03096@DANHOMECOMPUTER> Content-Type: Text/Plain; charset="iso-8859-1" RE: If your Dad has already registered the aircraft,then he has already proved to the FAA that he done at least 51% of the work I believe that there may be some confusion about Registration and Certification as it applies to this issue. I do believe that the regs talk about this issue in terms of Certification not registration. If this plane has never been certified, I don't think you have an issue. The work must be 51% amateur built and includes all amateurs who have worked on the plane. I suggest that you read the regs for yourself before making a decision one way or the other. Also call you local FSDO. See N64KR at http://KR-Builder.org - Then click on the pics There is a time for building and a time for FLYING and the time for building has expired. Daniel R. Heath - Columbia, SC See you in Mt. Vernon - 2005 - KR Gathering ------------------------------ Message: 3 Date: Mon, 17 Jan 2005 06:10:48 -0500 From: "Colin & Bev Rainey" Subject: KR> DAR To: Message-ID: <005401c4fc85$32efe910$9c402141@RaineyDay> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" However His DAR and mine are saying consistently the same thing and that is that THE APPLICANT for the repairman's certification must have constructed at least 51% of the aircraft in order to qualify for the repairman's certification and allow him to sign off his own annual condition inspection. Only limitation is the sign off. All repairs and maintenance may still be performed by the owner, just not the signoff. Colin & Beverly Rainey Apex Lending, Inc. www.eloan2004cr.com crainey@apexlending.com 407-323-6960 ------------------------------ Message: 4 Date: Mon, 17 Jan 2005 06:44:05 -0500 (Eastern Standard Time) From: "Dan Heath" Subject: Re: KR> DAR To: "krnet@mylist.net" Message-ID: <41EBA505.000007.03096@DANHOMECOMPUTER> Content-Type: Text/Plain; charset="iso-8859-1" RE: THE APPLICANT for the repairman's certification must have constructed at least 51% of the aircraft in order to qualify for the repairman's certification OK then, let's say that a kit just meets the 51% rule for Experimental and you have two people building it. Does this mean that if one of the builders does any work on it at all, that will disallow either of the builders of getting the Repairman's Certificate? Where is the reg that specifies this? I think the 51% rule applies strictly to whether or not it can be certified in the Experimental Category. Jerry and I have built 100% of this plane, what if both of us built 50%? I am not sure that we should believe everything these DAR are telling us. See N64KR at http://KR-Builder.org - Then click on the pics There is a time for building and a time for FLYING and the time for building has expired. Daniel R. Heath - Columbia, SC See you in Mt. Vernon - 2005 - KR Gathering -------Original Message------- From: KRnet Date: 01/17/05 06:11:09 To: krnet@mylist.net Subject: KR> DAR However His DAR and mine are saying consistently the same thing and that is that THE APPLICANT for the repairman's certification must have constructed at least 51% of the aircraft in order to qualify for the repairman's certification and allow him to sign off his own annual condition inspection. Only limitation is the sign off. All repairs and maintenance may still be performed by the owner, just not the signoff. Colin & Beverly Rainey Apex Lending, Inc. www.eloan2004cr.com crainey@apexlending.com 407-323-6960 _______________________________________ Search the KRnet Archives at http://www.maddyhome.com/krsrch/index.jsp to UNsubscribe from KRnet, send a message to KRnet-leave@mylist.net please see other KRnet info at http://www.krnet.org/info.html . ------------------------------ Message: 5 Date: Mon, 17 Jan 2005 06:44:05 -0500 (Eastern Standard Time) From: "Dan Heath" Subject: Re: KR> DAR To: "krnet@mylist.net" Message-ID: <41EBA505.000007.03096@DANHOMECOMPUTER> Content-Type: Text/Plain; charset="iso-8859-1" RE: THE APPLICANT for the repairman's certification must have constructed at least 51% of the aircraft in order to qualify for the repairman's certification OK then, let's say that a kit just meets the 51% rule for Experimental and you have two people building it. Does this mean that if one of the builders does any work on it at all, that will disallow either of the builders of getting the Repairman's Certificate? Where is the reg that specifies this? I think the 51% rule applies strictly to whether or not it can be certified in the Experimental Category. Jerry and I have built 100% of this plane, what if both of us built 50%? I am not sure that we should believe everything these DAR are telling us. See N64KR at http://KR-Builder.org - Then click on the pics There is a time for building and a time for FLYING and the time for building has expired. Daniel R. Heath - Columbia, SC See you in Mt. Vernon - 2005 - KR Gathering -------Original Message------- From: KRnet Date: 01/17/05 06:11:09 To: krnet@mylist.net Subject: KR> DAR However His DAR and mine are saying consistently the same thing and that is that THE APPLICANT for the repairman's certification must have constructed at least 51% of the aircraft in order to qualify for the repairman's certification and allow him to sign off his own annual condition inspection. Only limitation is the sign off. All repairs and maintenance may still be performed by the owner, just not the signoff. Colin & Beverly Rainey Apex Lending, Inc. www.eloan2004cr.com crainey@apexlending.com 407-323-6960 _______________________________________ Search the KRnet Archives at http://www.maddyhome.com/krsrch/index.jsp to UNsubscribe from KRnet, send a message to KRnet-leave@mylist.net please see other KRnet info at http://www.krnet.org/info.html . ------------------------------ Message: 6 Date: Mon, 17 Jan 2005 07:20:48 EST From: Steelef@aol.com Subject: Re: KR> Oil-- 3 ultimate sources To: krnet@mylist.net Message-ID: <110.4145dcfb.2f1d07a0@aol.com> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII" Crainey said- BP, Amoco & Standard according to his memory were the basic sources for all motor oils! My question is, which one is the source of paraffin base oils. I have personally had exellent auto engine life with paraffin base oils having exceeded well over 200,000 thousand miles on more than 5 different vehicles with this type oil. My father's truck fleet with paraffin base went farther before overhauls & were immensely cleaner internally than my uncle's trucks did with asphalt base oil. However, Uncle blamed his drivers. Some of my close racing buddies have not had good luck with the asphalt base oils, in fact, they have blown several engines over the years. My 2 bits (25 cents) -F Steel ------------------------------ Message: 7 Date: Mon, 17 Jan 2005 08:31:20 -0500 From: "Kenneth B. Jones" Subject: Re: KR> DAR To: "KRnet" Message-ID: <02b901c4fc98$d59951c0$8d7ba8c0@oemcomputer> http://www.airweb.faa.gov/Regulatory_and_Guidance_Library/rgAdvisoryCircular.nsf/0/0ca2845e2aafffbb86256dbf00640cb2/$FILE/AC20-27F.pdf Above link is for Advisory Circular 65-23A. This explains registration and certification of your plane as well as becoming the repairman for that plane. 1. Here's the definition of "major portion" (I think "major portion" is equal to or greater than 51%.) from AC 65-23A: [From AC65-23A Appendix 1 Major Portion. When the aircraft is completed, the majority of the fabrication and assembly tasks have been performed by the amateur builder. When you purchase a partially completed kit or aircraft, the major portion includes the construction efforts of the previous amateur builders.] FAR 21.191.(g) is also clear in my view. [(g) Operating amateur-built aircraft. Operating an aircraft the "major portion" of which has been fabricated and assembled by "persons" who undertook the construction project solely for their own education or recreation.] Therefore, all the builders' efforts summed must meet at least 51% in order to certicate the plane as amateur built. 2. You must be the "primary builder" to be certified as the repairman. (See paragraph 16 of AC 65-23A.) I didn't find any requirement that the applicant for the repairman certificate build 51%, aka majority, of the plane in this AC or in the FARs. One does, however, have to make application for the repairman's certificate at time of original certification of the aircraft. My advise is to read the FARs and the Advisory Circulars so you have some background information before you ask the FAA or Designee. Ken Jones, kenbjones@cinci.rr.com Sharonville, OH N5834, aka The Porkopolis Flying Pig ----- Original Message ----- From: "Colin & Bev Rainey" To: Sent: Monday, January 17, 2005 6:10 AM Subject: KR> DAR > However > His DAR and mine are saying consistently the same thing and that is > that > THE APPLICANT for the repairman's certification must have constructed at > least 51% of the aircraft in order to qualify for the repairman's > certification and allow him to sign off his own annual condition > inspection. Only limitation is the sign off. All repairs and maintenance > may still be performed by the owner, just not the signoff. > > Colin & Beverly Rainey > Apex Lending, Inc. > www.eloan2004cr.com > crainey@apexlending.com > 407-323-6960 > _______________________________________ > Search the KRnet Archives at http://www.maddyhome.com/krsrch/index.jsp > to UNsubscribe from KRnet, send a message to KRnet-leave@mylist.net > please see other KRnet info at http://www.krnet.org/info.html > ------------------------------ Message: 8 Date: Mon, 17 Jan 2005 07:45:16 -0600 From: "Robert L. Stone" Subject: KR> Winter To: "KR Builders Pilots" Message-ID: <003701c4fc9a$c7283280$a624c944@yourat5qgaac3z> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Netters, First I want to thank all who responded to my question about obtaining aircraft oil. The best advice I received was to find out where the local FBO gets his and try to make a arangement with that dealer them to buy it by the case or two. Some of you who responded assumed that I was going to use 50 weight oil in an auto engine and this is not the case. I have a 110 horse Lycoming that I am going to use it in. 50 weight is what the manufacture calls for but it creates a problem of hard starting during the winter months. My question is, does anyone know of a method of pre-heating the engine prior to start. I have heard of a heated oil dip stick for cars that are very popular in the northern states where the temps are below zero in the winter, I am wondering if such a device is available for aircraft????? Bob Stone, Harker Heights, Tx rstone4@hot.rr.com ------------------------------ Message: 9 Date: Mon, 17 Jan 2005 08:45:40 -0500 From: "Orma" Subject: KR> A&P libility To: "KRnet" Message-ID: <000201c4fc9a$d61881f0$0202a8c0@ROBBINS1> Content-Type: text/plain; format=flowed; charset="iso-8859-1"; reply-type=original "Your other big problem is that there is a lot of A&P that do not want the liability." Hello Net As an AP/IA, a builder and flying member of the KR family since 1984, I'll make a comment/reaction about A&P's. As there are other members that hold the same license, I don't claim to speak for them. Over the years I have looked at a lot of KR's. Most of the time it has simply been free advise. As a professional I must ultimately accept that there are liability issues each time I get involved with any aircraft, be it experimental or Piper. Some A&P's with jobs, have clauses in their hire contracts that prevent them from touching aircraft outside the work environment, again the boss does not want the liability issue. Although an owner will promise that he would never sue, his anguished relatives may not feel the same, and will name everyone if they decide to seek compensation for a real or perceived error. So some are reluctant to put their name to paper. Not all of us have a fear of working with experimentals. My closest associates in aviation are the builders and owners of experimentals of all types. For years I have performed several Condition Inspections per year. I only have two problems that impact on what I am willing to do. First of all because owners want to minimize the cost of working with a professional and insist on doing all the work that they can, I insist that they do the work using acceptable practices and techniques as per the FAA guidelines. This some times presents a problem because some individuals want to put in everything including the kitchen sink (or at least parts from it). If I have to inspect or work on that area or part as part of what I am asked to do, I them pick up liability for the workmanship, by virtue of the fact that I was the last one there, and that as a professional I should have seen or known that something was not correct. The second thing that I have a problem with is that Aircraft Maintenance shop rates are now averaging over $60 per hour. And as an example I was asked by a local builder to look at and evaluate some rivets that were poorly installed. I told the owner that they should bucked more or removed. He asked me to help, which I did and would have done for free. At the end of it all, probably an hour and a half later, he offered me a twenty for my help. He felt that my time was worth something. I would pay the neighbors kid twenty to rake the yard. My problem is this, as a professional, I need and expect to get paid on a professional scale. As one of my mechanic associates put it, Liability insurance is over $8000.00 per year for an independent mechanic, and maintaining tools and equipment is not cheap either. In closing I will say this, I have always worked out a fair price with owners, and they were happy. If you take a Piper to the shop for an annual, you can expect to pay $600. just for the inspection and on top of that parts and labor for repairs. If because you don't have the repairman's cert you need an annual Condition Inspection, find a mechanic, get to know him, seek his advise often so that he gets to know you and your aircraft and you will find that he will be willing to work you and not have any fear of signing for your annual. Orma L. Robbiins AP/IA (dba Aviation Mechanics LLC) Southfield, MI N110LR celebrating 20 years Flying, flying and more flying http://www.kr-2.aviation-mechanics.com/ ------------------------------ Message: 10 Date: Mon, 17 Jan 2005 07:47:23 -0600 From: "Randy Smith " Subject: KR> DAR To: Message-ID: <000a01c4fc9b$12f4f3b0$bfc8b944@home> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" So why is he a DAR?????????????....Bob FOR THE MONEY around here it is between $350 and $500 for a sign off. When you see what he has to do it comes out to about $100 an hour. Not bad money ------------------------------ Message: 11 Date: Mon, 17 Jan 2005 08:48:25 -0500 From: "Colin & Bev Rainey" Subject: KR> Oils To: Message-ID: <000e01c4fc9b$37de9140$9c402141@RaineyDay> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Again it was just my personal opinion Castrol and Quaker State are 2 that I know are paraffin based oils. There was a time when you could tell a Quaker State motor by seeing the chunks of old oil clogged in the valve covers, but that was years ago and might have only been shade tree mechanic talk. What I do know as FACT: no matter what oil you run, the frequency of service, oil change AND filter determines the engine life, not the brand. Too many factors go into why an engine blows, and the next guy's doesn't. What grade oil, thickness, how old, was the filter new, how much wear on the engine compared to the engine still running, what RPMs was it seeing, was it balanced, running high octane or low octane fuel, how much spark advance, type of plugs, etc... Engines blow for a number of reasons, but MOST commonly due to abuse, and/or neglect. Reason for this thread for KR builders owners? You have an auto engine run quality auto engine oil of your choice, appropriate for the temp and usage, and change frequently, suggested at least every 50 hours, or every 6 months whichever comes first, and if equipped the filter every time also. Aviation engine guys, with O-200s, O-085, or O-235s etc... follow manufacturer's recommended service, NOT the maximum allowed by the regs in Part 43, for maximum life and reliability. Adjust ALL oil viscosity grades per the engine manufacturer's recommendations for outside temp and usage. FLY SAFE! Colin & Beverly Rainey Apex Lending, Inc. www.eloan2004cr.com crainey@apexlending.com 407-323-6960 ------------------------------ Message: 12 Date: Mon, 17 Jan 2005 08:51:05 -0500 From: "patrusso" Subject: KR> Posa carb To: "KRnet" Message-ID: <002e01c4fc9b$97180240$39a772d8@patrusso> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Orma and all you netters with experience re; Posa carb. Just bought a box of goodies with the purchase of another engine, (used).... misc. parts etc. and the posa came with it. Questions: Is it worthwhile using it? Would it be more or less reliable than my Zenith? Fuel pump and carb heat recommended with it?? I have already read many things good and bad about the Posa but not sure wether the info was from EXPERIENCED USERS.... This carb has the number 29 stamped on it,...which means???? ------------------------------ Message: 13 Date: Mon, 17 Jan 2005 07:57:22 -0600 From: "Brant Hollensbe" Subject: Re: KR> Oil-- 3 ultimate sources To: "KRnet" Message-ID: <001301c4fc9c$78177f00$0702a8c0@bruntson> Content-Type: text/plain; format=flowed; charset="iso-8859-1"; reply-type=original BP (British Peto) has bought out Amoco so that company no longer exists. Only the Amoco brand name remains that BP puts on motor oil cans and gas pumps. Crude oil has a base of either asphalt or paraffin. Motor oil is refined from one of these crude bases or it is a synthetic oil.... made from plastic polymers. The automotive engine oil we buy is one of these three types or it can be a blend of them. Penns Oil is the most common of the paraffin based motor oils. Gas station brand oils are ussually made from asphalt crude oil. Paraffin oil was easier and less complex to refine into engine oil in the 1930's -50's. But with the improved chemical technology of the late 1960's, asphalt based motor oil was vastly improved. The main thing is: Do Not Mix paraffin and asphalt based together. If you do, you run the risk of sludge and incopatability issues arising. If I put brand X into my engine, I keep using that brand to refill until I drain the oil and change the filter. Brant Hollensbe bhollensbe@mchsi.com DSM Iowa ------------------------------ Message: 14 Date: Mon, 17 Jan 2005 09:04:05 -0500 From: "Orma" Subject: Re: KR> Winter To: "KRnet" Message-ID: <001d01c4fc9d$6901b0c0$0202a8c0@ROBBINS1> Content-Type: text/plain; format=flowed; charset="iso-8859-1"; reply-type=original I am wondering if such a device is available for aircraft????? Hello Bob. The short answer is yes. There are certified engine case heaters one brand is called Easy Heat. They are silicone to the bottom of the case with an electrical plug routed to the top of the engine near the opening of panel. There are other brands as well. Some have even used the auto dipstick heater. Most cold weather areas change the oil in the engine in the winter to W80 or W65, it depends on the level of the temp. Orma Southfield, MI N110LR celebrating 20 years Flying, flying and more flying http://www.kr-2.aviation-mechanics.com/ ------------------------------ Message: 15 Date: Mon, 17 Jan 2005 09:09:50 -0500 From: "Orma" Subject: Re: KR> Posa carb To: "KRnet" Message-ID: <002801c4fc9e$36724fb0$0202a8c0@ROBBINS1> Content-Type: text/plain; format=flowed; charset="iso-8859-1"; reply-type=original Hello Pat I ran the posa and it performed well at top end and was difficult to dial in a happy medium for the rest of the range. I had a Zenith and sold it before flying with it. Others like it. With the posa, no fuel pump is needed. Carb heat is always a good recommendation. As for the 29, I don't have a clue. See my alert Posa page on my web site. Orma Southfield, MI N110LR celebrating 20 years Flying, flying and more flying http://www.kr-2.aviation-mechanics.com/ ------------------------------ Message: 16 Date: Mon, 17 Jan 2005 08:15:53 -0600 From: larry flesner Subject: Re: KR> DAR To: KRnet Message-ID: <3.0.6.32.20050117081553.0080a100@pop.midwest.net> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii" > >OK then, let's say that a kit just meets the 51% rule for Experimental >and you have two people building it. Does this mean that if one of the >builders does any work on it at all, that will disallow either of the >builders of getting the Repairman's Certificate? . Daniel R. Heath - +++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++ Dan, >From what I've read in the past, either you OR Jerry can be issued the "repairman certificate" (or whatever it's called) but not both of you. Bummer, I know, but only one certificate per aircraft. If you have a group of ten builders building and aircraft, such as in a club, only one builder can be issued the "Mechanics license" for that airplane, not all ten people. You and Jerry will have to flip a coin or something. Larry Flesner ------------------------------ Message: 17 Date: Mon, 17 Jan 2005 8:24:07 -0600 From: Subject: Re: KR> Posa carb To: KRnet Message-ID: <20050117142407.RLVT8506.ispmxmta05-srv.alltel.net@[166.102.165.30]> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1 It is probably a 29MM throat which will work with the 1835 but may be a bit small for the 2180 and above. Carb heat is a given for all installations. Can't use a fuel pump with a POSA. I Had one on my first KR and sold it for $25 just to get rid of it. There are a few examples of people actually figuring out how to file the needle and to find which needle to file and are at least semi satisfied with it. After I junked the Posa, I used a Zenith with much better results, but eventually got rid of that for an Ellison and never looked back. Dan Heath From: "patrusso" Date: 2005/01/17 Mon AM 07:51:05 CST To: "KRnet" Subject: KR> Posa carb Orma and all you netters with experience re; Posa carb. Just bought a box of goodies with the purchase of another engine, (used).... misc. parts etc. and the posa came with it. Questions: Is it worthwhile using it? Would it be more or less reliable than my Zenith? Fuel pump and carb heat recommended with it?? I have already read many things good and bad about the Posa but not sure wether the info was from EXPERIENCED USERS.... This carb has the number 29 stamped on it,...which means???? _______________________________________ Search the KRnet Archives at http://www.maddyhome.com/krsrch/index.jsp to UNsubscribe from KRnet, send a message to KRnet-leave@mylist.net please see other KRnet info at http://www.krnet.org/info.html ------------------------------ Message: 18 Date: Mon, 17 Jan 2005 08:29:30 -0600 From: ejanssen@chipsnet.com (Ed Janssen) Subject: Re: KR> Posa carb To: "KRnet" Message-ID: <00b801c4fca0$f4dc6d30$7a00a8c0@dad> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" "29" probably means "29mm" - size of the carb. You can check Jim Faughn's website for comments on the Posa and how to tune it. I believe he's still running his VW with the Posa. Ed Ed Janssen mailto:ejanssen@chipsnet.com ----- Original Message ----- From: "patrusso" To: "KRnet" Sent: Monday, January 17, 2005 7:51 AM Subject: KR> Posa carb > Orma and all you netters with experience re; Posa carb. Just bought a > box of goodies with the purchase of another engine, (used).... misc. parts etc. and the posa came with it. Questions: Is it worthwhile using it? Would it be more or less reliable than my Zenith? Fuel pump and carb heat recommended with it?? I have already read many things good and bad about the Posa but not sure wether the info was from EXPERIENCED USERS.... This carb has the number 29 stamped on it,...which means???? > _______________________________________ > Search the KRnet Archives at http://www.maddyhome.com/krsrch/index.jsp > to UNsubscribe from KRnet, send a message to KRnet-leave@mylist.net > please see other KRnet info at http://www.krnet.org/info.html > ------------------------------ Message: 19 Date: Mon, 17 Jan 2005 09:33:00 -0500 From: JAMES FERRIS Subject: Re: KR> Oil-- 3 ultimate sources To: krnet@mylist.net Message-ID: <20050117.093303.2180.0.mijnil@juno.com> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii What is asphalt based oil? I have used amsoil in two vehicles an blew the engines in both of them. jim ------------------------------ Message: 20 Date: Mon, 17 Jan 2005 15:49:02 GMT From: "thepittses@juno.com" Subject: Re: KR> Winter To: krnet@mylist.net Message-ID: <20050117.074958.28229.184603@webmail11.lax.untd.com> Content-Type: text/plain There is an item called a oil pan blanket, that fit onto the oil pan for auto engines. You could try to retro fit it to the engine you have. It then just plugs into any 110 outlet. Be sure to stay with it while plugged in. JMHO Eric Pitts Indiana KR2S ___________________________________________________________________ Speed up your surfing with Juno SpeedBand. Now includes pop-up blocker! Only $14.95/month -visit http://www.juno.com/surf to sign up today! ------------------------------ Message: 21 Date: Mon, 17 Jan 2005 09:54:02 -0600 From: larry flesner Subject: KR> engine preheat - long To: KRnet Message-ID: <3.0.6.32.20050117095402.0080c9a0@pop.midwest.net> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii" . My question is, does anyone know of a method of pre-heating the engine prior to start. I have heard of a heated oil dip stick for cars that are very popular in the northern states where the temps are below zero in the winter, I am wondering if such a device is available for aircraft????? >Bob Stone, ++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++ The problem with heated dip sticks or the oil pan heat pad, as I see it, is the heat is too concentrated to warm the entire engine as you want and the heated pad can actually "cook" the oil if the pad is hot enough. A much better solution is to warm the entire engine, not just the oil. I've built several engine heaters that are really inexpensive, easy to use, and safe. A friend of mine photographed me building one for his C-170 and it was written up in the C-170 Club newsletter. The advantages are: Safe - heat source well away from the engine. Easy to use - just slide it under the airplane and back out when you are finished. It is self-standing and requires no hook-ups. CHEAP - materials will cost you about $5 plus the cost of a good quality 1500W ceramic heater, the kind that is about 8" X 8" or so. Easy to build - you can build it in an hour or less. It is easy enough to build that you should be able to assemble it from the following discription. Go to your local building supplier and get one sheet ( 4' X 8' ) of the foam insulation board with the foil cover on both sides. The 1/2" or 5/8" thick is sufficent. You will need approx 6' of the 8' length so try to buy a damaged piece if they have one for about half price. Even an undamaged piece should sell for approx $5. If you don't already have one, pick up a good quality ceramic heater with a fan, the small square kind that are usually rated for 1500 watts. They should sell for about $25. Mine has hi/low heat settings and tip-over shutoff switch. Measure the distance from the hangar floor to the bottom side of the opening at the rear of your cowl and the outside dimention of the heater. A slight modification on the top end of the heater tube may be in order, depending on the cowl opening.You are now ready to start construction. Basiclly, what you are going to do is construct a square heating tube, the outside dimention of your heater, in the form of an L. The heater should just slip in one end and the other sets under the cowl opening. You construct it from flat panels cut from the foam board and tape it together with "duct tape" or the foil tape used for duct work. Either one will work. The horizontal run of the duct should be approx 24" long to keep the heat source well away from the engine. The vertical run is the distance measured earlier. Draw the two side pieces of the L and then the other panels needed to finished the duct on the board and cut with a sharpe knife. Instead of a full 90 degee corner in the duct, I made mine with a couple of 45 degree bends to better help the airflow. Just draw the side pieces the way you want the shape to be. When finished, the heater should just slip inside the duct. As for modifing the top end, the C-170 had a gascolator centered in the opening of the bottom of the cowl so I built a small deflector in the top to keep the hot air from hitting the gascolator directly. Modify for your needs depending on the cowl opening size or shape. To use, just slide the duct under the airplane beneath the cowl opening and plug in the heater. I usually place a blanket over the cowl and cover the air inlet holes in the front to contain the heat. There is VERY LITTLE heat loss in the duct so you get the full benifit of the 1500W's in the engine compartment. On one occassion when the temp in the hangar was 30*F, I was able to bring the entire engine compartment on the Tripacer up to 80*F, as measured by the oil temp guage, in 50 minutes on the clock. That ment my cylinders and everything under the cowl was ready for a safe start. If your battery is under the cowl, even better. If you know you need to add a quart of oil before flight and it's been setting in the hangar also, place it under the cowl somewhere (top of cylinders) and it will be warmed also during the heating process. I've even used the heater to preheat the oil for an oil change and had all 6 quarts of the replacement oil under the cowl and nice and warm for a fast pour. Refinements: For the health of the engine you don't want to cycle the temp in the engine compartment (hot, cold, hot, cold, etc.) but I suppose you could leave the heater in place on a low setting and keep the engine always warm. Another though I had but never bothered with was to plug the heater into a thermostat control located under the cowl and let the heater cycle and keep the temp constant under the cowl. It would be ready to fly when you get to the hangar. If you want or need a picture, e-mail me directly at flesner@midwest.net and I see about getting you one. Try it! You'll never go back to a heating pad or dipstick, at least at your home base. Larry Flesner ------------------------------ Message: 22 Date: Mon, 17 Jan 2005 09:54:22 -0600 From: larry flesner Subject: Re: KR> bad news from the DAR To: KRnet Message-ID: <3.0.6.32.20050117095422.0080fdd0@pop.midwest.net> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii" The problem I'm having is The local DAR closest to me don't want to >inspect my plane when I'm done..So why is he a DAR?????????????....Bob >_____________________________________________________________ Many of the DAR's now days are independent "licensed contractors" so to speak and are not federal employees. Many are licensed to only perform certain types of inspections and may not even be licensed to inspect "experimentals". Their price for inspecting your homebuilt can vary greatly also and is pretty much whatever they want to and can get away with charging. Most DAR's in an area know what other DAR's in the area charge and will set their price accordingly. This area seems to have an average price of $500. I lucked out and had a DAR from another area stop by the airport on his way home from Oshkosh and agreed to inspect my KR for $150. Being out of the area he had to clear the inspection with his FSDO and my FSDO and was given a one-day date to come into the area and do the inspection. He inspected two airplanes while here. He was happy and we were happy, having saved about $700 between the two of us. Builders in other areas have had the good luck to have FSDO employees inspect their airplane for no charge. Your only option is to do some legwork and see what you can come up with in your area. Good luck....... Larry Flesner ------------------------------ _______________________________________________ See KRnet list details at http://www.krnet.org/instructions.html End of KRnet Digest, Vol 347, Issue 24 ************************************** ================================== ABC Amber Outlook Converter v4.20 Trial version ==================================