From: krnet-bounces@mylist.net To: John Bouyea Subject: KRnet Digest, Vol 347, Issue 25 Date: 1/17/2005 7:47:00 PM Send KRnet mailing list submissions to krnet@mylist.net To subscribe or unsubscribe via the World Wide Web, visit http://mylist.net/listinfo/krnet or, via email, send a message with subject or body 'help' to krnet-request@mylist.net You can reach the person managing the list at krnet-owner@mylist.net When replying, please edit your Subject line so it is more specific than "Re: Contents of KRnet digest..." Today's Topics: 1. Re: engine preheat - long (Robert L. Stone) 2. Winter (Kevin Jarvis) 3. RE: Aviation oil, 50 weight (Doug Rupert) 4. RE: bad news from the DAR (Doug Rupert) 5. Re: bad news from the DAR (larry severson) 6. Re: bad news from the DAR (Boeing757mech1@aol.com) 7. Re: Posa carb (patrusso) 8. engine preheat - long (rhartwig11@juno.com) 9. Help For EAA Chapter Newsletter Editors (Ron Eason) 10. Free PDF Writer (Dean Cooper) 11. Re: Free PDF Writer (Ron Eason) 12. Re:looking for (Martha Crawford) 13. Crossmember at station "d" Spelling corrected. (Ron Smith) 14. RE: bad news from the DAR (Ron Freiberger) 15. it's not an important point - Repairman Certificate ?? (Dan Heath) 16. Condition Inspection (Colin & Bev Rainey) 17. prop diameter (Brian Kraut) 18. RE: it's not an important point - Repairman Certificate ?? (Brian Kraut) 19. Hegy prop tips (Brian Kraut) 20. Re: prop diameter (Mark Langford) 21. Re: Hegy prop tips (Randy Smith ) ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Message: 1 Date: Mon, 17 Jan 2005 10:08:00 -0600 From: "Robert L. Stone" Subject: Re: KR> engine preheat - long To: "KRnet" Message-ID: <003101c4fcae$b7ec1cf0$a624c944@yourat5qgaac3z> Content-Type: text/plain; format=flowed; charset="iso-8859-1"; reply-type=original Larry, Thanks much for the lengthly reply. I know you spent a lot of time at your key board to produce all of the valuable information that I just printed out. I am going to try to make an engine pre-heater as per your instructions because I agree with you, it's better than a dip stick. Bob Stone ----- Original Message ----- From: "larry flesner" To: "KRnet" Sent: Monday, January 17, 2005 9:54 AM Subject: KR> engine preheat - long >. My question is, does anyone know of a method of pre-heating the >engine prior to start. I have heard of a heated oil dip stick for >cars that are very popular in the northern states where the temps are >below zero in the winter, I am wondering if such a device is available >for aircraft????? >>Bob Stone, > > ++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++ > > The problem with heated dip sticks or the oil pan heat pad, as I see > it, is the heat is too concentrated to warm the entire engine as you > want and the heated pad can actually "cook" the oil if the pad is hot > enough. A much better solution is to warm the entire engine, not just > the oil. > > I've built several engine heaters that are really inexpensive, easy to > use, and safe. A friend of mine photographed me building one for his > C-170 and it was written up in the C-170 Club newsletter. > > The advantages are: > Safe - heat source well away from the engine. > Easy to use - just slide it under the airplane and back out > when you are finished. It is self-standing and > requires no hook-ups. > CHEAP - materials will cost you about $5 plus the cost of > a good quality 1500W ceramic heater, the kind that > is about 8" X 8" or so. > Easy to build - you can build it in an hour or less. > > It is easy enough to build that you should be able to assemble it from > the following discription. > > Go to your local building supplier and get one sheet ( 4' X 8' ) of > the foam insulation board with the foil cover on both sides. The 1/2" > or 5/8" thick is sufficent. You will need approx 6' of the 8' length > so try to buy a damaged piece if they have one for about half price. > Even an undamaged piece should sell for approx $5. If you don't > already have one, pick up a good quality ceramic heater with a fan, > the small square kind that are usually rated for 1500 watts. They > should sell for about $25. Mine has hi/low heat settings and tip-over > shutoff switch. > > Measure the distance from the hangar floor to the bottom side of the > opening at the rear of your cowl and the outside dimention of the > heater. A slight modification on the top end of the heater tube may > be in order, depending on the cowl opening.You are now ready to start > construction. > > Basiclly, what you are going to do is construct a square heating tube, > the outside dimention of your heater, in the form of an L. The heater > should just slip in one end and the other sets under the cowl opening. > You construct it from flat panels cut from the foam board and tape it > together with "duct tape" or the foil tape used for duct work. Either > one will work. > > The horizontal run of the duct should be approx 24" long to keep the > heat source well away from the engine. The vertical run is the > distance measured earlier. Draw the two side pieces of the L and then > the other panels needed to finished the duct on the board and cut with > a sharpe knife. Instead of a full 90 degee corner in the duct, I made > mine with a couple of 45 degree bends to better help the airflow. > Just draw the side pieces the way you want the shape to be. When > finished, the heater should just slip inside the duct. > > As for modifing the top end, the C-170 had a gascolator centered in > the opening of the bottom of the cowl so I built a small deflector in > the top to keep the hot air from hitting the gascolator directly. > Modify for your needs depending on the cowl opening size or shape. > > To use, just slide the duct under the airplane beneath the cowl > opening and plug in the heater. I usually place a blanket over the > cowl and cover the air inlet holes in the front to contain the heat. > There is VERY LITTLE heat loss in the duct so you get the full benifit > of the 1500W's in the engine compartment. > > On one occassion when the temp in the hangar was 30*F, I was able to > bring the entire engine compartment on the Tripacer up to 80*F, as > measured by the oil temp guage, in 50 minutes on the clock. That ment > my cylinders and everything under the cowl was ready for a safe start. > If your battery is under the cowl, even better. If you know you need > to add a quart of oil before flight and it's been setting in the > hangar also, place it under the cowl somewhere (top of cylinders) and > it will be warmed also during the heating process. I've even used the > heater to preheat the oil for an oil change and had all 6 quarts of > the replacement oil under the cowl and nice and warm for a > fast pour. > > Refinements: For the health of the engine you don't want to cycle the > temp in the engine compartment (hot, cold, hot, cold, etc.) but I > suppose you could leave the heater in place on a low setting and keep > the engine always warm. Another though I had but never bothered with > was to plug the heater into a thermostat control located under the > cowl and let the heater cycle and keep the temp constant under the > cowl. It would be ready to fly when you get to the hangar. > > > If you want or need a picture, e-mail me directly at > > flesner@midwest.net > > and I see about getting you one. > > Try it! You'll never go back to a heating pad or dipstick, at least > at your home base. > > Larry Flesner > > > > _______________________________________ > Search the KRnet Archives at http://www.maddyhome.com/krsrch/index.jsp > to UNsubscribe from KRnet, send a message to KRnet-leave@mylist.net > please see other KRnet info at http://www.krnet.org/info.html > ------------------------------ Message: 2 Date: Mon, 17 Jan 2005 11:11:30 -0500 From: Kevin Jarvis Subject: KR> Winter To: krnet@mylist.net Message-ID: <41EBE3B2.6090905@comcast.net> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1; format=flowed Check this company out. They have been around for years. They have engine warmers and cowl blankets. http://www.tanisaircraft.com/index.html You can also build a heater using a kerosene fired space heater, the kind that look like this one: http://www.reddyheat.com/ get the local HVAC shop to build you a " Y " for the end of the heater and then install 2 scat tubes to stick into the cowl or up from the bottom or other opening. You can melt parts if you are not careful, so you will have to stay with this setup. And the heaters don't have to be 70k btu to heat your engine, you can use smaller ones that are less output and less expensive. With enough scat you can heat the engine and the cockpit at the same time. ------------------------------ Message: 3 Date: Mon, 17 Jan 2005 11:38:23 -0500 From: "Doug Rupert" Subject: RE: KR> Aviation oil, 50 weight To: "'KRnet'" Message-ID: <000501c4fcb3$098875a0$a204e440@office> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="windows-1250" Larry this one doesn't apply to you because I know you are powered by an aircraft engine and therefore already know what oil should be used in it. I've watched this oil thread and seen all the varying replies. Some have been close but others not so close. I worked for Shell for years and can state categorically that oil is oil, unless we get into synthetics. The only difference is the additives that go or don't go into that oil. Oil itself never wears out, it only gets dirty and loses it's additives. That is why they now recycle oil. They run it thru screens layered with dyamacious earth to clean it then put the additives back in and away it goes for another cycle of duty. Each and every builder will have their own preference to automotive engine oils and they will work out just fine as long as the following items are strictly adhered to. Changes and inspection are thorough and frequent and you NEVER run aviation fuel. Why aviation fuel? Now we get into the main reason, and there are several, why aviation engines run aviation oils. Aviation fuels have lead in it and therefore require additives to remove lead deposits from internal engine components, auto fuel does not have lead. Second, aviation engines usually are subjected to extended sitting between use and therefore must have additives to promote the oil staying on critical surfaces during these times. Thirdly, aviation engines are subjected to very severe temperature changes in a very short period of time. Larry just proved that with his recent excursion. Say it's 10 deg on the ramp, now figure out the OAT at 10,000 feet and don't forget to add in the windchill. Now you get the idea. Yeh I know your oil temp doesn't vary much but that engine block temperature sure does. Anyone that has a hard time with that one go stick your tongue on a steel fence post at 10 degrees and get back to me. Lastly, the aforementioned temperature changes can and often do create condensation inside the engine after shutdown so the oil must have additives to disperse water from that condensation. Well that's it folks aviation oil versus auto oil. On a personal note, I ran 20w50 Valvoline in my racing Harley powered by straight 100LL aviation fuel to know ill effect. BTW Harley Davidson engine oil is in fact 20w50 Aeroshell. So now the choice is back where it began, up to the individual builder and their particular operating environments and preferences. Doug Rupert Simcoe Ontario. -- No virus found in this outgoing message. Checked by AVG Anti-Virus. Version: 7.0.296 / Virus Database: 265.6.11 - Release Date: 1/12/2005 ------------------------------ Message: 4 Date: Mon, 17 Jan 2005 11:38:23 -0500 From: "Doug Rupert" Subject: RE: KR> bad news from the DAR To: "'KRnet'" Message-ID: <000601c4fcb3$0b4ce1f0$a204e440@office> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="windows-1250" Only thing I can come up with would be to unregister. Tear down update to new airfoil front and back, stretch and register again. Theoretically at least this would have to get you back in the 51% range again. Doug Rupert -- No virus found in this outgoing message. Checked by AVG Anti-Virus. Version: 7.0.296 / Virus Database: 265.6.11 - Release Date: 1/12/2005 ------------------------------ Message: 5 Date: Mon, 17 Jan 2005 08:13:17 -0800 From: larry severson Subject: Re: KR> bad news from the DAR To: KRnet Message-ID: <5.2.1.1.0.20050117080335.020f3548@pop-server.socal.rr.com> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"; format=flowed >I have had an unpleasant conversation with my local DAR. He stated that >once an amateur plane is registered, that builder is the only person that >can have the repairman's certificate for that plane. A plane can be registered the day the plans are bought. Stupid, because then the taxes start coming. Registration does not imply that any actual work was done. However, applying for certification as an amateur built requires providing proof that the plane was "amateur built". To get the ability to do annuals requires proof that you were involved with 51% of the construction, not did all of the work, according to the FAA table. Stating that you were falsely incurs a $10,000 fine. Depending on how much work you can document on the plane during the time that your father owned the plane, providing your father's ownership of the plane incorporated the missing portion of the 51%, you might be able to legally get the mechanics cert. Larry Severson Fountain Valley, CA 92708 (714) 968-9852 larry2@socal.rr.com ------------------------------ Message: 6 Date: Mon, 17 Jan 2005 12:24:55 EST From: Boeing757mech1@aol.com Subject: Re: KR> bad news from the DAR To: krnet@mylist.net Message-ID: <78.6aa469e0.2f1d4ee7@aol.com> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII" In a message dated 1/17/2005 2:53:10 A.M. Pacific Standard Time, DanRH@AllTel.net writes: I believe that there may be some confusion about Registration and Certification as it applies to this issue. I remember right when Lee came over to my house to talk KR's, he said that the aircraft had flown in the past. Therefor, it has been Registered and Certified. Chris Theroux Gilbert, Az ------------------------------ Message: 7 Date: Mon, 17 Jan 2005 13:00:11 -0500 From: "patrusso" Subject: Re: KR> Posa carb To: "KRnet" Message-ID: <002c01c4fcbe$63937350$61a772d8@patrusso> Content-Type: text/plain; format=flowed; charset="iso-8859-1"; reply-type=original Orm,...my new engine is an 1835 VW, less power than my type 4 but I'm okay with that. Given the same accessories how much weight difference is there between them? What carb are you presently using? Pat ----- Original Message ----- From: "Orma" To: "KRnet" Sent: Monday, January 17, 2005 9:09 AM Subject: Re: KR> Posa carb > Hello Pat > I ran the posa and it performed well at top end and was difficult to > dial > in > a happy medium for the rest of the range. I had a Zenith and sold it > before > flying with it. Others like it. With the posa, no fuel pump is needed. > Carb heat is always a good recommendation. As for the 29, I don't have a > clue. See my alert Posa page on my web site. > > Orma > Southfield, MI > N110LR celebrating 20 years > Flying, flying and more flying http://www.kr-2.aviation-mechanics.com/ > > > > _______________________________________ > Search the KRnet Archives at http://www.maddyhome.com/krsrch/index.jsp > to UNsubscribe from KRnet, send a message to KRnet-leave@mylist.net > please see other KRnet info at http://www.krnet.org/info.html ------------------------------ Message: 8 Date: Mon, 17 Jan 2005 14:10:36 -0600 From: rhartwig11@juno.com Subject: KR> engine preheat - long To: krnet@mylist.net Message-ID: <20050117.141037.2592.0.rhartwig11@juno.com> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii If you build an electric or fuel fired engine heater that sits below the engine, make sure that engine fluids cannot drip down the plenum into the heater. A few planes (and hangars) have been lost this way up here in the cold north. Dick Hartwig Waunakee, WI rhartwig11@juno.com ------------------------------ Message: 9 Date: Mon, 17 Jan 2005 16:50:28 -0600 From: "Ron Eason" Subject: KR> Help For EAA Chapter Newsletter Editors To: "KRnet" Message-ID: <006e01c4fce6$f144c4b0$6601a8c0@CADENGINEERING> Content-Type: text/plain; format=flowed; charset="iso-8859-1"; reply-type=original FYI for those who want a PDF writer. KRron Sent: Tuesday, January 04, 2005 4:23 PM Subject: FW: Help For EAA Chapter Newsletter Editors > > > -----Original Message----- > From: Troy Toelle [mailto:ttoelle@eaa.org] > Sent: Tuesday, November 23, 2004 1:16 PM > Subject: Help For EAA Chapter Newsletter Editors > > > Are you looking for some more articles for your Chapter Newsletter? Check > out the Aircraft Building Articles in the Homebuilders Headquarters area > of > the EAA Web Site: > http://members.eaa.org/home/homebuilders/building/list.html > Feel free to use these articles in your Chapter Newsletters. You can > simply > copy and paste these articles into your Chapter Newsletter, we do ask that > you include the author's info as well as the publication that it was > originally posted in. > > More help... > > Paul Ray, Newsletter Editor, EAA Chapter 768 (Apple Valley, CA), has > shared > some info about a useful tool that may be of interest to you (see below). > > Creating Electronic Newsletters using the Adobe PDF Format > > Attention all Chapter Newsletter Editors! If you use a text editor > (WordPad), Word, PowerPoint, or Excel to create your newsletter, a PDF > file > can be created to send an electronic version to your membership. PDF > writers > can be expensive but there is a free version that I've been using for over > one year without any problems. > > Actually, there is no such thing as "free software" but if you're willing > to > put up with a pop-up advertisement when creating a PDF file, then you will > save a lot of money using this free product. If you want to eliminate the > pop-up ads, paying a one-time fee of $9.95 to the authors will get you a > special "key" to turn off all advertising. > > Why use PDF files? An informal poll during the Chapter Newsletter Editor > Forum during AirVenture showed that most Chapter Newsletter Editors want > to > send their newsletter electronically as an attachment to email. If done > correctly it saves a lot of time (printing copies) and expense (paper and > postage). If a portable format is used then any recipient can read and/or > print copies without any special or expensive software. Adobe designed the > PDF - Portable Data Format - for anyone to quickly and easily print > documents. All PDF files can be read and printed on PCs or Macs using free > software from Adobe. > > Some Editors use Microsoft Word but I have found this to be problematic. > If > the recipient does not have Microsoft Word the document cannot be opened > for > reading and printing. If the recipient does have Word but does not have > the > exact same fonts used in the newsletter, the received document may look > very > different than the original created by the Editor. The reason is simple: > the > font information is stored with the DOC file and depends on the receiving > PC > or Mac to have the same fonts (and a copy of Microsoft Word). When a PDF > file is generated, the complete font information along with margins, > graphics, and pictures, are included in the PDF file so the receiving PC > or > Mac requires nothing except the PDF reader. And, it's free from Adobe! > > The free PDF writer is available from www.pdf995.com. It requires a PC > running Windows 95, 98, 2000, ME, NT 4.0, or XP. The steps to download and > install the free version of the PDF writer are very simple and require two > major steps - download the two required files and save them on your > Desktop, > and install the software. Each section, below, covers these two major > steps. > For those familiar with accessing the Internet, downloading, saving, and > installing files, you can skip all the steps, below, and go www.pdf995.com > and follow the directions. > > Downloading the free PDF writer: > > 1. After booting up your PC use a modem or broadband device and connect to > the Internet. > 2. Using Explorer or Netscape enter the URL address: > http://www.pdf995.com. > If Explorer or Netscape is not obvious on the desktop (main PC screen) > click > on Start and then look at the Programs list. Click on the web browser your > PC has installed. > 3. There are three products offered for download. Click on Download Now at > the end of the Pdf995 paragraph. This is the first paragraph. > 4. The new screen will display several boxes with options. In the top box > labeled Pdf995 2-Step click on Download after Pdf995 Printer Driver. This > creates a communication link between your system and the PDF995 web site > to > download and save a file on your PC. This file is the printer driver. > > What is a printer driver? Simply stated a printer driver is the software > contained in your PC that "talks" to your printer and converts the > information on the screen into the various electronic commands that cause > ink to appear on paper showing exactly what is on your screen. PDF files > are > created by "printing" your document to a file that ends in the PDF file > name > (i.e., OctoberNewsletter.PDF) instead of actually printing on your > printer. > In order for the PDF software to act as a "virtual printer" a special > printer driver is needed. > 5. The next box that will pop up asks if you want to Open, Save, Cancel, > or > More Info. Click on Save and another window will appear that is the > default > location of where this file will be saved. This first line of this box is > the location and should say "Save in Desktop". If it says "Desktop" go > ahead > with Step 6. If not, click on the pull-down (down arrow) to the right of > "Save in", and then click on Desktop. > 6. The default name at the bottom of the window is pdf995s.exe. Click Save > and the file will be downloaded and saved on your Desktop. This will take > some time - this file is 1.2 mega (million) bytes long. When the file > download is complete a new Window will open asking if you want to Open, > Open > Folder, or Close. Click on Close. > 7. In the browser window in the top box labeled Pdf995 2-Step click on > Download to the right of Free Converter. This creates a communication link > between your system and the PDF995 web site to download and save a file on > your PC. This file is the actual software that will convert your Doc file > into a PDF file. > 8. The next box that will pop up asks if you want to Open, Save, Cancel, > or > More Info. Click on Save and another window will appear that is the > default > location of where this file will be saved. This first line of this box is > the location and should say "Save in Desktop". If it says "Desktop" go > ahead > with Step 9. If not, click on the pull-down (down arrow) to the right of > "Save in", and then click on Desktop. > 9. The default name at the bottom of the window is ps2pdf995.exe. Click > Save > and the file will be downloaded and saved on your Desktop. This will take > some time - this file is 3.1 mega (million) bytes long. When the file > download is complete a new Window will open asking if you want to Open, > Open > Folder, or Close. Click on Close. > > Installing the free PDF writer: > > 1. Close your browser (Explorer or Netscape). Close or minimize all other > running applications so that your Desktop is shown on the screen. You will > have two new files on your Desktop - pdf99s.exe and ps2pdf995.exe. > 2. Double-click on pdf995s.exe and it will open and install. If you see a > warning that the Converter must be installed, click on OK. > 3. When the install of pdf995s.exe is complete, double-click on > ps2pdf995.exe and this will be installed. > > Testing the free PDF writer: > > Open a Word or WordPad window (by double-clicking on Microsoft Word or > WordPad icon) and load a document or type a brief text message. Click on > the > File drop-down menu and click on Print. The Printer box will have a Name > box > with a down arrow. Click on the arrow to see the list of available > printers. > There will be a new entry - PDF995. Click on this and a new window will > open > asking you for a name and location to save the PDF file. The file will be > converted to a PDF file and written to the disk in the location you > specified in this window. An advertisement will also appear using Explorer > or Netscape (depending on which Internet browser is your default). You can > close this window without affecting the function of the PDF writer. > > Did it work? > > If you have a copy of Adobe Acrobat (the PDF reader), click on this to > open > the PDF Reader, in the File pull-down menu click on Open, and go to the > file > you saved in the previous step. You should see your original document - > font, margins, color(s), graphics, pictures, etc., in Adobe Acrobat. > > If you don't have a copy of Adobe Acrobat it is available for free from > www.adobe.com. The link for this is: > http://www.adobe.com/support/downloads/main.html In the section on > Readers, > click on the system you have (Macintosh, Windows, etc.) and follow the > directions. > > Last step: > > If the PDF file you saved was your newsletter it is now ready to attach to > an email and send to your Chapter membership list. > > Using PDF files is an easy and fast way to send out your newsletter. > Assuming everyone already has a PC and/or Mac, the only expense is one > copy > of Microsoft Word for the editor; everyone else can use free software to > read and/or print the newsletter. > > Paul Ray is the Newsletter Editor for EAA Chapter 768 in Apple Valley CA. > He > can be reached at pd.ray@verizon.net > > > > ------------------------------ Message: 10 Date: Mon, 17 Jan 2005 18:14:00 -0500 From: "Dean Cooper" Subject: KR> Free PDF Writer To: "KRnet" Message-ID: <025d01c4fcea$3ae0e2e0$0502a8c0@office> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Ron wrote: > FYI for those who want a PDF writer. Ron, et al: If you want one without the pop-ups, check this one out. It downloads to your PC and is not connected to a website. It installs as a printer option, so you just "print" the document to the "CutePDF printer" and it prompts you where to save it. Very easy to use. I've been using it for over a year with no problems, pop-ups, etc. Hope it helps. http://www.cutepdf.com/Products/CutePDF/writer.asp Dean Cooper Jacksonville, FL Email me at dean_cooper@bellsouth.net See my KR project at www.geocities.com/djramccoop1/KR2_Home.html ------------------------------ Message: 11 Date: Mon, 17 Jan 2005 17:19:42 -0600 From: "Ron Eason" Subject: Re: KR> Free PDF Writer To: "KRnet" Message-ID: <000701c4fceb$06fe9c00$6601a8c0@CADENGINEERING> Content-Type: text/plain; format=flowed; charset="iso-8859-1"; reply-type=original Thanks, Ron ----- Original Message ----- From: "Dean Cooper" To: "KRnet" Sent: Monday, January 17, 2005 5:14 PM Subject: KR> Free PDF Writer > Ron wrote: >> FYI for those who want a PDF writer. > > > Ron, et al: > > If you want one without the pop-ups, check this one out. It downloads to > your PC and is not connected to a website. It installs as a printer > option, > so you just "print" the document to the "CutePDF printer" and it prompts > you > where to save it. Very easy to use. I've been using it for over a year > with no problems, pop-ups, etc. Hope it helps. > > http://www.cutepdf.com/Products/CutePDF/writer.asp > > > Dean Cooper > Jacksonville, FL > Email me at dean_cooper@bellsouth.net > See my KR project at www.geocities.com/djramccoop1/KR2_Home.html > > > > > _______________________________________ > Search the KRnet Archives at http://www.maddyhome.com/krsrch/index.jsp > to UNsubscribe from KRnet, send a message to KRnet-leave@mylist.net > please see other KRnet info at http://www.krnet.org/info.html > > ------------------------------ Message: 12 Date: Mon, 17 Jan 2005 06:08:56 -0500 From: Martha Crawford Subject: KR> Re:looking for To: KRnet Message-ID: <2E38D24B-6878-11D9-877F-000A95D27864@simerson.net> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=US-ASCII; format=flowed hi kr fans Is steve lemke still a part of the kr family. if so what is his Email address Thanks Keith crawford Martha@simerson.net ------------------------------ Message: 13 Date: Mon, 17 Jan 2005 16:18:54 -0800 (PST) From: Ron Smith Subject: KR> Crossmember at station "d" Spelling corrected. To: krnet@mylist.net Message-ID: <20050118001854.56168.qmail@web81709.mail.yahoo.com> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii I am building a KR2S. As you know, you receive KR2plans, and KR2s supplements, when you order KR2Splans. The Kr2 plans call for a crossmember atstation "D",( bottom of fuselage). The KR2S drawing"A", does not show a crossmember here. Is theresupposed to be one there? I don't see how the "floor"would have much support without one. I don't know what happend to the first message. My spell checkermust have went haywire. Ron Smith,Kr2S 99% completed boat stage, 20% to go,nagging splinters stuck in my brain,Cypress Ca.memercedesmannahoo.com ------------------------------ Message: 14 Date: Mon, 17 Jan 2005 20:26:55 -0500 From: "Ron Freiberger" Subject: RE: KR> bad news from the DAR To: "'KRnet'" Message-ID: <000301c4fcfc$d2305ec0$8f722241@Disorganized> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii" You guys are missing an important part here. A good A&E will help you a lot, and point out some things you might want to ignore, but shouldn't. I've done it both ways, and it's not an important point. Ron Freiberger mail to rfreiberger at swfla.rr.com <- substitute an @ sign ;o) -----Original Message----- From: krnet-bounces@mylist.net [mailto:krnet-bounces@mylist.net] On Behalf Of larry severson Sent: Monday, January 17, 2005 11:13 AM To: KRnet Subject: Re: KR> bad news from the DAR >I have had an unpleasant conversation with my local DAR. He stated that >once an amateur plane is registered, that builder is the only person that >can have the repairman's certificate for that plane. A plane can be registered the day the plans are bought. Stupid, because then the taxes start coming. Registration does not imply that any actual work was done. ------------------------------ Message: 15 Date: Mon, 17 Jan 2005 20:30:40 -0500 (Eastern Standard Time) From: "Dan Heath" Subject: KR> it's not an important point - Repairman Certificate ?? To: "krnet@mylist.net" Message-ID: <41EC66C0.000010.03036@DANHOMECOMPUTER> Content-Type: Text/Plain; charset="iso-8859-1" If you can find one who will do it and if you can afford it. See N64KR at http://KR-Builder.org - Then click on the pics There is a time for building and a time for FLYING and the time for building has expired. Daniel R. Heath - Columbia, SC See you in Mt. Vernon - 2005 - KR Gathering ------------------------------ Message: 16 Date: Mon, 17 Jan 2005 20:52:33 -0500 From: "Colin & Bev Rainey" Subject: KR> Condition Inspection To: Message-ID: <004f01c4fd00$6101ed00$9c402141@RaineyDay> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Schedule it early and do it when you choose. Don't wait until the time is past. Fly to someone like Orma, before it is due so time for corrections is possible, have it done. The time table doesn't start counting until the pink slip is issued. Big deal you give up a month or several weeks. It happened when you planned it not when the date arrived, kinda like an oil change.... Colin & Beverly Rainey Apex Lending, Inc. www.eloan2004cr.com crainey@apexlending.com 407-323-6960 ------------------------------ Message: 17 Date: Mon, 17 Jan 2005 22:15:20 -0500 From: "Brian Kraut" Subject: KR> prop diameter To: "KRnet" Message-ID: Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii" I am about to order a set of Grove gear and I wanted to double check my prop clearance first. What prop diameters are people using with the Corvair? I don't need an exact prop yet, I am just wondering if it is conveivable that I would want to run anything bigger than a 54" diameter prop. Also, if anyone has their prop clearance with the Grove one piece gear and a tailwheel could you tell me your prop diameter, if the gear is the standard dimensions, and what wheels and tires it was measured with. Also, if anyone would happen to have a set of Grove or Rand one piece spring gear for sale contact me offline at brian@engalt.com. Brian Kraut Engineering Alternatives, Inc. www.engalt.com ------------------------------ Message: 18 Date: Mon, 17 Jan 2005 22:15:25 -0500 From: "Brian Kraut" Subject: RE: KR> it's not an important point - Repairman Certificate ?? To: "KRnet" Message-ID: Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii" By the way, if anyone within flying distance of Jacksonville, FL needs a condition inspection on a KR let me know. I don't make it a habit of doing inspections on other people's planes, but if a fellow KR owner needed one and is willing to help I would make an exception. Brian Kraut Engineering Alternatives, Inc. www.engalt.com -----Original Message----- From: krnet-bounces@mylist.net [mailto:krnet-bounces@mylist.net]On Behalf Of Dan Heath Sent: Monday, January 17, 2005 8:31 PM To: krnet@mylist.net Subject: KR> it's not an important point - Repairman Certificate ?? If you can find one who will do it and if you can afford it. See N64KR at http://KR-Builder.org - Then click on the pics There is a time for building and a time for FLYING and the time for building has expired. Daniel R. Heath - Columbia, SC See you in Mt. Vernon - 2005 - KR Gathering _______________________________________ Search the KRnet Archives at http://www.maddyhome.com/krsrch/index.jsp to UNsubscribe from KRnet, send a message to KRnet-leave@mylist.net please see other KRnet info at http://www.krnet.org/info.html ------------------------------ Message: 19 Date: Mon, 17 Jan 2005 22:18:43 -0500 From: "Brian Kraut" Subject: KR> Hegy prop tips To: "KRnet" Message-ID: Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii" The KR I got a few weeks ago has a Hegy prop on it with a brass leading edge. All of the metal leading edges I have seen on other props were inlaid into the wood. This leading edge is over the wood so it has about a 1/16" step down at the back of the leading edge where it wraps over the wood. The varnish goes over the wood and the brass. Is this normal for a Hegy prop or did someone add this leading edge as an afterthought? Brian Kraut Engineering Alternatives, Inc. www.engalt.com ------------------------------ Message: 20 Date: Mon, 17 Jan 2005 21:34:00 -0600 From: "Mark Langford" Subject: Re: KR> prop diameter To: "KRnet" Message-ID: <207301c4fd0e$8d1c5430$1202a8c0@1700xp> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Brian Kraut wrote: > I am about to order a set of Grove gear and I wanted to double check my prop > clearance first. What prop diameters are people using with the Corvair? I don't have Grove gear (just standard Diehl taildragger), but my prop is 52.5" in diameter and I have right at 7.75" with properly inflated tires and full fuel tanks, no pilot or passengers, airplane level. I'm not sure there's anybody with Grove gear running a Corvair yet, but somebody's welcome to prove me wrong. Just for reference sake, the lowest part of my stub wing's airfoil is 17" off the floor (17.25" to the lowest part of the main spar). My thrust line is 2.375" below the top of the top longerons. Wheels are Clevelands (not that it matters) with Lamb 11 x 4.00-5 tires. Maybe with a little extrapolation... Mark Langford, Huntsville, Alabama see KR2S project N56ML at http://home.hiwaay.net/~langford email to N56ML "at" hiwaay.net -------------------------------------------------------------- ------------------------------ Message: 21 Date: Mon, 17 Jan 2005 21:46:47 -0600 From: "Randy Smith " Subject: Re: KR> Hegy prop tips To: "KRnet" Message-ID: <006c01c4fd10$56104f30$51ccb944@home> Content-Type: text/plain; format=flowed; charset="iso-8859-1"; reply-type=original I ran a couple of Haggy props a few years ago and never saw one with a metal edge. It was hard enough to get one from him that was even balanced. It seemed that he had a hard time getting the blades the same length. When my crank broke and the prop left the plane it was a Haggy prop. The tip started to come apart and before I could get the power off all H*** broke loose. ---- Original Message ----- From: "Brian Kraut" To: "KRnet" Sent: Monday, January 17, 2005 9:18 PM Subject: KR> Hegy prop tips > The KR I got a few weeks ago has a Hegy prop on it with a brass leading > edge. All of the metal leading edges I have seen on other props were > inlaid > into the wood. This leading edge is over the wood so it has about a 1/16" > step down at the back of the leading edge where it wraps over the wood. > The > varnish goes over the wood and the brass. Is this normal for a Hegy prop > or > did someone add this leading edge as an afterthought? > > Brian Kraut > Engineering Alternatives, Inc. > www.engalt.com > > > _______________________________________ > Search the KRnet Archives at http://www.maddyhome.com/krsrch/index.jsp > to UNsubscribe from KRnet, send a message to KRnet-leave@mylist.net > please see other KRnet info at http://www.krnet.org/info.html > ------------------------------ _______________________________________________ See KRnet list details at http://www.krnet.org/instructions.html End of KRnet Digest, Vol 347, Issue 25 ************************************** ================================== ABC Amber Outlook Converter v4.20 Trial version ==================================